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Warrior, I thought all the axe forum guys say to soak it in vinegar first
 
I'll prolly start working on that one first. I was just Googling a good rust remover. Saves some sanding time. Seems a baking soda and lemon paste works well. I sanded a little on the side you see, to reveal the name on it, but the other side is way more pitted. I may spend some quality time on that one. Really like it, and prolly won't be getting rid of it anytime soon.

molasses and water is supposed to make a decent rust remover (roughly 3 oz molasses to the quart). Soak the head for a day or so and then scrub it clean. (or just smear it with naval jelly, wait an hour or 3, and rinse it off)
 
I read where it said mix the lemon juice and baking soda to make a paste, smear on, let sit for 30 minutes, then rinse off. I had also read about soaking it in distilled vinegar.
 
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Hey Dubz. The product to get is called Evaporust. I did some work for them when they were developing it. It is non-toxic and works better than anything you can buy, mix or make. Get it at most auto parts places and maybe even Wally. If you decide to try it, I'll give you some tips.
 
Nice paddle blade biscuit.

My wife's PFD had no blade. She doesn't want the big honkin', out-in-front knife like mine, so this one will ride clipped in.

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FOR BARLOW!

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Flexxx, she looks like she's about to chew you up and spit you out. Nice. (Did I just quote Hall and Oates? Nevermind... don't tell me.)

Hey Dubz. The product to get is called Evaporust. I did some work for them when they were developing it. It is non-toxic and works better than anything you can buy, mix or make. Get it at most auto parts places and maybe even Wally. If you decide to try it, I'll give you some tips.

The things you learn in the Beckerhead thread...
 
Hey Dubz. The product to get is called Evaporust. I did some work for them when they were developing it. It is non-toxic and works better than anything you can buy, mix or make. Get it at most auto parts places and maybe even Wally. If you decide to try it, I'll give you some tips.

Thanks for the heads up. I like the non-toxic stuff.
 
Warrior, put a 19" haft on that Norlund. It is about the best all around size from my experience, and based on the size of the head would probably be about right. They put those heads on hafts that were too long in my opinion.
 
I really don't have any experience re-hafting, but have read several articles on it though. But thank you just the same, appreciated.
 
I really don't have any experience re-hafting, but have read several articles on it though. But thank you just the same, appreciated.

There are US Forest Service videos online that detail the process really well. I will try and find it for you. It seems like I do one almost weekly as of late. I know you're a ways away, but if you really get stuck and want to send it my way, I'll fix it up for you free of charge. But it's a good skill to have. And you aren't going to hurt the head most likely, so worse case scenario you're just out a small amount from buying a new haft. Plus the knowledge you gain by screwing up on hanging one axe head will pay for itself if you do many more.
 
Just ordered a Vaughan Sub-Zero. :thumbup: Looking forward to getting it.
 
Speaking of rust, my wife found her ol' Leatherman and the joints have rusted, will the evaporust work on that too? Or does it have to be disassembled?
 
I tried the lemon and baking soda trick earlier, since I already had them. It took some off, and I guess would be okay for minor rust, but not near good enough for this project.
 
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