Naniwa Diamond Waterstones Review.

Hi Shawn

I have read and watched a lot of your posts and videos. But still not sure about what grit to get on Naniwa diamond stones.

Was thinking max to stones to get a good WORKING edge on knives that are in a good condition. That is they are just about not cutting paper in a fluid motion.

Knives that I am going to sharpen:
Malanika 4V on order
Malanika bushcrafter cruwear on order
Spyderco sprig S90V
Reeve S35VN
Bark river jx5 (large heavy chopper) and aurora 3V
Bark river jx6 elmax

(I have waterstones for normal low vanadium carbon steels)

Could you recommend one or two grits on NANIWA diamond stones? Saw that you have 800 and 3000. Feels to fine for working edge or? Thinking 400 and 1000...or?

Thank you!

/Kristian
Sweden
 
Kristen,

They just make a 600grit. No 400grit.

I'd say get the 800, that is a favorite of mine.

start the machine said:
Hi Shawn

I have read and watched a lot of your posts and videos. But still not sure about what grit to get on Naniwa diamond stones.

Was thinking max to stones to get a good WORKING edge on knives that are in a good condition. That is they are just about not cutting paper in a fluid motion.

Knives that I am going to sharpen:
Malanika 4V on order
Malanika bushcrafter cruwear on order
Spyderco sprig S90V
Reeve S35VN
Bark river jx5 (large heavy chopper) and aurora 3V
Bark river jx6 elmax

(I have waterstones for normal low vanadium carbon steels)

Could you recommend one or two grits on NANIWA diamond stones? Saw that you have 800 and 3000. Feels to fine for working edge or? Thinking 400 and 1000...or?

Thank you!

/Kristian
Sweden
Click to expand...
 
There’s a 400, see Knives and Tools, for example. The 400 is actually really nice, it’s aggressive enough, but not unnecessarily fast cutting. It also doesn’t load, as the higher grits seem to be prone to do.
 
now said:
There’s a 400, see Knives and Tools, for example. The 400 is actually really nice, it’s aggressive enough, but not unnecessarily fast cutting. It also doesn’t load, as the higher grits seem to be prone to do.
Click to expand...
It says for Aussies and Kiwis only.
On their site.

Did you email them or are you from down under?
 
DeadboxHero said:
It says for Aussies and Kiwis only.
Click to expand...

You’re looking at Knives and Stones. Knives and Tools is a different site, run from Europe. I would have posted a link before, but I thought it was against the rules. I looked at the help again and I couldn’t find said rule, so if anyone can confirm that links to shops are OK I’ll post the link.
 
At the time when this thread was made there was no 400.
Things have changed in the past three years. Slowly but surely there will be even more of these kinds of stones.
N now thanks for keeping things current.
 
DeadboxHero said:
Kristen,

They just make a 600grit. No 400grit.

I'd say get the 800, that is a favorite of mine.
Click to expand...
Thank you for answer.

It is difficult to know the jumps.
I bought a 400 and 1000 before your answer. But is that to large jump? (starting to regret not getting 800 instead of 1000).

Thinking of 3000 next and not buy any more :)
 
start the machine said:
Thank you for answer.

It is difficult to know the jumps.
I bought a 400 and 1000 before your answer. But is that to large jump? (starting to regret not getting 800 instead of 1000).

Thinking of 3000 next and not buy any more :)
Click to expand...

It will be fine.

The jumps for freehand are ranges.

300-600grit *generally speaking* can make jumps to 800-2000grit
 
Hi Shawn!

How would you rate the naniwa 800 diamond water stone compare to DMT EF 1200?
I guess if I would make the question more specific... in terms of abrasions rate, polish, feedback and keenness? :D
If you have something more to ad pls do :D

I currently own a DMT EF 1200 and wonder if I should open my wallet! o_O:p Maybe I should ad the stone will mostly touch mid to high-end kitchen knifes.
 
DMT may be a finer grit but the surface finish will be rougher than the Naniwa 800 diamond.

Naniwa makes a better edge.

The Naniwa will last you a lifetime.
The DMT will wear out quickly.

Kais said:
Hi Shawn!

How would you rate the naniwa 800 diamond water stone compare to DMT EF 1200?
I guess if I would make the question more specific... in terms of abrasions rate, polish, feedback and keenness? :D
If you have something more to ad pls do :D

I currently own a DMT EF 1200 and wonder if I should open my wallet! o_O:p Maybe I should ad the stone will mostly touch mid to high-end kitchen knifes.
Click to expand...
 
DeadboxHero said:
DMT may be a finer grit but the surface finish will be rougher than the Naniwa 800 diamond.

Naniwa makes a better edge.

The Naniwa will last you a lifetime.
The DMT will wear out quickly.
Click to expand...
I would disagree with that. With proper use and care you will get many years out of a 1200 grit dmt.
They are more evenly graded then the old ones also. You dont need to flatten a dmt plate either.
One last point, a smart shopper can buy 5 dmt 8" plates for the price of 1 naniwa.
"Better" edge...? Perhaps... Just some other views from an old dmt user.


Russ
 
mycough said:
I would disagree with that. With proper use and care you will get many years out of a 1200 grit dmt.
They are more evenly graded then the old ones also. You dont need to flatten a dmt plate either.
One last point, a smart shopper can buy 5 dmt 8" plates for the price of 1 naniwa.
"Better" edge...? Perhaps... Just some other views from an old dmt user.


Russ
Click to expand...
I agree to disagree,
I speak from my opinions and experience.
 
There’s of course also the question of enjoyment of use, where the Naniwas are a clear winner. The DMT will feel like you’re scrubbing your knife against a very hard, unyielding, surface, where the Naniwas will feel more like you’re rubbing them against a much more forgiving surface.
 
mycough said:
I would disagree with that. With proper use and care you will get many years out of a 1200 grit dmt.
They are more evenly graded then the old ones also. You dont need to flatten a dmt plate either.
One last point, a smart shopper can buy 5 dmt 8" plates for the price of 1 naniwa.
"Better" edge...? Perhaps... Just some other views from an old dmt user.


Russ
Click to expand...

My guess is the best application for the diamond waterestones is for wide beveled Japanese culinary knives and possibly woodworking tools with wide bevels. Neither of these are very fun to work with on plated diamonds.

That said I am not enamored of the handling qualities of my diamond waterstones from JKI. They cut slowly for their rated grit, load rapidly, and the edge quality is not exceptional compared to a plate or (with non-super steels) any of my other waterstones. I have no experience with the Naniwa, but the JKI ones seem like a niche tool where you might want a softer touch and diamond abrasive. In that case comparing them to diamond lapping film might be a better analog.
 
HeavyHanded said:
My guess is the best application for the diamond waterestones is for wide beveled Japanese culinary knives and possibly woodworking tools with wide bevels. Neither of these are very fun to work with on plated diamonds.

That said I am not enamored of the handling qualities of my diamond waterstones from JKI. They cut slowly for their rated grit, load rapidly, and the edge quality is not exceptional compared to a plate or (with non-super steels) any of my other waterstones. I have no experience with the Naniwa, but the JKI ones seem like a niche tool where you might want a softer touch and diamond abrasive. In that case comparing them to diamond lapping film might be a better analog.
Click to expand...
The surface finish is less rough, better for push cutting, they function better with hard steels. Softer steels load them faster.
This is why I like Vitrified, it cuts faster and loading doesn't slow down the cutting or effectiveness, but price is high.

Those resin stones from JKI will last a lifetime. The plates will not.

I still own and use plate because they make a micro serration for when I want more aggressive draw cuts at consequence to cleaner, better push cuts.
It's an inverse relationship.
 
DeadboxHero said:
The surface finish is less rough, better for push cutting, they function better with hard steels. Softer steels load them faster.
This is why I like Vitrified, it cuts faster and loading doesn't slow down the cutting or effectiveness, but price is high.

Those resin stones from JKI will last a lifetime. The plates will not.

I still own and use plate because they make a micro serration for when I want more aggressive draw cuts at consequence to cleaner, better push cuts.
It's an inverse relationship.
Click to expand...

Actually I found them to be more rough at their rated grit than I expected, the 6k is comparable to my Suzuki Ya 4k, although the 1k is more or less comparable to other 1k. Both are very slow, which to me is a killer. The 6k edge is not in the least bright, even on super steels, making it not very good for cosmetics either.

I'm not 100% clear if these stones are resin or partially vitrified, they are hard as a rock and ring when tapped, but that means nothing.

The diamond jointering stone I picked up from Global Tooling actually produces a finer finish and only cost $35 - it is perfect for finishing and microbevelling, which even on super steels is really all you need in a diamond stone - grits above 800 ANSI or so.
 
Hi guys,
I have gotten in to high carbide steels like XHP and 20CV. My current Global ceramic stones do an okay job, but I suspect I might need to throw in a diamond stone or two to really help with these steels. I can get a really nice hair shaving sharp edge that seems to quickly fade away with basic use. I think this might be due to poor edge stability. I can get my X50CrMo14 kitchen knives sharp and they stay sharp, just not the super steels. This is my current regimen:

Global Ceramic Whetstone - 120 Grit (rarely used)
Global Ceramic Whetstone - 1000 Grit
Global Ceramic Whetstone - 5000 Grit
Spyderco Ultra Fine
Leather Strop

Do I have to start completely over with diamond stones, or is it possible to salvage some of my Globals with the right Naniwa diamond inserted in the right spot? Thanks.
 
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Your ceramics will be fine for the upper range of your sharpening, imho, but you need something to cover the coarse end of the spectrum. Plated or bonded diamond will fit the bill, (plated being more "aggressive", by and large but leaving a more "ragged" finish in comparison)...or coarse SiC or AlOx hones (like Crystolon and India).

On high carbide steels (> 4% vanadium carbide), I try to finish up on diamond as well, whether at a coarse or fine level. (Though I've had reasonable results from Sharpmaker ceramic rods or bench stones as well, for just a couple of light finishing strokes.)

I don't have any of the Naniwa stones, but if Shawn endorses them, and I've watched his videos, I'm confident that they're excellent.
 
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