My complete? Survival kit (Pict heavy) please criticize

Very Impressive indeed. Looks like a lot of time put into this. I like that you put matches in the straws. Seems like a smart idea for lots of things. Maybe some rehydration salts in one or something. From messing around with them, they seem to be fairly bomb proof, especially the shorter ones.

First aid looks great too, although I'd add an irrigation syringe. Most of my wounds have been dirty, and nothing has worked better than irrigation to clean them out.
 
I'd agree that the three guns are probably a bit overkill. I'd take one meant for small game procurement and another meant for defense/hunting. There are a lot of ways to achieve that.

Since it's your bugout kit, you really will have to take into consideration that law enforcement will also be going 'full force'. You want to blend in and fall off the radar as much as possible. If Katrina tought us much, it's that They'll drop any thought of 'civil rights' and confiscate anything they like. Walk softly. The vest system is difficult for similar reasons, in that it makes you stand out.

I'd also reconsider the M1A as a main gun. If you were staying put (and were in a rural area) it would be fine, but that's a lot of steel to be hauling around. I'd say lots of old soldiers may be around that might agree.

Other than that, it seems like the items are well thought out.
 
Love the input everyone, and to answer a few questions.

I live about 70 miles north of Lake Tahoe

I dont always have "all those guns", when Im backpacking its just a .22mag for varmits

I dont really care about high profile, my bug out is going to be good old E&E in full camo
 
I'm still cracked up about the turd buffet thing about survival experts. Ain't nobody gonna claim the title of survival expert no more. Ain't nobody wanna be no "turd eetin' geek." :D
 
Great vest. I have the black version that I use as my Search and Rescue pack. I would be not too worried about standing out. In the law enforcement/SAR community vests are becoming very comman. The nice thing about this model is it was designed for SAR work and not an M-16. I ditched the GI style belt for a padded Blackhawk patrol belt. In addition to being way more comfortable it uses a buckle and adjustment system like on a standard pack. This makes adjusting the belt for different seasons and clothing combanations much easier.
A couple of suggestions. Lose the snake bit kit. That went out of practice a long time ago. Also I saw someone suggested surgical tubing for a tourniquet. Also something else that the medical community threw by the wayside.
I noticed you have a lot of items duplicated. That is good but you may want to consider triming some of it down. There are a few things I carry two of. Flashlights, knives and firestuff. I personally carry two types of tinder and two ways of making fire. I do carry a spare firesteel and tinder in a leg rig that has my large knife. I also carry a leatherman and a small fixed blade and folder.
The other thing I noticed is that some of the duplication is scattered around multiple pockets. I use each pocket for a specific purpose. I find it is easier to find/remember where everything is doing it this way. One for all my medical, one with all my fire and cooking, one for food like cliff bars and lifesavers, one for signalling devices, one for radio and GPS, one that is my "garage" ie odds and ends. The back section holds water, water filter, maps, shelter, and extra clothes. I also have an older GI butt pack that I use to carry extra food if I'm going to be out for 48 hrs or more. You should be able to find them at surplus sites/stores.
One other thing to consider. The Polar Pure is a great may to pufify water but just be aware that iodine does not kill cryptoseridiam (sp?). I would consider a high quality filtration system.
My 2 cents worth.
 
I like the vest. I carry a different type of vest concentrating on the Comm.’s part on me (Cell, GPS, Lights, Batteries, Water Purification, Ammo, Knife, and Handgun). I hunt in a different environment and place my other kit (Food, Clothing, Ropes, etc.) on a back pack. I do carry a small medical kit on my back pack and keep a larger one inside the car. I am a firm believer on the side arm. Especially for any unwanted four or two legged visitors. I would like to know if you are carrying more than one way of comm.’s (cell phone, two way radio, etc)? That would be the only thing that I would add to it.
 
I’ve been up to Serrias near Ebbetts pass many times. I will go out for a week at a time. It’s beautiful out there. You have a nice set up, but I would definitely ditch a few knives and carry more essential gear like a lightweight sleeping bag. The last time I went I took my SRK and RAT 3 with a Multi-tool. For most jobs these knives were perfect. I can see why you have the .40 we had three bear encounters the last time we were out there I normally carry my Springfield .44.
 
What IS the final word on the newer AR-7? I've heard that it's a turd. The M6s are no longer being produced as far as I know. Shame on both counts, the AR-7 is a great idea and so is the M6.

I'm going to get rid of my AR-7. I like the idea, but for the size and capability the M6 really shines, and that 410 is one of the best little bird getter out there. I can break it down into a pack as well.

Great post, Wade. What's the bolt gun you're packing in the first pic?

I'm a big fan of a good centerfire rifle, .22 pistol combo as well.
 
Don,
I know there will be someone post right after me to disagree, but it is a complete turd. Very cheaply made and the 4 that I have shot were all jam o matics. The Chipmunk, the small Henry single shot, and the best IMO, a tricked ruger 10/22 with a short, sleeved aluminum barrel, are all much, much, better. Chris

Can't really disagree - AR-7s are definitely jam-o-matics. But I've also found that cleaning the lead deposits on the feed ramp makes a world of difference (along with a choice of ammo).

But I still think they're the best survival gun out there simply because there isn't a lighter .22 rifle I can think of - and if there is, please let me know! :)
 
I'm going to get rid of my AR-7. I like the idea, but for the size and capability the M6 really shines, and that 410 is one of the best little bird getter out there. I can break it down into a pack as well.

A .410 slug is nothing to sneeze at, either. I know a lot of people down South have taken deer regularly with .22 long rifle, poaching, I know. It can be done and it's only for those that can shoot but I'd still rather have a .410 slug.
 
Can't really disagree - AR-7s are definitely jam-o-matics. But I've also found that cleaning the lead deposits on the feed ramp makes a world of difference (along with a choice of ammo).

But I still think they're the best survival gun out there simply because there isn't a lighter .22 rifle I can think of - and if there is, please let me know! :)

Not in a semi and not for the price, however, I would rather have a litle bit heavier rifle that works as a really light rifle that doesn't.

For more money a ruger can be built that blows the AR7 completely away. Chris

EDIT: A used marlin bolt gun with a polymer stock and the barrel cut down to just above the legal limit is a real good choice, light, short, accurate, dependable and cheap.
 
I wouldn't rely on something that is inherently unreliable for survival purposes. Hell, I don't like using unreliable firearms for ANY purposes. If it's a semi-automatic firearm, it should operate in a semi-automatic fashion with a little bit of care and good ammunition, if not, it's a half-assed bolt action as far as I'm concerned.

Ruger 10/22s are very accurate and incredibly reliable. They can take a an extreme amount of abuse. If you could get one rigged up with a folding stock that's solid and somewhat comfortable without getting into the "assault weapon" BS, I think that would be excellent.
 
. . .
ne other thing to consider. The Polar Pure is a great may to pufify water but just be aware that iodine does not kill cryptoseridiam (sp?). I would consider a high quality filtration system.
My 2 cents worth.

Cryptosporidium (AKA "crypto") is fairly oblivious to iodine and regular "chlorine" (NaOCl) and even resists Chlorine Dioxide ( http://www.pubmedcentral.nih.gov/articlerender.fcgi?artid=184422 ). It is sensitive to UV, heat and ultraviolate, but if you're on the move, a filter rated under 1 micron would seem to be a good idea.

And, yes, cyrpto is in California. For example: http://aem.asm.org/cgi/content/abstract/67/6/2840
 
Cryptosporidium (AKA "crypto") is fairly oblivious to iodine and regular "chlorine" (NaOCl) and even resists Chlorine Dioxide ( http://www.pubmedcentral.nih.gov/articlerender.fcgi?artid=184422 ). It is sensitive to UV, heat and ultraviolate, but if you're on the move, a filter rated under 1 micron would seem to be a good idea.

And, yes, cyrpto is in California. For example: http://aem.asm.org/cgi/content/abstract/67/6/2840

Are the Micropur MP-1 tablets any good?
 
Are the Micropur MP-1 tablets any good?

You are referring to a chlorine dioxide product.

"Good"? They do kill cyrpto cysts. In fact, as the linked study shows, even iodine and regular chlorine will eventually kill crypto. It depends on how much disinfecting chemical you use, how many cycts there are to kill, the temperature of the water, the levels of other organics present in the water to use up the chemical, and the time the cycts are exposed to the dusinfectant.

You cannot be sure of two of those without a lab. The conclusion of the study, and the CDC, is that ozone is the only sufficiently reliable disinfectant for "public health" purposes, and that assumes a certain % of sick people is OK. As to that: "90% effective" is OK if you're not the 10%; and down with crypto in a wilderness situation is far worse than the same in the city.

So far as I know, there's no practical way to treat with ozone while hoofin' it, so that leaves UV, heat, and filters. Filters (of the correct rating) work faster, at night, and without making light or smoke.

Sooooooooo, chlorine dioxide is "gooder" than nothing (so is expedient filtering with sand or a bandanna) -- but way below the level of certainty you get from a 1 micron filter or pasturizing.

You might also want to do a cost per quart calculation of the pills vs. an appropriate filter.

The pills are lighter (especially when you run out).
 
You are referring to a chlorine dioxide product.

"Good"? They do kill cyrpto cysts. In fact, as the linked study shows, even iodine and regular chlorine will eventually kill crypto. It depends on how much disinfecting chemical you use, how many cycts there are to kill, the temperature of the water, the levels of other organics present in the water to use up the chemical, and the time the cycts are exposed to the dusinfectant.

You cannot be sure of two of those without a lab. The conclusion of the study, and the CDC, is that ozone is the only sufficiently reliable disinfectant for "public health" purposes, and that assumes a certain % of sick people is OK. As to that: "90% effective" is OK if you're not the 10%; and down with crypto in a wilderness situation is far worse than the same in the city.

So far as I know, there's no practical way to treat with ozone while hoofin' it, so that leaves UV, heat, and filters. Filters (of the correct rating) work faster, at night, and without making light or smoke.

Sooooooooo, chlorine dioxide is "gooder" than nothing (so is expedient filtering with sand or a bandanna) -- but way below the level of certainty you get from a 1 micron filter or pasturizing.

You might also want to do a cost per quart calculation of the pills vs. an appropriate filter.

The pills are lighter (especially when you run out).


What about just boiling it? That should kill just about anything right?
 
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