My next 3 knives....

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It must be the standing water. I regularly drive my truck up and down the creek in up to 3 feet of water. I've never had any problems, but then again its running water! :D
 
SPXTrader said:
It must be the standing water. I regularly drive my truck up and down the creek in up to 3 feet of water. I've never had any problems, but then again its running water! :D
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Now, see, I heard you didn't have running water there!



edit: and our rotors here are CPM-S110V! :p
 
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Of course we do...It runs down the holler and collects in Wilson's Pond. Geesh, I thought everyone knew that!
 
SPXTrader said:
It must be the standing water. I regularly drive my truck up and down the creek in up to 3 feet of water. I've never had any problems, but then again its running water! :D
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Youse guys gonna bust my chops all night :eek:

I may have been doing a little canyon carving, and may have had the brakes a little heated up, and, I may have built up a little too much heat, and my brakes may have gotten a little greasey, and I may have driven across a little water in a low gap. I suppose one could assume I may have warped the rotors while pretending I was driving a sports car on a road course (rather than the truck I was actually driving irresponsibly on a public road).........but, I still contend it was the water :p

Oh and PS..... I still have plenty of brake pad.... I think :eek:;)
 
No_b00st said:
ugh thermal shock is a b*tch...
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Actually, you're more likely to warp a rotor by getting them (really) hot and then sitting at a prolonged stop, like at a traffic light. The rotor starts to cool, but the area under the pads does not, and it warps.
 
spiralarchitect said:
I may have warped the rotors while pretending I was driving a sports car on a road course (rather than the truck I was actually driving irresponsibly on a public road).........
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Only a Kershaw nut from WV would try to re-heat treat his fricken rotors. Sheesh ;)
 
riffraff said:
Actually, you're more likely to warp a rotor by getting them (really) hot and then sitting at a prolonged stop, like at a traffic light. The rotor starts to cool, but the area under the pads does not, and it warps.
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Your practical, real life, scientific, and likely correct information is not welcome here. I prefer pure conjecture and BS.... get with the program ;):p

J, I wasn't trying to re heat treat the rotors...... I was trying to re heat treat the leek blade I had duct taped to the back of the rotor. It turned out that the heat treat wasn't the problem....just the quench at the end :D
 
Rotor run out (warped rotors) is a VERY uncommon event. I used to race SCCA, and in many many years, I've never seen a rotor run out due to heat, even at race conditions. More than likely, they've glazed over unevenly(fairly common) , and developed an uneven build up of pad material. You can fix this with fine grit sandpaper. Whenever you change pads, you should "bed them in" with a series of progressivly faster speeds and harder braking. You want a micro thin layer of pad on the rotor, but you want it even.


From an old SCCA Tech Manual:

Brake pad glazing is caused when the brake pad friction material is overheated. This results in crystallized friction material on the pad surface and the brake disc.
Typical symptoms of glazed brake pads include: Poor stopping performance, vibration or brake judder, and cracks or fissures in the brake pad material. Pad glazing is typically caused by operating the brake pads at a temperature above the specified temperature range of the friction material or not properly following the 'Bedding-in' instructions for the brake pads. Always follow the manufacturers brake pad bedding-in instructions and use a brake pad that has a temperature range that is sufficient for its intended use.


I hope this makes sense!

Here's info on bedding in pads.
 
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spiralarchitect said:
J, I wasn't trying to re heat treat the rotors...... I was trying to re heat treat the leek blade I had duct taped to the back of the rotor. It turned out that the heat treat wasn't the problem....just the quench at the end :D
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Oh, I thought you were just trying to put a flat grind on that :eek:

heres where you say touche.
 
SPXTrader said:
Rotor run out (warped rotors) is a VERY uncommon event. I used to race SCCA, and in many many years, I've never seen a rotor run out due to heat, even at race conditions. More than likely, they've glazed over unevenly(fairly common) , and developed an uneven build up of pad material. You can fix this with fine grit sandpaper. Whenever you change pads, you should "bed them in" with a series of progressivly faster speeds and harder dead stops. You want a micro thin layer of pad on the rotor, but you want it even.

I hope this makes sense!
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Makes sense. Now a more important question...should I get ceramic or just plain ole semi metalics. I usually just try to get the Bendix (sp?) SM brake pads. They seem to last forever, however, I can't find them for my truck. :confused:
 
CarX "lifetime warranty" ceramic brakes have worked well for me.

Im not dead, and the brakes still work. :D
 
riffraff said:
Actually, you're more likely to warp a rotor by getting them (really) hot and then sitting at a prolonged stop, like at a traffic light. The rotor starts to cool, but the area under the pads does not, and it warps.
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ahh this makes sense too... I know if your rotors are too hot and you sit stopped you'll leave a visible mark/indentation on your rotor.

It's unpleasant.

At least you don't have a VW! 4th set of rear brake pads in 64,000 miles.
 
SPXTrader said:
Whenever you change pads, you should "bed them in" with a series ...
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Bedding pads is where I've seen the warpage occur. People blast down the highway, nail the brakes a few times to heat them up, then pull off the highway and stop. :eek: Proper procedure calls for cruising five or ten miles further down the highway, allowing the rotors to cool (at least to a more believable temperature). :thumbup:

It's amazing how many people have never heard of bedding, though. The concept was brought (not so) abruptly home to a friend of mine's wife when the brake shop didn't bed them properly. She took off, and without testing them, got in a situation where, with decent brakes, no problem...but these were now worse than when she took the mini-van in, even though it had new pads. Normal braking turned into a panic-stop-god-I-hope-don't-hit-that-car-in-front-of-me kind of scenario.

As long as we're talking DIY brakes and such, it bears mentioning that rotors that have been "turned" (on a lathe) also need the pads re-bedded, even if they're old pads (though I can't imagine turning rotors without replacing the pads, duh). There's no more brake material on the rotor surfaces, so you're back to a lack of stoppage.


This has been a public service announcement; we now return you to your regularly scheduled train wreck.
 
riffraff said:
This has been a public service announcement; we now return you to your regularly scheduled train wreck.
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train_wreck.jpg
 
spiral, unless you plan on performance driving in your truck, I'd get a street grade pad. Ceramics will work better only if they're hot. On a cold rotor they stink (not the smelly kind either)! For Sandy's Mustang, I get the mid-grade street pads from Advance Auto. A bump or two harder than OEM, these are the pads that deposit the dark dust on the wheels from normal driving. They have a lifetime warranty, so save your recipt! On my Cobra, I run Hawk HP-1 pads. They really don't work well until hot, but man do they grab when running at temp! And bed them in. They will stop better and last longer.
 
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