Once again, awesome knife.
These are the tools I have, of course everybody has their own ideas as to what works, or little tricks to make life easier. you get the point.
needles, think I have the small size.
http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/home/department/Lacing/1192-030.aspx?feature=Product_13
adjustable stitch groover
http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/...-Lacing-Tools/8074-00.aspx?feature=Product_15
Overstitch wheel Makes the dimples so your holes are even
http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/...g-Lacing-Tools/8091-00.aspx?feature=Product_7
Diamond hole punch, one prong. I chuck this up in my drill press and use it as an arbor press with it turned off. I also modded mine by grinding the cutting edge taller to punch more layers of leather at once. Go to depot and get a decent double sided mallet with the plastic side and the hard rubber side. Not too heavy, and not too light. The plastic side will not mushroom the top of the chisel or your stamps like a regular hammer will. I did not see the need to spend the money on a rawhide mallet.
http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/home/department/Tools/Punches/8065-295.aspx?feature=Product_8
Waxed thread. this will get you started, but it is not a lot.
http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/...reads-Sinews/11207-003.aspx?feature=Product_4
When you decide that you are gonna make your own sheaths for every knife you can buy this. I had mentioned earlier 3 cord but I really meant 4 or 5 depending on how big the sheath is and what you are doing. This is unwaxed, no biggie to wax the pieces you need.
http://www.campbell-bosworth.com/catalog/product_info.php/cPath/6_71_73/products_id/1431
LEATHER!! I get a whole side from Wickett & Craig. Costs a lot up front but their prices are hard to beat sometimes. I get a whole side of standard grade harness in 9-11oz. Their grading seemed confusing at first, but after talking to them on the phone everything was peachy.
http://www.wickett-craig.com/pricing.html
Barge cement. Like I said I use contact cement from Depot but you can use this. Somebody said they changed their formula to make it more environmentally friendly but now it does not work as well. I dunno.
http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/...514-01.aspx?feature=Product_1&kw=barge+cement
Dye. I started off not having a clue and bought the Eco Flow stuff. EVERYBODY hates that stuff, it is difficult to work with. The sheaths I posted above I used Eco Flow and it indeed sucks to work with. I had to use a wet toothbrush to remove excess residue. Also how I stumbled upon my process for the two tone sunburst too. Lots of folks use the fiebings spirit dye. My advice here is before you put any of that stuff on your semi finished leather, practice on scrap -a lot- till you find out what is rock solid for you. I also put pure neatsfoot oil on the leather after the dye is dry.
http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/home/department/Liquids-N/21997-119.aspx?feature=Product_60
http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/home/department/Liquids-N/2100-114.aspx?feature=Product_80
Gum tragacanth. This you use on the edges of the leather so harden it up when you slick the edges. Makes it look real nice after you burnish and let it harden. Depending on how hard you burnish the edges you might have to touch em up with the dye again.
http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/...0-01.aspx?feature=Product_3&kw=gum+tragacanth
edge slicker. I got this, chucked it up in my lathe and recut the outside edge so it would work for me. any sort of hard plastic with no sharp edges will work though. Some folks use polished bone.
http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/...2-00.aspx?feature=Product_4&kw=gum+tragacanth
Finish. Here's another area where you have to experiment before you put it on your hard work. I have tried dipping the whole sheath in warm beeswax and mink oil -that sucked for me-, and now I airbrush resolene. For me it is hard to brush on without getting brush strokes showing in the finished product. I got satin shene but have not really worked with it yet. After thinking about it I got away from the dipping in wax cause if yer knife gets put away after being ridden hard the moisture has nowhere to go and is kept on the knife. At least if you are only using an outer coating the leather will absorb some of the moisture.
http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/search/searchresults/2270-127.aspx?feature=Product_1&kw=resolene
http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/...611-137.aspx?feature=Product_1&kw=satin+shene
Some tutorials. I have not looked at this stuff in a LONG time so I do not even remember what is here, I have all this stuff piled in a knifemaking folder with all sorts of info about EVERYTHING under the sun.
More tutorials
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=458285
http://knifenetwork.com/forum/showthread.php?t=46105 Braided sheath
Leather carving
http://www.onestopcandle.com/leather/carveinstr01.php
Criollo sheath
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=419261
Wow, that has to be the biggest thread I have ever posted! Oh, I forgot to add ALWAYS make a template out of paper or light cardboard first. Makes life easier. And use a welt!
. I know I''m not the first person to do this but if any people who are thinking about making a knife are reading this are curious what that's like. The feeling of doing that falls somewhere between putting together a 1000 piece jigsaw puzzle then ripping it apart the minute you finish. And bringing the hottest looking girl you've even seen back to your place and as you're rounding the bases you find out she's actually a man.
. Anyway I took some more pics, today was nice overcast day however there was a slight misting raid so forgive the water spots in some pics. I wanted to get some finalized pics up (minus the sheath of course). I need to get a better camera, this one has no way of shutting the flash off so even with a light box I don't think it will be useful. 
