New beater knife, what should I get?

This-username-is-taken said:
Hello everyon, I’m looking for a new work knife. I have used a steel will cutjack in the past, but is has developed lockup issues and fails spinewhacking, so I’m gonna need Something new. I have though about this quite a bit and have some very specific wishes, since it will be my most carried knife, but I can’t quite find anything that would complete all of them, so I wanted to ask for help on this forum, thanks in advance😀

these are the things I look for:
t8 hardware all around
bead Blasted titanium (I want it to develop a nice snail trail pattern)
Phosphor bronce washers
thumb stud or flipper (or both) deployment
s30v s35vn 154cm, something along these lines
i know that sounds like a sebenza but I don’t want to spend that much money, I’d say 200-250, maybe 300 if something really nice gets recommended
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The Ferrum Forge/Massdrop Crux is kinda perfect for what you want, or at least it used to be, I'm unsure what the pricing is these days but I have #0004 from the first batch and it is exactly what you want. A tough, sturdy framelock with a lot of texture to the blasted finish, it smooths out really well over the years and develops nice understated snail trails. I'm sure you could find a secondhand one either here or on knife_swap for around $120, give or take a twenty, if you keep an eye out.
 
gazz98 said:
https://www.bladehq.com/item--Kizer-Begleiter-Frame-Lock-Flipper--94098
Not sure on washers. I have a Begleiter in G10 + 20CV and it is an excellent knife. I've never spine whacked it tho. Tanto version too.
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I have the other two versions of this variant of the Begleiter, the framelock tanto and matching carbon fiber liner lock. They're two of my favorites, and the liner lock is one of the best liner locks I have ever encountered, from anyone. The detent on my Skaha II releases a touch smoother, but the pivot isn't *quite* as excellent as the Begleiter. The drop point framelock is high on my list. If you guys see them in a store or somewhere please give it a fiddling and see what I mean!

The Ge(nie) is built the same way and is similarly excellent.
 
This-username-is-taken said:
Yeah, i dont spinewhack every knife i own but the ones that i use a lot i do
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I don't 'whack' them, but as part of getting to know a knife I'll check for lock rock, blade play, and then I'll knock the spine against my other hand to get a feel for it, see if it has any unsettling characteristics when bumped.
 
This-username-is-taken said:
Guys l get it, spinewhacking is dumb. I never really thought about the effect it might have on the lock, but luckily some of you have pointed it out, i learned Something new. Also thanks to all the great reccomendations!👌
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IMO , any folder intended for hard use should be able to tolerate moderate spine whacking , prying , etc without damage or failure .

Cold Steel Tri-ad locks are certainly built for this challenge that many others fail . :cool::thumbsup::thumbsup:
 
Bob Denman said:
Yes: the Ti scales help...
But for serious use: a full liner holds things together ever better.
Take a look at the North Fork model...
Don't get me wrong: I love my Griptilians!
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Im sure its better but from my perspective, if you are torquing on something hard enough to bend over a quater inch thick Titanium....having a liner underneath it is really not gonna be the silver bullet for you
 
I get your point: but I'm from the School of "Every little bit helps"! 😁
Try it: At the worst; you'll have to count it as a lesson learned.
If you're right: you just proved an Olphart wrong...
 
Bob Denman said:
I get your point: but I'm from the School of "Every little bit helps"! 😁
Try it: At the worst; you'll have to count it as a lesson learned.
If you're right: you just proved an Olphart wrong...
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Oh I make it a point not to torque on folders too much anyways! Thats what the fixed blade knives are for but I take your point that more is better though I haven't seen anyone bending Ti slab handles even those without liners in hard use either
 
I think i might be worrying more about twisting the axis lock and it's two attachment screws right out from inside of the handles. But that could happen inside a pair of steel liners also...
 
Bob Denman said:
I think i might be worrying more about twisting the axis lock and it's two attachment screws right out from inside of the handles. But that could happen inside a pair of steel liners also...
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From all the things I have seen...you are going to snap a blade in any steel that isn't something particularly tough if you are putting enough lateral force to literally TWIST a solid steel locking bar through the surrounding steel liners as well as the Ti around them (if you went that route). Would love to be proven wrong by those that have experienced this before but that is just not a concern for me with folding knives....

If I am planning on using my knife as a pry bar I'd either get a pry bar, or just get a thick stock fixed blade and be done with it
 
catspa said:
You know I did, and I didn’t have it home an hour before I was voiding the warranty.

Parker
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Sweet! I have a huge thing for the reverse-S shape and just bought a Cricket and a Lil Matriarch (to go with my Matriarch 2's and Civilian), just need a Dodo and that other one... The hawkbills are related, so I want a Harpy and Merlin at some point.
While I was ordering the Lil Matriarch, saw ordered a new PM2 in Maxamet.
It should be a good beater! 😂
EDIT: and oh boyyy am I excited, there was a Reverse-S PM2 at bladeshow or something a year or so ago and that is the closest thing to the comp lock Civilian I so want1
 
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Yah, I just find the reverse S handy for many cutting tasks. I make mine without serrations, and thin 1/4” of the tip so it’s really slicey. Only thing is though, they won’t stand any prying like that. Which takes them out of the beater category for some people.

The Milwaukee is thicker though, and kinda clunky for reaching into electrical boxes and stripping Romex jacket, etc. Part of my warranty voiding was regrinding the tip profile and adding a curved swedge to the spine within 3/8” of the tip. It’s less clunky now.

The carcass of the knife will hold almost 3/4” more blade. Maybe if I find a nice chunk of .110” thick L6, I’ll make a replacement blade for it.

Also, the wire clip in the forward position really bungled my grip. Not too bad on the aft end. I’m not really a clip guy, but I’m trying it with the knife on the outside of the pocket.

Parker
 
No suggestion, just my honest advice. If my want list included many aspects of a Sebenza, and my budget was pushing $300... I would just kick in the extra yard or so and get a Sebenza (or Inkosi), even if it meant waiting a bit. We're talking about something that should serve you as a lifetime tool here.

On the subject of tools, grab some Wiha bits as well
 
I just bought some Wiha after a Husky busted on me on a PM2 clip screw last night.
 
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