New beater knife, what should I get?

rhino said:
Two things:

(1) I need to recalibrate my understanding of the term "beater knife."
(2) I need to learn to just not react at all when someone mentions spine whacking (unironically).

Other than a Sebenza, a Benchmade 761 would probably suffice if you can find one for sale. I think of the 761 as the "Benchbenza" or "Sebenmade."
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Isn't that sacrilegious?
(JK)
 
But the "Ink" has largest washers: the biggest that I've seen in a knife!
 
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Echoing most of the responses, you really will have a solid knife with the Cold Steel if you are concerned about how much of a beating it will take and still have a solid lockup. I've owned many of them over the years and liked them all, The American Lawman was probably my favourite one.

www.knifecenter.com

Cold Steel 58B American Lawman Folding Knife 3.5 inch S35VN Black DLC Blade, Black G10 Handles

Cold Steel 58B American Lawman Folding Knife 3.5 inch S35VN Black DLC Blade, Black G10 Handles
www.knifecenter.com

G2
 
rhino said:
Two things:

(1) I need to recalibrate my understanding of the term "beater knife."
(2) I need to learn to just not react at all when someone mentions spine whacking (unironically).

Other than a Sebenza, a Benchmade 761 would probably suffice if you can find one for sale. I think of the 761 as the "Benchbenza" or "Sebenmade."
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I've "spinewhacked" my hand before, but that's my hand... I just got a new PM2 today and no part of me wants to slam it backwards on the table in front of me to see if it fails.

Little bit of a tangent, but... Most ZT knives fail spinewhack tests, which is fine and good, but if I want a slipjoint, I'll use one. There was actually a time back in the day when men's men, blue collar roughneck types (I'm using roughneck wrong, aren't I? I think that's an oil worker. Eh, it sounds cool), would get into knife fights and they'd use their Case Stockmans, Trappers and Barlows. They considered switchblades to be, like, I don't know... it would be what a gun guy would think if I walked up with a Hi-Point with a 100 round drum. So, they had this technique where you'd slap the back of the other dude's knife to get it to close on his hand. ZT does a lot of promo and deals with law enforcement, as well, so protip: Next time you're on the ground struggling for a cop's gun and he pulls a ZT to retain it, just spinewhack it! 😂

Lol, that story is actually partially true, not the spinewhack, an ex-LEO here shared with me a harrowing story of a fight with a perp who smashed him at the last second, went for his gun, and the guy's ZT didn't deploy, and he was barely saved in the nick of time. I hope everyone recognizes my above joke as just that. 😀
 
DocJD said:
My idea of a bulletproof beater doesn't involve 3 bills or Ti . :rolleyes:

Recommend Cold Steel Tri-ad lock folders . :cool::thumbsup::thumbsup:

4Max Scout is extremely robust at a bargain price .
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Straight up, some of my toughest knives I paid $50 or less for (Cold Steel GRIK and Voyager XL Tanto bought together for $50, Ontario SP-1 was about $50)
 
“rough and tumble” might be the phrase you were looking for. Many roughnecks used to fit the description, and probably still do…

Parker
 
Cold Steel AD10 or for bigger hands the 4 Max Scout. If you want better steel properties go with a more expensive 4 Max model that are out there. You can beat the snot out of these blades, and they ask for more. Checkout some online reviews on these two knives, I don't think you'd be disappointed with their performance.
 
What about a regular Benchmade Griptilian and get some aftermarket Ti scales? Should still come in under 300$ easily and its normal enough to not feel bad really whacking on it.
 
c7m2p3 said:
What about a regular Benchmade Griptilian and get some aftermarket Ti scales? Should still come in under 300$ easily and its normal enough to not feel bad really whacking on it.
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The lack of a full liner, and the thinner blade; kind of makes them a not-so-good choice...
 
Bob Denman said:
The lack of a full liner, and the thinner blade; kind of makes them a not-so-good choice...
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Why? With full Ti scales the lack of a full liner for strength is moot. And I WISH the standard grips had a thin blade all the new production ones are starting with .12" thickness and they are saber ground.
 
This-username-is-taken said:
It may not be the biggest issue ever but i want to be able to carry my knife with confidence, also the lockup isnt the only issue i have with it, bunch of stripped screws, bladeplay in all directions, the clip is bent so the knife is just hanging there in my pocket loosely and the list goes on. Also i might still use the thing if it wasnt my most carried knife, and if it wouldnt have to stand up against hard use (not abuse, but hard use)
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Why are the screws stripped? How often are you taking that thing apart?
 
c7m2p3 said:
Why? With full Ti scales the lack of a full liner for strength is moot. And I WISH the standard grips had a thin blade all the new production ones are starting with .12" thickness and they are saber ground.
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Yes: the Ti scales help...
But for serious use: a full liner holds things together ever better.
Take a look at the North Fork model...
Don't get me wrong: I love my Griptilians!
 
My beater is an old Manix 2 with M4 blade. I cut with it, I scrape with it, I don't pry with it, I don't hit it with anything, I don't whack the spine against anything.
 
Boattale said:
Have you looked at a lock back Spyderco with a liner - PM2? or others with a hole in the blade....
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Comp lock, you mean?
The Byrd Cara Cara 2 is the lockback 8cr version of the PM2, IMO. I don't know why they're pimping out the Tenacious instead of that.
 
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