yes, correct, I've been slacking on giving you guys the full write up.
Broke my phone so there will be no pictures or videos for now.
also I learned that these are resin bond thanks to hein31
I didnt understand how because I was applying my experience with resin bonded naniwa super stones which are very soft
but then I learned there is a whole world of different bond strengths and its not a simple as what type the bond is.
these diamond stones have a very,very hard bond.
I'd say these stones are specialty not necessity for the average dude they just cost too much and cut too slow.
However,
for the professional/hobbyist/heavy user you get a long lasting abrasive, almost zero dishing, great finish(very bright), true splash and go speed, they also take out scratches better which means bigger jumps; few stones ( the fewer stones used for sharpening the better less time for inconsistencies to add up freehand.)
These are stones for geeks but even so they don't replace all of your other stones they just compliment your existing stone collection and are used for certain knives or tasks.
They take a little to get used to the feedback they feel a little glassy but do have some feel to them kinda in between the naniwa pro and the dmt eef.
Id rank the dmt EEF as the worst feedback stone ever haha
what's interesting is that with very hard steels(62-65hrc) the naniwa pro losses some feedback but the naniwa diamond keeps its feedback and feels like its cutting better.
haha also the 3k diamond wasn't the revolution I thought it would be for s110v, user skill is very important, any inconsistency in angle ruins that treetoping edge that can just skim above the skin and catch and cut hairs.
My apex had to be bomb on the previous grit for the 3k to work otherwise it just felt like I was just moving back and forth on the stone with no results just a pretty finish.
Then there was always that risk that I could round the edge from even the slightest angle variation of crush the edge and round it from too much pressure. The edges were sharp but not as sharp as they could be, so Id have to go back and be more careful, its funny because these stones have the ability to cut any steel but because they take longer then the naniwa chosera (pro) stones to sharpen with the micro inconsistencies in angle control can add up especially with s110v which is difficult in my experience to put a high polished tree topping edge when starting from dull.
even with a perfect apex on s110v it still lost that treetoping edge from high polish very quickly.
So, it seems that there is more to sharpening then just carbide tear out but overpolishing seems to reduces the performance in high carbide volume steels that might do better with deeper scratches to expose more of those carbides at the edge followed by just polish to refine those teeth and remove burr and foil edge but not enough to erase all the scratches.
but thats all anecdotal, YMMV
I'm open to anything.
I know that experience will be different with different users and skill levels
I'll share more soon.
