Mules are in

I'm new to the Spyderco forum, so bear with me. I just recieved my Team Mule and am quite pleased. I was looking for a good quality small fixed blade knife blank that was not stainless steel (I live in a dry climate, so rust is not an issue). I accidentally stumbled upon the Team Mule and realized it was just what I wanted! This thing is razor sharp! Anyway, I am trying to figure out how to do the handles on it.

Raythebigfoot, what size Corby rivets did you use? Did they fit snug in the holes in the tang? If not, did you do anything different to make sure the handles don't move (ie fill the holes with epoxy)? Any help is appreciated.
 
dl351 said:
I'm new to the Spyderco forum, so bear with me. I just recieved my Team Mule and am quite pleased. I was looking for a good quality small fixed blade knife blank that was not stainless steel (I live in a dry climate, so rust is not an issue). I accidentally stumbled upon the Team Mule and realized it was just what I wanted! This thing is razor sharp! Anyway, I am trying to figure out how to do the handles on it.

Raythebigfoot, what size Corby rivets did you use? Did they fit snug in the holes in the tang? If not, did you do anything different to make sure the handles don't move (ie fill the holes with epoxy)? Any help is appreciated.
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They are 5/16" corby's and yes I did use epoxy to put the handle on because they are quite smaller than the holes in the tang. The steps that I used were:

First, flattened the scales and angled and totally finished the front edges of the scales. Epoxied on the first scale and waited for it to set. Then I drill the holes for the smaller part of the corbys through that scale using the tang as a guide. Clamp the other scale on and drill the smaller holes using the tang and other scale as a guide. Then I drill the larger holes for the bolt heads set to a certain depth depending on the thickness of the scales. Then I dry fit it to make sure it fits then take it off and used epoxy, making sure to fill all of the holes in the tang before placing the scale on. Then tighten up the bolts good. After that dries for 24 hours I used a belt grinder to grind off the excess scale material and the excess bolt heads. Then shape and finish the handle mostly by hand and finish off with a few different compounds at the buffer.
 
Thanks a lot, raythebigfoot. That information will be very helpful. Oh, and I really like the way your Mule turned out.
 
That box elder burl is incredible work. So far it is the best Mule handle I have seen yet.
 
wow, very nice work Ray, that's where we see who is a professional here and who isn't! I particularly like how the box elder burl covers the hilt to the end, and the polished handle steel.
 
Mine arrived from NGK today. It's #69. I thought all the #d knives were sold through Spyderco...guess not.
 
JNewell said:
Mine arrived from NGK today. It's #69. I thought all the #d knives were sold through Spyderco...guess not.
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New Graham handles the collector club purchases for several people. They sell those models that the collector chooses not to take.
Lloyd
 
Thanks all!! Got quite a few handling jobs to do for other people now. Hopefully they will post the pix as well when I get them done!
 
raythebigfoot said:
Thanks all!! Got quite a few handling jobs to do for other people now. Hopefully they will post the pix as well when I get them done!
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Ya know we were all having fun with our cord wraps 'till you and yer box elder burl came along! I don't know about anyone else, but I'm feeling a serious case of scale envy coming on!

Seriously though, that is some very nice work. I'm waiting to see a few more with actual scales before I decide what I'm going to do with mine.
 
I have an excellent piece of figured Padauk that I'm looking forward to using for this project.
 
I was a bit bored today, and I decided I had to use the neon green bit of paracord I had, so I unwrapped the handle of my mule and did this one:

both sides alike (except for the ends):


spine view (I'm happy to have achieved to wrap it to the blade, for thumb comfort):
spinetm8.jpg


modified sheath (added eyelets/rivets and a simili-tactical tether):


I let a good length for the fob for not cutting the green paracord piece I have, since I will unwrap the handle again when I'll try to make micarta scales and it's my only piece of neon green paracord.

On the performance side, the steel performs nicely, but I don't find it as good as VG-10, S30V or ZDP-189 for sharpness, though I guess it's because I am not experienced enough at sharpening. I should try to sharpen it better.
[EDIT: Finally I tried to touch the edge with the brown stones of my sharpmaker, without using the whites or compound loaded leather, and wow, I won't sharpen it any other way now. Very efficient on paper, and shaves very nicely! Gotta try that with other steels too!]
I can't comment on edge retention since I use it for very light duty, cutting zip ties, a bit of food preparation (slicing bread, cucumbers, meat, etc...), and a bit of paper/cardboard cutting (envelopes, parcels, etc...)
 
I got my Mule a week ago and finally had a chance to put a handle on it. Not too bad considering it's my first attempt!

100_0068.jpg


100_0069.jpg


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That is a very nice handle job weedle. Very nice. Ray has mine now putting box elder handles on it similar to what he did on his. I'll post pics when I get it back. It should be a great looking very useful little knife.
 
Not a bad job, Weedle, but if you spend some more time contouring the handle and bring it up to a 320 grit finish, then oil it, you will be very glad you did.
 
Chiro75 said:
Not a bad job, Weedle, but if you spend some more time contouring the handle and bring it up to a 320 grit finish, then oil it, you will be very glad you did.
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what kind of oil do you put on micarta scales? (I'm interested too, since I'll follow Weedle and others in custom micarta scales, when I'll receive them)
 
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