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Munky's first Knives Plog
- Thread starter Munky88
- Start date
- Joined
- Jul 28, 2006
- Messages
- 3,953
Ohhh convex cutting edge.... was thinking you meant a full convex "grind" on the blade. 
Hmmm how about gluing some leather to a piece of scrap metal and using some huge grit sandpaper or old sanding belts to get it shaped? Tape off the finished areas of the knife and mark the edge with a sharpie marker and kinda like draw file the edge like that? I don't know much bout them fancy steels you using, I'm just an ole country boy. 
Hmmm how about gluing some leather to a piece of scrap metal and using some huge grit sandpaper or old sanding belts to get it shaped? Tape off the finished areas of the knife and mark the edge with a sharpie marker and kinda like draw file the edge like that? I don't know much bout them fancy steels you using, I'm just an ole country boy. Marilyn says thanks. She is the postal worker who brings the mail to out local post office.She also does the foil wraps.
I have to tell you, I'm uncomfortable doing grinding on someone else's blade. I'm a knife maker, but I'm sure not one of the greats and these are your first knives, so they should be your work as much as possible.
I think you'll find that if you wrap that file with good sandpaper, you'll be able to cut hard steel just fine. You already know about elbow grease.
I think the competition guys use mostly a flat grind and just the last little bit is convex.
If you want them back soft, let me know, and I'll just return them.
Rob!
Rob i think you miss-understood what i was asking, but understand you don't want touch somone else knives (regardless of the fact that any mistake you could make would just balance the knife out 
). I didn't want the blade to be ground, just the edge to be convexed sharpened with a slack belt on the last 1/8 or so.
I kind of assumed you would have had experience doing it. If you don't want to it looks like if i get some diamond rods for my sharp maker i can sharpen it, then use sandpaper and a mouse pad decently well.
Ah, one more thing. I've been looking around researching different hardness's of s30v, and it looks like I may way to be aiming for around 59rc to make it easier to sharpen/less prone to chipping given that its a bigger knife. but if you have experience otherwise thats certainly more valuable to me. Doesn't seem many people are using it for bigger knives, just a few by strider.
). I didn't want the blade to be ground, just the edge to be convexed sharpened with a slack belt on the last 1/8 or so. I kind of assumed you would have had experience doing it. If you don't want to it looks like if i get some diamond rods for my sharp maker i can sharpen it, then use sandpaper and a mouse pad decently well.
Ah, one more thing. I've been looking around researching different hardness's of s30v, and it looks like I may way to be aiming for around 59rc to make it easier to sharpen/less prone to chipping given that its a bigger knife. but if you have experience otherwise thats certainly more valuable to me. Doesn't seem many people are using it for bigger knives, just a few by strider.
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59 is just fine for S30V. Crucible says aim hardness is 58 - 61.
It gets it's edge holding more from the Vanadium carbides than from the hardness. You got it. 59! :thumbup:
By the way Crucible also states that it's higher transverse toughness makes it especially good for bigger blades.
As far as I can see, the only thing this steel doesn't do well is polish to mirror.
As for the edge, thank you for understanding. I have drilled pin holes for someone who forgot - and I've done a bit of deburring with permission to avoid stress points but edge geometry is just way to pesonal. I'd rather leave that to the maker.
Rob!
Crucible says aim hardness is 58 - 61.It gets it's edge holding more from the Vanadium carbides than from the hardness. You got it. 59! :thumbup:
By the way Crucible also states that it's higher transverse toughness makes it especially good for bigger blades.
As far as I can see, the only thing this steel doesn't do well is polish to mirror.
As for the edge, thank you for understanding. I have drilled pin holes for someone who forgot - and I've done a bit of deburring with permission to avoid stress points but edge geometry is just way to pesonal. I'd rather leave that to the maker.
Rob!
That's just what i mean, I would expect to see more of them. Theres just a few by stryder, a buck skinning knife, and the fixed ritter griptillian. I guess they're a little expensive to make production, and most custom makers use tool or high carbon steels. Granted it is not the toughest steel around if your planning on going out with a mind to baton through a rock.
I shall experiment. You don't have any A2 or 3v left do you?
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S30V does pose production problems with initial cost, extra belt and tool wear and difficulty in finishing.
As for toughness, S30V has no apologies to make. There are tougher, but you sacrifice other things such as corrosion resistance and edge holding. Do you want a knife or a crowbar? I know - the answer is YES. Also, be careful about toughness comparisons. They are complex numbers and things like Charpy C-notch is not necessarily apples to apples. (Transverse, Impact etc) What is published for one is often different than the other. I don't pretend to understand the differences
As for what's in stock, it's probably best to take that to email. We all learn so much here (some of it is correct) but I don't want to be selling stuff here. Gotta keep that separate.
Rob!
As for toughness, S30V has no apologies to make. There are tougher, but you sacrifice other things such as corrosion resistance and edge holding. Do you want a knife or a crowbar? I know - the answer is YES.
Also, be careful about toughness comparisons. They are complex numbers and things like Charpy C-notch is not necessarily apples to apples. (Transverse, Impact etc) What is published for one is often different than the other. I don't pretend to understand the differencesAs for what's in stock, it's probably best to take that to email. We all learn so much here (some of it is correct
) but I don't want to be selling stuff here. Gotta keep that separate.Rob!
I keep getting more and more excited.
I've gotta put all of these in my baby books now.
how do you store liquid nitrogen?
I've gotta put all of these in my baby books now.
how do you store liquid nitrogen?
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- Joined
- Jul 28, 2006
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- 3,953
Most of the makers I know buy the LN from a welding gas supplier and use a cow semen dewers (not sure how it's spelled.)
Right on Will. It came from a dairy operation that no longer used it. It's nice because it has a 3" neck - enough to get big blades in. A picnic cooler will hold 20 litres (~quarts) for about 24 hours. The dewar holds it for a month or more. Problem is that these days, it's about $80 a fill!! 
Blades came out good. S30V at RHC60
and the CPM 154 just a tad over RHC60.
They'll be in the mail - expedited post tomorrow morning my friend along with the other items. Thanks for letting us share this part of your adventure.
Rob and Marilyn
Blades came out good. S30V at RHC60
and the CPM 154 just a tad over RHC60.
They'll be in the mail - expedited post tomorrow morning my friend along with the other items. Thanks for letting us share this part of your adventure.
Rob and Marilyn
So I went to Rona today to get Epoxy for the handles, and a coping saw to cut them out. I remember reading slow setting epoxy was needed, but all i could find was fast setting 5 minutes, and a 60 minute marine epoxy which I got. Is this going to work OK? Todd I guess your getting a dive knife now.
and where do you guys buy paracord? I've check Canadian tire, Rona, and MEC which did have some cordage that could work but not the stuff with the nylon strands inside the casing.
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- Joined
- Jul 28, 2006
- Messages
- 3,953
Check with a store that sells camping gear or other outdoor stuff, in a pinch you could use some "utility" cord or tubing from a climbing store.