New Buck 110 LT

J Hubbard said:
The handle is made out of glass filled Nylon.
I hope this helps.
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Say no more ! ! !
That's all I needed to know. Great stuff !

(after all my gushing about the Buck.com . . . might want to add that on the handle material line.
Probably sell more knives to those like me who are not filled in on Buck in the past)

I have a 110 with the finger grooves I bought new in the early '80s.
Funny thing, I keep expecting other knife handles to be that perfectly shaped and I've even modded handles to be more like the 110. . . . . I just realized that this past winter . . .
To make my grail "the way I wanted it" I cut thick KreyEx handles off a fixed blade and put them on the Ti Framed flipper just to get what I was searching for. Then I carried the 110 for a few weeks this winter after it was on the dresser for years and years and went
OH !
That's what I've been searching for.
Hahaha

Hard to improve on, or go without, perfection once I've experienced it. I'm looking forward to the lightness with texture. That'll be just TOO sweet.
 
Mr Hubbard great news on the 112 summer release! I think it's a great model for advertising variations at such a low price point..Have any been made yet?
 
Wowbagger said:
First off I just came from the Buck.com site.
GREAT JOB !
Has the info I look for.
Other manufacturer web sites often don't and I wind up going to quality online vendors who know what their customers want to know and list lots of info.

The question I have is : is the handle hollowed out or is it solid nylon ?
Also I read here that early on people thought there were steel liners; there isn't right ?

What is the consensus; is this the type of plastic handle that feels robust and will be really solid and long lasting with moderate use or is it the kind of plastic that tends to get more brittle over time and crack if you look at it sternly ?
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The Valox (polybutylene terephthalate) handles that were assembled with rivets (2 piece), were usually cored/hollowed out on the inside. This was likely done to speed the molding cycle rather than reduce weight. With proper design and strategically placed ribs, the knife was just as strong as the solid handle.
The solid handle knives were molded in one piece to save assembly costs and could not be cored because you could not get them out of mold. Both Valox and Nylon (polyamide) can be glass filled to strengthen the material.
 
Takoma said:
Hey gang, I saw the new Buck 110 LT on the web for 24.95 pre order.
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WUDnspW.jpg
 
tiguy7 said:
The Valox (polybutylene terephthalate) handles that were assembled with rivets (2 piece), were usually cored/hollowed out on the inside. This was likely done to speed the molding cycle rather than reduce weight. With proper design and strategically placed ribs, the knife was just as strong as the solid handle.
The solid handle knives were molded in one piece to save assembly costs and could not be cored because you could not get them out of mold. Both Valox and Nylon (polyamide) can be glass filled to strengthen the material.
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The inside ribbing helps to prevent twist and bow. side effects were mold time and weight reduction. Big slabs of plastic like to bow and twist.

Jeff
 
I'm going to add the 112 version to my rare, odd 112 collection ...if I can find any rare or odd ones. A engineering sample fits the bill! I'll have to spread the word in Post Falls..
 
Got mine in the mail last night.
Three thumbs up.
Totally happy. Not perfect of course but for the money . . . could be the best knife out there of this type / size.
It really is very useful . . . as I said before the handle is perfect in many ways; maybe all ways at least for me.
Will post much more once I carry it and use it more.
I even like the nubs on top just fine; I have no problem with that. Is kind of an interesting detail actually and I am thinking it may even be some what functional for tuning.
Sharp enough out of the box. Plenty good edge geometry to be useful.
I say if you like the Buck 110 handle shape or like kind if blocky, thick, long, narrow, handles like a Ti Lite (which I MOST DEFINITELY DO) as apposed to a Manix which is wide and flat sided. Then DEFINITELY buy one.
 
I bought a 110LT today and it is a fantastic knife for the $$$.

Light, super sharp out of the box, perfect centering and very comfortable in the hand. :thumbsup::thumbsup:

Negatives? Not much beyond the cheap sheath, but I don’t use them anyways and have a couple of nice leather ones.

As good a USA knife one can expect for around $30.:)

86C8835D-AFBF-4CEB-912B-180F7A1ADE22.jpeg 15326480-1EA1-498A-A806-4B436F27BB0B.jpeg
 
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I picked mine up yesterday too (and posted about it in another thread). I can't believe how light it is, it's of course razor sharp out of the package, and I really like the finish on the blade (what exactly is that?). Mine has more up-and-down and side-to-side movement when open than I would like to see; it's a shame, because other than that it is a great knife especially for the price.

I would like a hi-vis orange one too, but some orange flagging tape through the lanyard hole will help me keep it from getting lost in the bush. I can tell I'm going to use this one a lot.
 
Was carrying mine in my pocket with a couple of other items and I never really felt it. Big but light and unobtrusive. ( a dream come true when it comes to a 110). When I carry my brass 110 this way I start looking around for a hand truck to borrow for the day.

I used it on some tasks I do most days and I would say it was superior to everything else I carry.
That's saying something.
As far as blade length is was long enough (my beloved Para2 can be a touch short).
As far as grip / handle shape / control and dexterity THIS is where this knife shines for me ! ! !
Coupled to the really pretty decent edge geometry ( I didn't have to reprofile it I just put it in my pocket and took it to work) and the decent sharpness (razor sharp / super sharp . . . er . . . that's quite a stretch guys I would call it adequately useful ) . . . anyway I was able to do my precision trimming on the hard rubber products as easily as anything I have ever used so a big THANK YOU to Buck there. Good job !

Now this batch of rubber was very small and not particularly abrasive so it wasn't testing the full monty on the blade.
It's not going to kick my M4 steel out of my pocket, durability wise, but I WAS IMPRESSED.
 
I modified these by adding a screw and a Helicoil to the pivot. This mod lets me swap out blades, but there is no adjustment to the pivot. The pivot bushing is clamped in place so the distance between sideplates is fixed by the length of the bushing.
 
In a video interview from Shot Show 2018, the Buck rep. said "We've run the blade through a process of tumble. Tumbling helps to close up all the pores and makes it a little more rust resistant."
 
plb said:
In a video interview from Shot Show 2018, the Buck rep. said "We've run the blade through a process of tumble. Tumbling helps to close up all the pores and makes it a little more rust resistant."
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Oh really . . . I seem to be missing something here.

A quote from the BuckKnife.com
WHY DOES BUCK USE STAINLESS STEEL?
We use stainless steels because they meet the exacting needs of the many different types of knives we make. Different elements contribute different performance characteristics, helping them guard against corrosion, and making them hard enough to hold an edge. For more information on the type of steels we use, see our Types of Blade Steels section under "Choosing A Knife."
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Then when you follow the link in the above quote there is this
BLADE STEEL
A good blade combines good edge retention, rust resistance and ease of re-sharpening.

  • 420HC is a stainless steel that provides excellent rust resistance, ease of re-sharpening and medium edge retention.
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And just for good measure there is this quote on the 110 LT page
420HC STEEL
This is Buck's standard blade material because it approaches the wear resistance of high carbon alloys while delivering the corrosion resistance of chromium stainless steels. Add our exclusive heat-treat process and you have a very user-friendly combination of superior corrosion resistance with excellent strength for wear resistance and durability. You also have a blade that is easy to resharpen. For best performance we harden to a Rockwell hardness of Rc 58.
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So this all means 420HC is NOT A STAINLESS and will rust if they don't tumble it. o_O;)o_O;)
. . .er . . . or what ?
Never ever a hint of rust on my 35 + year old original 110 that has no tumble.
Sorry to play dumb there. They must be talking about the other steel they sometimes use that rusts and so they tumble that.

(I'm not adverse to going for a tumble now and again)
 
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I thought that quote from the shot show might open a can of worms. You can see what Joe said in the video for yourself at:


Skip ahead to 1:10 to hear about the LT.
 
Wowbagger said:
Oh really . . . I seem to be missing something here.

A quote from the BuckKnife.com


Then when you follow the link in the above quote there is this


And just for good measure there is this quote on the 110 LT page


So this all means 420HC is NOT A STAINLESS and will rust if they don't tumble it. o_O;)o_O;)
. . .er . . . or what ?
Never ever a hint of rust on my 35 + year old original 110 that has no tumble.
Sorry to play dumb there. They must be talking about the other steel they sometimes use that rusts and so they tumble that.

(I'm not adverse to going for a tumble now and again)
Click to expand...
Tumble finish is for appearance as well regardless of steel type,
 
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