New A.G. Russell Barlow Lockback anyone like this one?

Other than the 8cr13mov, I love it!
(no, it wouldn't stop me from buying it. Just not preferred. It seems like all of my 8cr13mov steels get rust-dots fairly quick)

I understand just how you feel, I would like to see every one of my knifes in VG-10, ATS-34, RWL-34 or even ZDP189, but they would cost so much that you would be unlikely to buy them. 8Cr13MoV has turned out to be a really fine steel and I am getting good feedback from my customers and also seeing some of the major importers picking it up based on what they hear from our joint customers. Keep your eyes open as we test new steels in some knives
 
Well, I am a fan of the Sandvik 12C27, as on the Curved Regular Jack. It is easy to sharpen and touch up, and takes a fine edge. I haven't tried the 8Cr13MoV.

I tend to prefer the "older", softer steels like 1095, AUS8, 12C27, etc., but am probably in the small minority these days.

Andrew
 
Well, I am a fan of the Sandvik 12C27, as on the Curved Regular Jack. It is easy to sharpen and touch up, and takes a fine edge. I haven't tried the 8Cr13MoV.

I tend to prefer the "older", softer steels like 1095, AUS8, 12C27, etc., but am probably in the small minority these days.

Andrew

If you know and like AUS8, you will like 8Cr13MoV. The nominal compositions are very very close (although the tolerances are a bit wider for the 8Cr13, so there can be a bit more variation in performance).

Sal Glesser ran tests and found them to have similar edge retention properties. He says that the AUS8 is maybe a bit cleaner because it did a bit better in salt-spray tests.

As AG has it heat treated, at 57-58, the 8Cr13MoV should be an excellent blade steel.
 
I found 8Cr13 to perform nicely for being a budget friendly steel but I prefer AUS8 to it overall. Something that would really pique my interest is if this knife, or any of the models AG has made in China, could be done in D2 or one of its equivalents.
 
If you know and like AUS8, you will like 8Cr13MoV. The nominal compositions are very very close (although the tolerances are a bit wider for the 8Cr13, so there can be a bit more variation in performance).

Sal Glesser ran tests and found them to have similar edge retention properties. He says that the AUS8 is maybe a bit cleaner because it did a bit better in salt-spray tests.

As AG has it heat treated, at 57-58, the 8Cr13MoV should be an excellent blade steel.

Thanks for the info., Frank. But now you are making this AGR barlow more tempting! Now if I can just reconcile myself to the hollow ground.....

Andrew
 
Thanks for the info., Frank. But now you are making this AGR barlow more tempting! Now if I can just reconcile myself to the hollow ground.....

Andrew

I wouldn't let that put me off. If you are like me and have more knives than you can wear out, take a run at that knife with a hollow grind. I have more than enough flat ground knives and while they make great heavy work knives (like my JYD, Tyrade, Rat 1, etc., etc.) but I missed the pure slicing power or a well profiled hollow ground blade.

I recently bought a Kershaw Blur on Am@z@n at an astonishing price as a 12 hour special. I have carried those bigger flat ground blades so long I had forgotten just how much slicing power a good hollow grind could have.

To me, this knife hits a sweet spot. It is small enough to carry in your pocket (the flat scales really enhance that) and it is big enough to do practical things that you would expect for a knife this size. With the lock blade feature that just enhances the blade's capability as a work knife to me. While I usually carry two knives, like a big flat ground knife and a peanut or tiny jack, I wouldn't feel under equipped at all going to the job with this knife alone in my pocket.

As far as the steel goes, I have several work knives I use in that 8Cr steel. They don't get babied, they get every dirty job I don't want to use my smaller knives to perform. I often clean tar, industrial adhesives, paint, caulk, etc., off them with lighter fluid after cutting tar paper, caulk tubes, cutting off old sealants, and on an on. I can tell you that in my experience, that steel is a good, solid performer that will take a good edge sometimes great, BUT, it depends on the heat treat as with all steels.

I would buy from AGR knowing that his steel will be treated to its optimum performance.

Robert
 
Robert,

Thanks for your post and info. You make a very good case for the AGR barlow, and I am liable to give it a try before long.

Andrew
 
I'm one of those rare people that would honestly take rust-resistance over edge-retention. There's just something about rust I don't like. It makes it seem like your knife is being "taken away from you" by rust eating it up. I would rather have to sharpen my knife once a week over having rust all over it.
 
I have yet to have a blade "rust" , guess it is due to my maintenance techniques. And I have been carrying and using a D2 fixed blade for 3 years and a 52100 slipjoint for over a year. None of my CV sodbusters have a speck of rust either.
 
Back
Top