New Busse Thumb Notches - Yay or Nay?

GregS said:
I don't own an HG55 or a Sar4 because of the scalloped notches. I desperately wanted a Sar4, so I contacted Busse about having them ground down into a thumb notch. I received a polite... "no". More for the rest of you, I'm happy with the knives I've got, for now that is.:D
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I can not believe they told you no on the notches, mine came without them.:eek:

SAR4 no grooves.JPG
 
Not buying because it doesn't resemble the option #2 which all the SAR guys picked in any way. I was more vocal than anyone in those threads. Read what I posted. It's a great knife and everyone is going to be pleased with it because it is an updated BAIII or SHBA or whatever. I am tempted because it looks so cool but things are pretty thin for me right now. I am sticking to mission oriented gear and that does not fit the description for me :o

It's a brilliant execution of option #1 however which actually won the vote count by a small measure. So, it is the much discussed and anticipated SAR knife almost everyone has been waiting for.
 
Dunner said:
Not buying because it doesn't resemble the option #2 which all the SAR guys picked in any way. I was more vocal than anyone in those threads. Read what I posted. It's a great knife and everyone is going to be pleased with it because it is an updated BAIII or SHBA or whatever. I am tempted because it looks so cool but things are pretty thin for me right now. I am sticking to mission oriented gear and that does not fit the description for me :o

It's a brilliant execution of option #1 however which actually won the vote count by a small measure. So, it is the much discussed and anticipated SAR knife almost everyone has been waiting for.
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Dunner could you consider participating in a passaround? There is one going right now. I am in MSAR and probably dont see nearly the calls you do on a year round basis. I have also probably not been doing it nearly as long as you (dont know your age but I am young). I have my tools chosen already, and I dont see this knife replacing them for my work. However I still think it will do fine for the other chores I want it for.

Not trying to talk you into it.....I am just being open minded. I too like option #2 but this still stands to look like a fine knife and I am excited about it.
 
Dunner ok, then I'll send you MY personal #62 to use and try, not trying to impose on you, nor inquiring of your personal financial situation. I think of all the people who I respect that use knives, you and River 8 should try this and give an honest evaluation. Please allow me to place you and River8 on the Passaround list.
 
Grandsuave said:

I can not believe they told you no on the notches, mine came without them.:eek:

SAR4 no grooves.JPG
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careful about repeating patterns when using the stamp tool, grab a bit of concrete or background from multiple locations, so that you avoid using one locations patter more then once :p
 
I have tried a bunch of smaller Busse's and worked around the choil/talon hole/guard and they work great, stay sharp, get the job done and you NEVER doubt you have a quality tool in the hand. I have had a Euro 4, Meaner Streets, Active Duties, BA-E and Game Wardens. The GW offends the least in this regard and I kept two of them. If I wanted one that bad I would find a way.

For me though... at the margin... when your leather gloves are soaking wet, it's you are in freezing rain or sleet and you are trying to start a fire you want to be using tools that HELP you engage in fine motor tasks because you may be shivering like hell. Having your edge close to your index is just easier to be more controlled.

Having your index finger 1 1/2" from the edge and your thumb over the ricasso does not aid in leverage on your work.

People will argue that but I used to carve objects out of wood that people were willing to pay a lot of money for. I have carved a LOT. Everyone is entitled to and will have their opinion though.
 
Last Visible Canary said:
careful about repeating patterns when using the stamp tool, grab a bit of concrete or background from multiple locations, so that you avoid using one locations patter more then once :p
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You got me!:p Just a lil HOG foolery. Copy n Paste... actually did it with paint show LOL.:D


.
 
It's cool Tracker ;) I do appreciate the offer though. Hopefully I can turn the corner and grab one of the later releases just for kicks. It's a knife I would like to have and use just because it looks great and is getting GREAT reviews. I am definitely not a hater.

I have posted a time or two over the last few years that it is an amazing time to be a Busse customer and I would say Jerry has raised things to a new level again. The designs, innovations and fit and finish of recent releases are all off the charts.

I am looking forward to seeing what comes next :thumbup:
 
Hey Dunner what is your main SAR knife you use right now? just wondering thanks
 
Right now I am carrying my NMSFNO or a CGASH1 and truth be told some of us are getting away from carrying a smaller companion knives because the bigger knives are so effective and the choke up grip the choil provides gets us right up close to the edge for small chores. It comes down to weight and one less thing to worry about losing in the bush.

It's funny. We NW SAR guys carry some serious steel. We got a lot of looks from EMS folks thinking we were Rambo wannabe's but when they saw a group of us get a TON of work done in no time they were seriously impressed.

I will probably switch to a NMFSH when/if it ever comes out and get the River 8 butt grind on it (he had it done on his HHFSH). The forest we work in is very dense and extremely wet a lot of the time. Having a bigger knife helps to break apart stumps for pitch and to harvest dry by splitting down apparently wet stuff. Our mission can require the building of a shelter to hunker down from elements for a while either with subjects or mid-mission.
 
Sorry for the thread hi-jack :barf:

But just to add... I have a SARSquatch and it is an astonishingly effective tool for what we do and is light for the capabilities it brings. It's another stroke of genius from Jerry.

Now back to our scheduled programming on the thumb notches.... Apologies to Raining
 
Dunner said:
I have tried a bunch of smaller Busse's and worked around the choil/talon hole/guard and they work great, stay sharp, get the job done and you NEVER doubt you have a quality tool in the hand. I have had a Euro 4, Meaner Streets, Active Duties, BA-E and Game Wardens. The GW offends the least in this regard and I kept two of them. If I wanted one that bad I would find a way.

For me though... at the margin... when your leather gloves are soaking wet, it's you are in freezing rain or sleet and you are trying to start a fire you want to be using tools that HELP you engage in fine motor tasks because you may be shivering like hell. Having your edge close to your index is just easier to be more controlled.

Having your index finger 1 1/2" from the edge and your thumb over the ricasso does not aid in leverage on your work.

People will argue that but I used to carve objects out of wood that people were willing to pay a lot of money for. I have carved a LOT. Everyone is entitled to and will have their opinion though.
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Dunner, if it's not imposing on you; may I ask you to use this as a post in a new Thread with pictures to explain your post. I may be thick headed I'm just not 'seeing' your words. Or if someone else does can they start a new thread and do so. MUCH OBLIGED!:thumbup:

And Dunner you are always welcome to try my knives. I myself volunteered in many different organizations for years without compensation, so I know the gig.
 
1Tracker, I will try to get some pics together and start a thread on it. No imposition at all :D
 
Dunner said:
For me though... at the margin... when your leather gloves are soaking wet, it's you are in freezing rain or sleet and you are trying to start a fire you want to be using tools that HELP you engage in fine motor tasks because you may be shivering like hell. Having your edge close to your index is just easier to be more controlled.
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just to put it out there, the sar4 is a bit more expensive then the sar5 for doing this, but it is ripe for modification. for 75-100$ you could have the blade thinned and or shortened to remove the choil, and have the handles upsweet towards the gaurd deepend so it would'nt push your hand back so far. and you could also have the thumb grooves removed through rounding if you wanted.

so far I think my custom shopped sar5 (all I did was cut off some of the butt and make handle slabs, all the blade stuff and handle profile was in done in the shop) is as perfect of a sar/survivial/utility knife as I have seen. the only thing that would make it better would be a little bit more of a guard, which the sar4 has in spades.

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj265/lastvisiblecanary/zzIMG_6294-1.jpg
 
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Thanks Dunner, and LVC you make some good points about great mods that can be done to the SAR4 to personalize it for each owner to their specific liking.
 
Agreed. I have pictured the SAR4 choil enlarged, talon hole/guard ground away so I can get a digit in there :thumbup:
 
Nay, the notches are not for me. Now if a SAR4 is ever made without them I'll be all over it, esp one at .187 . I love the SAR4 blade design.

I prefer none, or the traditional narrow ones. I only like the straight line shallow type(traditional) for the looks though. I never needed any as a meatcutter.
 
1Tracker said:
Dunner, if it's not imposing on you; may I ask you to use this as a post in a new Thread with pictures to explain your post. I may be thick headed I'm just not 'seeing' your words. Or if someone else does can they start a new thread and do so. MUCH OBLIGED!:thumbup:

And Dunner you are always welcome to try my knives. I myself volunteered in many different organizations for years without compensation, so I know the gig.
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this is from dennis's post, and kinda shows a bit of the thumb for leverage problem. when your finger is on the actual thumb grooves - your not above the blade. if your going for leverage and controll when shaving wood, you want your thumb above the area being cut to keep your wrist from having to do all the work.

if you did a super extended example, it's like using a hand trowel in reverse grip vs. a hoe. they do the exact same task, but one is on a fulcrum (the handle stick), and the other isn't (directly connected to the hand). both have you pushing the blade down into the dirt, but you need way more force to use the hoe accurately and effectively then you do the trowel because the pressure is applied to the handle of the hoe, not the blade itself.

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the end of the thumb groves are positioned above the choil rather then the blade itself.
 
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