Need help with picking a scope....

On the 6.5 Grendel upper I looked at Alexander Arms who are the original partners on the Grendel design and also Precision Firearms who make IMO an even better product for the money. On Alexander's site their top of the line barrels fitted with an upper are a lot more than Precision Firearms who are using two really good names of Dan Lilja and Les Baer. What both share in common is that they jump from a 20 inch barrel to a 24 inch and don't do a 22 inch. Alexander does do shorter barrels in the 16 to 18 inch range. Missing out a 22 inch offering may be due to a reason ... long VLD bullets such as the 130g 6.5mm rounds with a tight twist of 1-8 can be sensitive to barrel length "combinations" ... and work best in certain lengths. 24 inches gives 3 complete turns on the bullet prior to exit ... 20 inch gives 2.5 ... I suspect those bullets work best in a half twist increment for stability. Bullet choice is great in the 120g to 130g bracket for long range use but on an AR15 platform you have a pressure limitation because of the action/bolt set up compared to a bolt gun but the velocities are still very impressive from looking at the ballistic tables which in the case of the ones I looked at are based on a 24 inch barrel.

My experience of the AR15 platform is pretty extensive but solely in a military context where getting in and out of vehicles and FIBUA issues can dictate a great deal as to what barrel lengths are suitable. Hence my initial thoughts at 16 to 18 inches.

If you want it for Hunting though, which you did say was the case, then looking at the accuracy being obtained from the Les Baer 24 inch barrels on the Precision Firearms Neptune V upper ... less than .25 MOA at 100yds and less than .5 MOA at 220yds is VERY impessive ... better than many top .308 tactical bolt guns ... infact it makes a good case for whether you need anything else!!

Alexander does reasonably cheap factory ammo now ... but also does good Lapua based ammo too ... so you can mix hunting and target work accordingly. Plus the Lapua brass will be excellent for reloading as the pressures you are shooting at will give great extended life to the case ... if at a later date you go down that route.

The 130g Norma bullet is a favourite of mine ... great BC and able to give good velocity of 2500 plus out of a 24 inch barrel ... which will take you "accurately" to 600yds and possibly 800yds ... and you will hit steel at 1000yds. With tweaked handloads it might well group well at 1000yds. You can push the Lapua 123g Scenar or Sierra 123g HPBT 2650FPS and that may well be a better choice in an AR platform for long range because of the better velocity. If you don't go for an incline rail and use straight mounts then you definately want a scope with 100 MOA or more internal movement if you want to try shooting at 1000 yrds. You don't want to be right at the top of the scopes movement ideally as that is where windage limitations on the movement come into effect and yet it is exactly where you need maximum windage when shooting at distance.

I have'nt checked out the velocity sacrifice for a 20 inch barrel but would expect 100 fps on a 4 inch difference ... personally if you were thinking of 22 inches and can get a good 22 inch upper that might be fine ... but from doing a little reading around I am very taken with the performance offered by the 24 inch barrels. Woodchucks at 300 yards will be well within the rifles capabilities ... on target ammo I think 600 yards is do-able. Punching paper or steel out to 800yds and 1000yds is also there ... so you have a great all round set up. I was quite impressed with the "stats" once I got into the 6.5 Grendel cartridge in an AR15 ... would'nt mind trying one myself if I get the chance.
 
When I was building up my Sako AII (.308) from a shotout/rode hard .22/250 I was torn between 22 and 20 inches sticking out the front. I lost a little sleep over it but as I also have a .300Win, with enough barrel to make John Holmes jealous, I split the difference and went with 21inches... :) Very happy, seems to be about right as a package for most of the hunting I do. You have to decide what you want out of the rifle I guess.

Andy
 
Well guys I have made my decision. I am going with the 6.5 Grendel. After researching ballistics and ammo costs it was a pretty easy decision. I am having it made with a 24" barrel and free floating stock and some other stuff that I am not really sure what it is. I am still researching the scopes. That seems a little more complicated than I thought. Thanks again for all of the suggestions and information. I am hoping to have it within a few weeks. I will post pics when I get it.
 
Well guys I have made my decision. I am going with the 6.5 Grendel. After researching ballistics and ammo costs it was a pretty easy decision. I am having it made with a 24" barrel and free floating stock and some other stuff that I am not really sure what it is. I am still researching the scopes. That seems a little more complicated than I thought. Thanks again for all of the suggestions and information. I am hoping to have it within a few weeks. I will post pics when I get it.

Glad you were able to find something you enjoy. Be sure to let us know how she shoots.

Who's building it for you?
 
Glad you asked for help. 6.5 Grendel will be competent for a lot more than 300 yards. You could shoot it at 1000 yards if the mood struck you right.
 
You made a great choice there Josh ...:thumbup:

Allowing for how accurate the 6.5 Grendel is and the distance you can go to ... if it was me I would go for a high magnification at the top end ... 16x is good for humans but not so clever on Woodchucks at 600 yards ... which the rifle should be able to do ... the greater accuracy from the "stats" puts a whole new complexion on things ... think of an incline rail or rings with the incline built into them ... which will save you losing 20 MOA from a flat set of mounts on the scope movement ( on average 20 MOA is needed to compensate for the height from the bore to the scope cross hairs and an incline rail sorts this out so you shoot at 100 yds at the bottom end of the scopes movement leaving as much movement as possible free for distance ) ... higher mag scopes always have less movement ... but the advantage in accuracy at distance is considerable when shooting small targets ...

I have'nt used much in the "mid price range" on scopes because Military issue and then what I could afford myself were luckily more towards the top end when I came out because I had a few savings by then ... but I decided I would do a little research again on what was "good" in that price bracket ... and whilst I have'nt used them a guy on our team who is the World Champion individually at F/TR and has also been the European individual and our National Individual Champion ( Russell Simmonds is his name and google him if you want ) ... he uses a variable power Sightron and a variable power Leupold ... and clearly to good effect ... so well worth checking out those... the distance you can go to with the 6.5 is worth some high magnification IMO.

For less than $1000 the SIII S8 scopes from Sightron are really well packaged. They come with Mil/Mil Radian reticle/clicks or MOA/ MOA reticle/clicks. The 6-24 x 56 has 100 MOA windage/elevation and the 8-32 x 56 has 70 MOA windage/elevation. They also have a lifetime warranty. I particularly like the SIIIS8 8-32 X 56 LRMOA scope. If you had a 20 MOA rail or rings this is equivalent to a 90 MOA elevation on a flat rail/rings ... and 70 MOA or there abouts is well able to get you to 1000 yards. Plus on 32X the distance between the hash marks is 2 MOA. At 300 yards on full power for ranging a Woodchuck it is about 6-7 inches high on all 4 feet. So bracket the Woodchuck on this power between the hash marks and you know it is at 300 yards. Two hash marks and it is 150 yards ... half way up a hash mark and it is 600 yards. You will need the high power of 32x to range a small Woodchuck out to 600 yards ... and a Mil Dot reticle does'nt offer the same precision as the dots are too far apart in comparison. Plus on 8x with a 56mm objective the exit pupil ratio for the scope is 7 ( 7x8=56 ) and this is the maximum the human eye can work too ... so you still have maximum light gathering capability on 8x if you wanted to hunt Deer at dawn and dusk. All told it is a lot of scope for the money ... and well suited to your intended purposes.
 
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I just read this entire thread. HOLY CRAP. What a vault of knowledge. I wish I would have had this info a few months ago before a built a 6.8. Oh well now I have an excuse to build something else. Bring on the 6.5 Grendel. Thanks for the very informative thread guys.

Garth
 
I just read this entire thread. HOLY CRAP. What a vault of knowledge. I wish I would have had this info a few months ago before a built a 6.8. Oh well now I have an excuse to build something else. Bring on the 6.5 Grendel. Thanks for the very informative thread guys.

Garth

This thread pretty much cost me $1200 for a 6.5 Grendel upper. :)
 
This thread pretty much cost me $1200 for a 6.5 Grendel upper. :)

I hear ya brother. This will not be my last upper or gun for that matter, after reading this thread. My scope purchases are also going to hurt after this thread. :eek: I love that I have this group of guys with there vast knowledge and are willing to share what they know.
 
My Trijicon Accupoint is brighter than my (now sold) Nightforce. They both use Japanese glass and for the money I really like Trijicon Accupoints. I'm sure a Schmidt and Bender would be the bee's knees but I haven't got that kind of budget nor skill. I have and like Leupold VX3, Baush & Lomb/Bushnell Elite 4200 and Zeiss Conquest scopes. These all appear to be comparable in clarity/quality IMO. 10x is plenty for 300 yards, but a little more would be welcome I'm sure. YMMV
 
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