Need AXE (possibly multiples) selection help...

[Survivormind]

I snapped a video of one of my plaintooths going. This is really dry pine, its better to cut it with a bit of moisture in it, it wont skip like I did a bunch of time. Also sawing on the wrong side of the sawhorse, and was tired from carrying the 16' log home on my shoulder. Hey, at least im not bullshatting you and trying to make it look glamorous. This is about the least fun as it gets cutting pine on a mostly sturdy saw buck.

[video=youtube;TPkU39o6w30]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TPkU39o6w30&feature=youtu.be[/video]

Notice the caked on mud on the toe on the saw. Thats from using this saw in lots of weird angles during mud season

Awesome video, G-pig! That's pretty much what I need.

 

[trailtime]

Just my 2-cents, but if you're really looking for just one saw, you'll be better off with a longer blade. A four foot saw is the minimum and a five footer will give you a full single stroke and make a darn nice double-bucker, assuming you'll be using it a lot. A longer blade will also keep you back from the drop zone when making your release cut on down or hung-up trees.

 

[Survivormind]

Just my 2-cents, but if you're really looking for just one saw, you'll be better off with a longer blade. A four foot saw is the minimum and a five footer will give you a full single stroke and make a darn nice double-bucker, assuming you'll be using it a lot. A longer blade will also keep you back from the drop zone when making your release cut on down or hung-up trees.

Great info, Trailtime. That pretty much matches what G-pig has been saying.

 

[Bo T]

Sometimes when the owners die the heirs just want to get rid of the stuff. Estate sales are common but sometimes the heirs hire an auctioneer to auction off the material. Used to be more common than estate sales here but now estate sales are more common where the prices is set.

I've found bargains at both but better bargains at auctions. The only downside is you have to wait while all the crap is sold until the auctioneer gets to the good stuff I want. It also helps if you are the only guy there that likes old tools.

I've been to a couple of auctions lately and you can spend a lot of time with nothing to show for it. Figure on spending 8 hours if you're out bid and more if you are sucked into a bidding war. I've had some luck at estate sales. They usually last 1 - 3 days with what is left over selling for half or less at the end of the sale. If there is something that you really want you need to be the first in the door and there probably won't be any dickering on price. I've had my best luck just keeping abreast local adds (news papers and etc.). You need to keep cash in hand and be on the ball when the add comes out. You might not have the time. There was one item that I waited over a year and a half on.

 

[Bo T]

probably closer to a face cord. That was all cut a few years ago, I would say bucking, splitting, stacking etc probably 5 or 6 hours to be realistic. if you are cutting a ton, you can hone your system and cut back on the wasted time. It's more about how much energy goes into it as opposed to time. To saw through a 10" green pine like that with the plain tooth probably took 35 or 40 seconds (I wished I had timed it now), and at that pace you can saw for a long time. Keep in mind I am 5,5 125 pounds without any crazy muscle mass or anything.

That's an easy face cord G-pig.

Survivormind, I've found some of the lodgepole pine difficult to split. Also, you will need to lay up an additional 10 -20% because it isn't one of the better firewoods. A full cord could take a full summers day.

 

[G-pig]

That's an easy face cord G-pig.

Survivormind, I've found some of the lodgepole pine difficult to split. Also, you will need to lay up an additional 10 -20% because it isn't one of the better firewoods. A full cord could take a full summers day.

I am not qualified to speak of this in detail, but its worth looking into rocket mass heaters, or even a masonry hat for a stove. you can cut back dramatically with some of this stuff.

 

[Survivormind]

Great info, guys. I'll have to look into those things. I plan on cutting 8 cords this spring. I'd rather have 4 or 6 extras to sell next year than be short. Also, we will be doing our cooking year round with wood. We are going to use A LOT of it.

 

[stevewest]

This has been a very interesting thread. Lots of information that I find very usable. I have a hobby that does/will require a lot of wood processing and have gotten some good tips. My thanks to all the contributors

 

[Survivormind]

I agree, Steve.

Does anyone have any experience with vintage Craftsman one-man crosscut saws? 4 footers with the lance type teeth.

And yeah, I searched the forums.

 

[G-pig]

I agree, Steve.

Does anyone have any experience with vintage Craftsman one-man crosscut saws? 4 footers with the lance type teeth.

And yeah, I searched the forums.

All of the craftsman saws were, I believe, manufactured by other companies. Thats not a bad thing, most of them are Simonds and I think disston and atkins may have made some at some point. They are generally considered very good.

 

[trailtime]

I agree, Steve.

Does anyone have any experience with vintage Craftsman one-man crosscut saws? 4 footers with the lance type teeth.

I have a couple. Good saws and they file up ok. When single bucking with a longer saw, you are at a disadvantage with a
"typical" saw though, as the blades run thin. I prefer a cutoff western bucking saw like a Simonds 503 or a shortened 513, as the wider end on the D-handle will be less likely to kink, the thick gauge steel is less likely to fishtail and the weight will sink deeper into the kerf.

 

[Double Ott]

The top saw, a perforated lace tooth is a Montgomery Wards Powr Kraft.

The lance tooth, I believe is a Craftsman saw (not sure). Both Wards & Sears had several saw makers make saws for them...there really isn't a way to tell who made their saws, even if the etchings were visible.

Both of those saws pale in comparison to these Disstons. The Disstons have a much thick stock for the blade. They are heavier saws, that makes them cut better just using their own weight. One can let the saw do the work for you without having to bare down one them.

Both these Disstons are currently at a sawfiler in Colorado for a professional sharpening and tuning. One will be set up for hardwoods, the other for softwoods.

I don't think the Wards and the Craftsman are worth the expense to send them out for sharpening. I may try to do them myself someday. I will not cry if I screw them up.

These Disstons cut pretty well as is, but will blow through wood when I get them back.

Tom

 

[M3mphis]

Major saw envy!!!!!!!!!!

 

[Survivormind]

Those look awesome. I let that bid expire. It started to get higher than I was willing to go. Especially if I can find something better.

 

[Square_peg]

My Gawd that saw is beautiful.

 

[VintageAxe]

Well, I went back to the guy with all the saws today. Only one plain tooth among them and it was a 6 foot two man saw. Sorry, no luck there. I did nab an Atkins one man and a Disston Nevada two man (with all their handles) for myself.

 

[Survivormind]

Well, I went back to the guy with all the saws today. Only one plain tooth among them and it was a 6 foot two man saw. Sorry, no luck there. I did nab an Atkins one man and a Disston Nevada two man (with all their handles) for myself.

Thanks for the effort! I might have found a Disston...

And when you guys were talking about the Council Boys Axe, were you suggesting I buy the Forestry Edition or the standard?

Thanks!