New Council Pack-Axe series, Woodcraft line of axes

RoosterMod said:
Let me know if you guys would like other photos or specs....:)

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Hard to argue with that! Just about all the high center I'd want on an all-around axe.
 
I think this is a smart move by Council. In this they bring back home an important segment of the axe market. For years the small bushcraft/survival axe market has been dominated by imports. It's good to see Council competing for that market.
 
The sheath carry system is a nice try but a little off in my opinion. If an axe is to be carried upside down then I want the head to slip into the sheath from the bottom not the top. It is easier and safer to remove that way without taking off the sling. That is the way they were made in the past, but I wonder if they even looked at that. And the Velcro was a horrific idea. Who mixes leather and Velcro? That piece should just be a loop of leather. There is no reason to have it tightly wrapped around the handle at that point, all it does is hold the handle against your back in an upright position.

Are these the same handles that are on some of the other Council axes? They look pretty good and 24" handles are getting harder to find. Hopefully they will sell replacements.
 
FortyTwoBlades said:
I'm still hoping to see them come out with a rafting pattern. Or a Connecticut.
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I think this is something they should look at - bringing back some classic American patterns and making them with top notch steel and geometry. A hardened poll rafting/miners/construction axe would be nice but let's face it, the market for that axe will be much less then what they're offering here.

Axe aficionados like those who frequent this forum would want one but the general public wouldn't understand or appreciate what it is.

A Connecticut pattern might sell.

For myself, I'm with Benjamin that I'd most like to see a rafter with hardened poll. I'm just not sure if the market is ready for that.

Oh, and it might be smart to start making a saddle axe. I think they'd sell well.
 
IMMHO it seems very contrived to me, but what do I know I just a youngster here. I think the tool will appeal to a certain group of folks, not me! In my area of the country there are too many old axes the need to be saved from the smelter.
 
The axe pictured on this thread shows a wood center wedge. The CT website says an aluminum wedge is used. Which type will the mass produced axes utilize?
 
grafton said:
The sheath carry system is a nice try but a little off in my opinion. If an axe is to be carried upside down then I want the head to slip into the sheath from the bottom not the top. It is easier and safer to remove that way without taking off the sling. That is the way they were made in the past, but I wonder if they even looked at that. And the Velcro was a horrific idea. Who mixes leather and Velcro? That piece should just be a loop of leather. There is no reason to have it tightly wrapped around the handle at that point, all it does is hold the handle against your back in an upright position.

Are these the same handles that are on some of the other Council axes? They look pretty good and 24" handles are getting harder to find. Hopefully they will sell replacements.
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The sheath is a upgraded version from the sheaths that they offer for their Hudson Bay axes...The sheath is made to be carried (as an option) on a belt with larger slits on the back to accommodate an even larger work belt.

The axe can easily be removed from the mask/sling without the user taking it off of their body.

The sling is not leather but made out of Boithane, which is a rubber coated nylon webbing that is often a replacement for leather in horse driving and riding lines and other tack which often sees a lot of wear and abuse.

The velcro is actually very heavy duty, and by using it somewhat tight it is a back up, if the snapped cover were to unsnap. It is adjustable and easily replaced or changed to leather if the user chooses to do so himself.

The sling was designed to be heavy duty, weather resistant, low maintenance, and usable on other axe sheaths and axe sizes in the future...and with it being and added accessory it gives the consumer a choice to purchase with or at a later date....I'm sure there will be a host of aftermarket leather guys that will be offering leather options and adding their own flare...

I hope I was able to respond to some of your concerns...

Peace, Rooster
 
thunderstick said:
The axe pictured on this thread shows a wood center wedge. The CT website says an aluminum wedge is used. Which type will the mass produced axes utilize?
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Aluminum wedges are used on stock axes...wooden wedges are used on the premium lines such as the Velvicut and the new Wood-Craft lines... :)

Peace, Rooster
 
That helps -- In general I like CT products ... but I despise those aluminum wedges. Once the handles loosens there is no good way to tighten things up again.
 
Square_peg said:
I think this is a smart move by Council. In this they bring back home an important segment of the axe market. For years the small bushcraft/survival axe market has been dominated by imports. It's good to see Council competing for that market.
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Agreed. CT has to actually make money to keep the doors open and they are seeing the writing on the wall with Bushcraft.


Square_peg said:
I think this is something they should look at - bringing back some classic American patterns and making them with top notch steel and geometry. A hardened poll rafting/miners/construction axe would be nice but let's face it, the market for that axe will be much less then what they're offering here.

Axe aficionados like those who frequent this forum would want one but the general public wouldn't understand or appreciate what it is.

A Connecticut pattern might sell.

For myself, I'm with Benjamin that I'd most like to see a rafter with hardened poll. I'm just not sure if the market is ready for that.

Oh, and it might be smart to start making a saddle axe. I think they'd sell well.
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Agreed again. The saddle axe has a big presence in the bushcrafting community ... CT has to actually make money to keep the doors open. Weird, dejavu.

To toss in on the lug thing. I think they aren't working on this axe as well as a Jersey or whatever else because of the recurving design. There is a reverse "S" shape going on compared to an "R" shape (???) that you would see on a Jersey.

If a vintage pattern shows up on a bunch of big outdoor/bushcraft youtube channels and the prices jump on ebay, you can probably start making them at CT and make money. Dunno for how long ...

Edit number 15 .... put lugs on your Hudson Bay, proceed to wealth. Make them pointy, call it a mini Jersey. No wait, call it the Jersey Boy. Or the Jersey Bay ....???
 
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The phantom bevel at the front extends down awfully low. Anyone aggressively sharpening this axe more than a 1/2 dozen times will run out of blade! Otherwise I'm glad to see the Swedes come into some competition.
 
300Six said:
The phantom bevel at the front extends down awfully low. Anyone aggressively sharpening this axe more than a 1/2 dozen times will run out of blade! Otherwise I'm glad to see the Swedes come into some competition.
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How much do you take off per sharpening? :eek: I do agree it comes down pretty low, but that actually allows it to DO something during chopping. A lot of phantom bevels are effectively cosmetic unless being used for splitting work. Even once you work past the thicker edge region you'd just have a thin body to the heel and toe, but that doesn't mean you would have to change your actual edge angle--it'd just change the visual bevel width due to the reduction in thickness.
 
RoosterMod said:
The sheath is a upgraded version from the sheaths that they offer for their Hudson Bay axes...The sheath is made to be carried (as an option) on a belt with larger slits on the back to accommodate an even larger work belt.

The axe can easily be removed from the mask/sling without the user taking it off of their body.

The sling is not leather but made out of Boithane, which is a rubber coated nylon webbing that is often a replacement for leather in horse driving and riding lines and other tack which often sees a lot of wear and abuse.

The velcro is actually very heavy duty, and by using it somewhat tight it is a back up, if the snapped cover were to unsnap. It is adjustable and easily replaced or changed to leather if the user chooses to do so himself.

The sling was designed to be heavy duty, weather resistant, low maintenance, and usable on other axe sheaths and axe sizes in the future...and with it being and added accessory it gives the consumer a choice to purchase with or at a later date....I'm sure there will be a host of aftermarket leather guys that will be offering leather options and adding their own flare...

I hope I was able to respond to some of your concerns...

Peace, Rooster
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Thanks for your detailed response. The Velcro makes more sense if the sheath is not leather. It is certainly a better looking rig than what is usually available for new commercially made axes.
 
grafton said:
Thanks for your detailed response. The Velcro makes more sense if the sheath is not leather. It is certainly a better looking rig than what is usually available for new commercially made axes.
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Well, the sheath is made of quality 10 oz. leather, but it is the sling that is made of Biothane... I used to own, and still do drive teams of horses...I really liked the feel and durability of the Biothane driving lines....strong, durable and easy to clean with just water and a rag... In some instances the sling could be used on it's own to lash timbers/ limbs together for a shelter, use as a cinch to collect firewood or brush, hang gear off the ground in trees, and all sorts of applications... making gear that can do more then just one thing makes for good results and less weight...hence the name "Pack Axe"

Peace, Rooster
 
I'd prefer no phantom bevels--everything else looks good to me. I can't see any practical purpose for the bevels on the 19" model and it limits it's usefulness as a carpenter's hatchet to fashion things. Perhaps on the 24" for splitting though its still not my preference.
 
300Six said:
The phantom bevel at the front extends down awfully low. Anyone aggressively sharpening this axe more than a 1/2 dozen times will run out of blade! Otherwise I'm glad to see the Swedes come into some competition.
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Yeah, I noticed that, too. Looks a little funky.
 
thunderstick said:
I'd prefer no phantom bevels--everything else looks good to me. I can't see any practical purpose for the bevels on the 19" model and it limits it's usefulness as a carpenter's hatchet to fashion things. Perhaps on the 24" for splitting though its still not my preference.
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The axe was designed to do many tasks, but not to be the best at any of them...it's an all-around... that's one of the reasons that it is offered on two different handle lengths... just by adding a few more inches in haft, it acts, feels and performs as if they are two completely different axes... the 25 deg. flat grind allows for some nice carving and shaving tasks, the cheeks and phantom bevels help with felling larger trees or limbing heavy branches where a blade will get stuck on the first few swings to open the notch...

Peace, Rooster



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FortyTwoBlades said:
How much do you take off per sharpening? :eek: I do agree it comes down pretty low, but that actually allows it to DO something during chopping. A lot of phantom bevels are effectively cosmetic unless being used for splitting work. Even once you work past the thicker edge region you'd just have a thin body to the heel and toe, but that doesn't mean you would have to change your actual edge angle--it'd just change the visual bevel width due to the reduction in thickness.
Click to expand...

I can make an axe last for a lifetime. And so far have managed to do so. But 'must have' angle grinders, belt sanders and diamond stones weren't commonplace when I was young and inexperienced nor was I ever counselled to become anal retentive about maintaining axe blades to be shaving sharp. A knife knut that buys one of these and figures on an overly acute angle and always being able to shave hair is gonna run out of blade in very short order. Especially if he/she actually uses it and doesn't know a Hemlock from a Basswood.
 
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