My new SR1 and vertical blade play

i tightened my pivot as far as possible. no effect on mine. so i started playing with it and i noticed.....

if i pull up on the spine hard, it seems to let the lockbar seat deeper and the play goes away. weird but i guess its a tolerance issue more than anything else.
 
yep. i tightened mine as far as could and it never got where the blade wouldnt open, so i backed it out to make sure i wasnt hitting some lock tite, but cranked down again. it stops and it cant go any further. not sure if its a stripped thread or burr that stops it or just cant go any further ?

definitely tolerance issues. im just hoping mine wears in to lock up tight with no play. so ill have to use it cutting stuff to put the pressure against the blade to lock it up tight.;)
 
I just received my SR1 this afternoon. Lock up is completely tight, no play in either direction. Pivot is smooth with just a bit of grit that I didn t notice when I first opened the box. The type that feels as though it can be cleaned out. (I did carry it to the beach this afternoon.). The blade is centered. The blade is only moderately sharp, but I care little about sharpness out of the box. I can always put on the edge I want. One of the biggest folders I ve ever had . When I get the chance I ll compare it to the only other folder I ve had of comparable size and weight, my Buck Strider 880 sp.
Overall I m very happy with the fit and finish.
 
Flushed my new SR1 with warm soapy water and all grittiness disappeared. Smooth pivot and easier to close than some of my earlier Cold Steel models. Great fit and finish. Maybe the knives with the lock rock were a bad batch, and the problem is corrected.
Carried it today with my Recon 1 spearpoint. Two great knives. The SR1 is amazingly overbuilt. But I wonder what I would use a knife for that would require more strength than the Recon 1 provides. Maybe as a solitary camp knife or survival knife the added strength of the SR1 would be handy. Makes me wonder about the 4 Max.
I would like to hold a 4 Max in hand, but not enough to buy one. My local knife shop quit carrying Cold Steel.
Will thin the edge of the SR1 just a bit tomorrow.
 
whp said:
Flushed my new SR1 with warm soapy water and all grittiness disappeared. Smooth pivot and easier to close than some of my earlier Cold Steel models. Great fit and finish. Maybe the knives with the lock rock were a bad batch, and the problem is corrected.
Carried it today with my Recon 1 spearpoint. Two great knives. The SR1 is amazingly overbuilt. But I wonder what I would use a knife for that would require more strength than the Recon 1 provides. Maybe as a solitary camp knife or survival knife the added strength of the SR1 would be handy. Makes me wonder about the 4 Max.
I would like to hold a 4 Max in hand, but not enough to buy one. My local knife shop quit carrying Cold Steel.
Will thin the edge of the SR1 just a bit tomorrow.
Click to expand...
i have a 4max, italian version, as well. i prefer it to the sr1 in someways. its a bigger knife but ergos are better, and doesnt carry all that badly relative to its size and weight.
 
It s taking quite a while to thin the edges of the SR1 blade to about 15 degrees per side with my sharp maker cb n rods. Based on the time it is taking , I think the hardness of the s35vn must be relatively high. There is a lot of steel to be removed from this thick blade edge, though. I ll keep working on it.
 
whp said:
It s taking quite a while to thin the edges of the SR1 blade to about 15 degrees per side with my sharp maker cb n rods. Based on the time it is taking , I think the hardness of the s35vn must be relatively high. There is a lot of steel to be removed from this thick blade edge, though. I ll keep working on it.
Click to expand...
Mate, you are one patient man to try reprofile what comes at roughly 25-28 degrees per side down to 15dps with just a sharpmaker. I put my sr1 straight on the KME sharpener with diamond 80 grit stones and it still took a while. Best of luck with it tho, it makes a huge difference once you thin the sr1 down, cuts much better :thumbsup:
 
Sometimes slight vertical blade play will go away on Tri-Ad locks as the parts wear into each other. The "tooth" will slowly and (very slightly) seat deeper the more you use the knife. This is normal, not a defect, and the Tri-Ad lock improves as it wears.
 
Mick_1KRR said:
Mate, you are one patient man to try reprofile what comes at roughly 25-28 degrees per side down to 15dps with just a sharpmaker. I put my sr1 straight on the KME sharpener with diamond 80 grit stones and it still took a while. Best of luck with it tho, it makes a huge difference once you thin the sr1 down, cuts much better :thumbsup:
Click to expand...

I thought the factory edge was 23-25 degrees per side by my estimate. If the hardness is high , as it appears to be, maybe I m making a mistake bringing the edge to 15 degrees per side. Might be less chippy and still a good cutter at 20 degrees per side. I ve already accomplished the 30 degree total angle now, finally.
It took a long time ,even with the the cbn rods. Finished it with the medium rods and a leather strop. Took me over an hour in 3 sessions. I wondered if I was ever going to get a sharp new edge, but I knew it had to get sharp eventually. Now it is nice.
I might consider putting on a secondary bevel of 20 degrees per side when I sharpen it next.
This folder is the closest I have to a folding fixed blade. Strong.
I m still intrigued by the 4 max. But the extra weight puts me off, for as rarely as I would ever need a folder stronger than the SR1.
 
whp said:
I thought the factory edge was 23-25 degrees per side by my estimate. If the hardness is high , as it appears to be, maybe I m making a mistake bringing the edge to 15 degrees per side. Might be less chippy and still a good cutter at 20 degrees per side. I ve already accomplished the 30 degree total angle now, finally.
It took a long time ,even with the the cbn rods. Finished it with the medium rods and a leather strop. Took me over an hour in 3 sessions. I wondered if I was ever going to get a sharp new edge, but I knew it had to get sharp eventually. Now it is nice.
I might consider putting on a secondary bevel of 20 degrees per side when I sharpen it next.
This folder is the closest I have to a folding fixed blade. Strong.
I m still intrigued by the 4 max. But the extra weight puts me off, for as rarely as I would ever need a folder stronger than the SR1.
Click to expand...
The factory edge angle will be a little different knife to knife depending on who sharpened it at the factory for sure. And wait...No pictures of your new edge??? You should be whipped in the streets! ;)
 
I'm in the U.K. , I sent mine back to the dealer on Thursday. Today (Saturday) I received the replacement. It is totally solid. I love this knife. And I love the dealer and their excellent service. I'm not sure if I'm allowed to name them on here.
 
I have seen a couple Recon 1 reviews where the triad lock had the same problem.
In those cases it was due to the blade rebounding from the stop pin in aggressive opening. When opened by keeping the thumb in the stud, the problem disappeared.
One user diagnosed the problem by pushing down on the lock bar.
Some folks disassemble the knife and polish the lock assembly.
Just a thought.
 
wildmike said:
I have seen a couple Recon 1 reviews where the triad lock had the same problem.
In those cases it was due to the blade rebounding from the stop pin in aggressive opening. When opened by keeping the thumb in the stud, the problem disappeared.
One user diagnosed the problem by pushing down on the lock bar.
Some folks disassemble the knife and polish the lock assembly.
Just a thought.
Click to expand...
yep pushing down on the lockbar solves mine. also riding the thumb stud to open past works as well. it should be noted it isnt aggresive opening that causes it, even slow and steady opening does it, but the ride the thumbstud or push lock bar or pull on blade spine solves it on mine.
 
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