My Frosts Mora Clipper Broke

G

grant4353

Joined
Aug 15, 2003
Messages
185
Yesterday I was gathering wood for my hogan and I was using my knife to pry bark and wood off, and the blade broke. I remember it was bending a lot. I"m not sure if I'll get the same one or not I like that one but I also want to try the one at www.ragweedforge.com the #1, with the wood handle. I don't think the grip is as good but I want to try it anyways they are cheap so I'll probably get the other one too sometime. I had a frosts laminated steel one but I sold it to my brother because I wasn't using it.
 
Which model was it ? The "triflex" 780, with black plastic handle and sheath ?

As for laminateds, the are hard to break, but bend (permanently) when you put any lateral stress on them. You can always hammer them back to true (or almost) of course, but I don't like that. Triflex, also being laminated, won't bend that way. Feels tougher to me, but it won't take the same edge nor hold it (maybe 90% of laminated or plain carbon steel).

Having tested all of them, I prefer the plain carbon steel ones. The #1's from KJ Eriksson are great. Ragnar from Ragweed Forge is a great guy to deal with, BTW. He sent me a whole box of knives to France in a swift. No BS.

Cheers,

David
 
and I was using my knife to pry bark and wood off, and the blade broke.
Click to expand...

Can you be more specific on what you were doing when the blade broke? Was this a plastic handle clipper, or a wooden #1?
 
It is the plastic one made by Frosts, red handle with black rubber over it. The blade snapped about an inch up the blade from the handle. I was cutting a log in half and was trying to pry some wood off, I had to diagnol cuts going down it and was trying to take the wood out that was in between it, if that makes any sense.
 
The guys from Frosts told me the 780 is the toughest of all. They recommended that one to me for the survival courses.

The 780 is the one with black plastic handle, black plastic sheath and triflex blade.

Cheers,

David
 
I don't know much about these things... SO someone please correct me if this is wrong.

I believe the red handle illustrates a carbon steel blade. Carbon steel blades are fairly brittle in nature (I'm pretty sure). Its possible your knife was hardened a little too much and as such was just a little more brittle than others of the same model. Its also possible that your knife had a small stress fracture in it as well.
 
do you know a site that sells the 780 triflex? Can it throw a spark like the carbon steel ones if hit hard against a rock? Thanks
 
Moine said:
The guys from Frosts told me the 780 is the toughest of all. They recommended that one to me for the survival courses.
Click to expand...



Hey David,


What is the difference between the Triflex and the regular laminated Frosts? What kind of steel is it?


Thanks.




- Frank
 
Cypher2001 said:
Carbon steel blades are fairly brittle in nature ...
Click to expand...

That depends on the type, I have specifically used carbon puukkos that were more very resistant to impacts and bending. Yes you can break them as they typically are thin and narrow, but they should take a decent flex before they break, at least 45, and more like 90 should be expected.

-Cliff
 
It is the plastic one made by Frosts, red handle with black rubber over it. The blade snapped about an inch up the blade from the handle.
Click to expand...

When you write snap, it makes me think the balde broke crisply and without warning.

This is unusual for that knife, as I have flexed Clipper and SWAK Mora knives quite a bit, when prying out knots for example.

I also use a clipper for a utility knife in my tool box, because it is cheap. It gets subjected to some fairly heavy use, and bends readily.
 
I take it we're taking about using a relatively thin knife for prying - a Swedish kniven. In a survival situation ("Survival Skills" forum), one could use one of these superb slicers to make a tool with which to pry.

As an alternative to a thin kniven, how about using a knife that is inherently stronger? There must be hundreds of models of knives that fit the "sharpened prybar" role better than a Swedish kniven. I even have puukko for example with diamond cross-sections of .197" - twice that of a Mora 2000, the prime example of Swedish kniven (.97"). My thinnest puukko, an IIsakii, is .123" thick (for comparison: Fallkniven S-1 = .194"; SOG Field Knife = .166"; "Ka-Bar" = .168"; Buck Strider Solution = .178"; Fallkniven A-1 = .234"). My granddad used to say, "Don't strain; get a bigger hammer." :)
 
I don't want this to detereorate like the last one did, but Grant, how about a slightly larger thicker blade like a Swamprat Howling Rat or Bandicoot? It would probably stand up better in a survival situation. I would hate to be in an actual situation and one of the tools I relied on to keep me alive got broken.
 
There is something to be said about knowing how far you can push your blade in given situations and chores, but in honest to GOD survival, using the right tool for the job only makes sense to me.
 
Eventually I'll get a better knife I just don't have much money right now but I'm gonna have more once I get a job this summer. The clipper is only $8 and pretty good for the price.
 
I was just at the swamp rat site reading about the knives they sound good, and good warrantee too. I couldn't find a picture of the sheaths though. I want to get a tracker knife sometime in the future though.
 
There a re several sheath makers that do sheaths for Swamp rat. Some are kydex and others are leather.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top