My new code 4 (sebenza killer)

The Whip said:
I'll offer my $.02 on this (though I hope that Jonslaught will also share his thoughts when he gets his new Code 4). For me, the Code 4 handles are slightly slicker than a Sebenza's but not as slick as a Leek's. If I had to draw a direct comparison for feel, it would be the old Spyderco models with Tufram handles. The Code 4 aluminum's anodizing offers a small amount of resistance to friction--better than you get with bare metal or a coating, not quite as good as you get with beadblasting, and not even close to that of G-10.

Even so, the Code 4's ergonomics go a long way toward making it secure in the hand. It really does feel solidly in place when you grip it. Would I use it for hunting or fishing? No. But its light weight and incredibly thin profile make it one extremely comfortable EDC folder. And it slides into and out of the pocket much easier than G-10-handled models.

-Steve
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I'll offer this beforehand, I have a Kershaw Dimension, which is said to have solid Ti handles. And the feeling I get with that is a tad gritty on the surface, which I can see being a tad grippier like the Sebenza, if their Ti has the same finish (doubtful). Not much of an offer lol.

Lol hunting. I think blood would seal the deal like a wet seal with a grip that'll slip causing you to flip trip bustin yo lip.

Should be able to share my thoughts Monday or Tuesday.
 
Just got my Code 4 in today. Its like the sleek sportscar version of the Recon I despite being 20 dollars cheaper. It is very slick, absolutely no traction, on mine at least. That being said... I love it! Despite being slick, when the blade is opened and you grip in conventionally, there is no slippage even when you pull on it. The ergos of the knife counter act the slickness (Down with the slickness!) No danger whatsoever of it coming out of your hand. And if you want to try to pull it out of my hands, there about 3.5 inches of blade you can grab on to... >:}

Note: You can, but its a risk, switch hand positions mid motion with this knife. These "tactical" maneuvers are better suited with G-10 models. But it can be done, just be mindful.
 
A simple fix would be to stipple the bottom and top of the knife handle where fingers and palm contact. That way, the clean lines are maintained but you get better traction.
 
I really like the abrupt sharp angle of the CS Tanto..it reminds me of how CRK does it so that secondary point is useful for cutting tasks but it's still a fantastic piercing knife. Can you think of ANY folding knife on planet earth that would be better at piercing than any of the CS Tantos with respect to the locking mechanism and blade?!
 
Apologies if this has been addressed and I missed it.

Is the Code 4 flat or hollow ground? If hollow is it a deep or subtle concave? I am thinking of picking up a spear point.
 
Chris Larrikin said:
Apologies if this has been addressed and I missed it.

Is the Code 4 flat or hollow ground? If hollow is it a deep or subtle concave? I am thinking of picking up a spear point.
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My tanto is deep hollow ground
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Chris Larrikin said:
Apologies if this has been addressed and I missed it.

Is the Code 4 flat or hollow ground? If hollow is it a deep or subtle concave? I am thinking of picking up a spear point.
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The spear point is a high hollow grind. You'll be very happy with its slicing capabilities.
 
Chris Larrikin said:
Thanks mate. I'm not quite sold on hollow grinds but xhp is tough stuff and this looks like a good bit of kit.
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I'm a big fan of them. My 2nd favorite style of grind behind FFG because there's so little steel behind the edge (provided it's done properly), yet the spine is still relatively thick. Makes for a strong, high-performance slicer.
 
I love mine, is my edc choice and let me tell you folks that is the perfect knife. Extremely well made, sleek, beautiful and I love the fact that is all metal. I have the spear point version and it's quite a great folder, you just can forget that you have it in your pocket as its real light. Some people complain about the clip being too tight, with the edc it gives and settles just fine after a few months . Just one thing, keep it clean and oiled , cause mine is a bit stained because of sweat.

Great knife for the money
 
I've had my Code 4 spear point since last June, but have not used it yet due to an accident I had with it, which was 100% my own fault. When I received it, the tri-ad lock was extremely difficult to unlock, so I left it half-opened for a few days. This helped loosen it enough to unlock it naturally. Unfortunately, due to a moment's negligence on my part, while testing to see how it unlocked, the blade swung shut on the back of my right index finger, over the last joint, severely lacerating the tendon. I went to the urgent care, then required splinting, then months of rehab and exercises to regain my ROM. It put me out of work for 4 months, since my job requires the use of both hands (massage therapist). My finger still has tightness, and the end of the finger doesn't straighten fully (hopefully it eventually will). It could have been MUCH worse. But I don't blame the knife.

However, it took me until a couple weeks ago to bring myself to touch the knife again. It's really a perfect specimen of a knife. Once it's open it's extremely secure in hand. But it is DEFINITELY a two-hand closing knife. When closing it, I am obsessively careful about going slowly and safely. I doubt if it'll ever become my main EDC due to my experience, but it will definitely see some work around the house/property.

Jim
 
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Wow that's a hell of a story...hope that thing heals up. Cold steel knives do tend to slam shut when they reach that point.

First time I shut my knife I held it on this choil...I won't be doing that ever again, so I can sympathize, even though I just had a minor cut.

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That's why i tighten my knife all the way down so it doesnt swing close or open freely. Under most circumstances you dont really need your knife to close fast, and even when tightened down, i can open my CS as fast as a ZT flipper. Good way to strengthen your thumb.
 
dkblade said:
Wow that's a hell of a story...hope that thing heals up. Cold steel knives do tend to slam shut when they reach that point.

First time I shut my knife I held it on this choil...I won't be doing that ever again, so I can sympathize, even though I just had a minor cut.

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Try that with Voyager XL and it will be your bone that feels the impact.
 
When my Code 4 shut on my index finger, the finger was low on the handle, and the belly of the blade bit me; that curve really bit into the finger. And there isn't any muscle padding there. It only takes a split second of inattention to result in months of difficulties (or worse).

Enjoy your knives but never take safety for granted! Even with the strongest locks, IMO, it's the unlocking phase that presents the greatest potential danger.

Jim
 
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James Y said:
When my Code 4 shut on my index finger, the finger was low on the handle, and the belly of the blade bit me; that curve really bit into the finger. And there isn't any muscle padding there. It only takes a split second of inattention to result in months of difficulties (or worse).

Enjoy your knives but never take safety for granted! Even with the strongest locks, IMO, it's the unlocking phase that presents the greatest potential danger.

Jim
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hatchettjack said:
This is how you do it!
https://vimeo.com/152500954
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Yeah that's how its done, everybody knows that (or should). However, the slightest moment of nonchalant carelessness will cost you some of your blood and the prospect of an unscarred finger.

My point is *steps in closer* ...the Tri-Ad lock really keeps you on edge...
 
Jonslaught said:
Yeah that's how its done, everybody knows that (or should). However, the slightest moment of nonchalant carelessness will cost you some of your blood and the prospect of an unscarred finger.

My point is *steps in closer* ...the Tri-Ad lock really keeps you on edge...
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Haha dramatic! You're right though..the payoff for super strength is a constant necessity for finger awareness!
 
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