New DLT Exclusive Hinderer XM-18 3.5" Spearpoint with a Swedge

I am going to have to check I bought a second new sheepsfoot XM-18 3.5" ... but I haven't taken it apart yet ... it may be T6 torx head ...

the first I bought used may have had some non factory screws with it ... I am curious now ... I was wondering more after you posted earlier about the T6 torx screws ...why mine were 1/16 hex ...

now that you mentioned the Eklipse hardware and I'm looking at that set ... and at the new Sheepsfoot I have ... it makes more sense ... they are T6 torx ...

the first one I bought that was sold as BNIB ... was not so ... kind of irks me now but nothing was wrong with it but the first owner had changed the screws to 1/16 hex instead of the orginal T6 torx ... so looks like I owe you an apology for my post on screw size ... you were correct the screws ... the screws on the NIB (direct from a dealer) Sheepsfoot that I have are T6 torx ...

again I'm glad you posted about the Eklipse hardware ... I had a Sheepsfoot with with non factory screws in it ...
 
It's all cool!
If I have to guess, the 1st owner stripped the T6 head using some cheap screwdrivers. Once stripped they become 1/16 hex. I had some Sheepsfoot/Eklipse trades that came in like that.

JJ_Colt45 said:
I am going to have to check I bought a second new sheepsfoot XM-18 3.5" ... but I haven't taken it apart yet ... it may be T6 torx head ...

the first I bought used may have had some non factory screws with it ... I am curious now ... I was wondering more after you posted earlier about the T6 torx screws ...why mine were 1/16 hex ...

now that you mentioned the Eklipse hardware and I'm looking at that set ... and at the new Sheepsfoot I have ... it makes more sense ... they are T6 torx ...

the first one I bought that was sold as BNIB ... was not so ... kind of irks me now but nothing was wrong with it but the first owner had changed the screws to 1/16 hex instead of the orginal T6 torx ... so looks like I owe you an apology for my post on screw size ... you were correct the screws ... the screws on the NIB (direct from a dealer) Sheepsfoot that I have are T6 torx ...

again I'm glad you posted about the Eklipse hardware ... I had a Sheepsfoot with with non factory screws in it ...
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That's very possible ... i had never looked at the Eklipse hardware ... my brother is a machinist I asked him and they made me a set to fit but I thought I would have to anodize them myself ... nice to know I might find a set for it now.
 
So I've been flipping mine open and closed constantly since Saturday when I got it, but since I opened it (not caused by me) there are some imperfections that are bugging me.

My question is should I brush these off or ask for a replacement. Maybe they are minor and I sound whiny but I felt for a nearly 500 dollar knife it should be perfect. These were all present on the knfie since I unboxed it, I have not carried it or cut anything not even paper.

First there is a tiny little scratch or mark in the finish of the blade on the back that I can't unseee. Every time I look at the back of the knife my eyes are drawn to it. Second it may sound dumb but the paint or whatever is applied to the tri way pivot system logo is not crisp, it seems as parts of it have somewhat rubbed off and it kinda drives me crazy. Third there is a tiny gap between the g10 scale and liner. This doesn't bother me too much because it's really small and I plan on replacing the front with a titanium scale at some point anyway. Lastly I am getting some serious lock stick but only some times. I can't seem to tell what is causing it, most o the time it is fine, but then every so often it will stick hard.

Centering and action are good and everything else seems fine. I am worried that if I do ask for a replacement I will find little things with the new one to complain about.

Am I being too picky? I read the return rules before to make sure I followed them in case I need to send it back so i have complied with everything. The only thing I did was tighten the loose screws (they came loose) and switch the pocket clip to tip up carry.

What would you so in my situation. Does anyone have similar imperfections? Am I just being too picky? I would care as much on a much cheaper knife.
 
Diablogt90 said:
So I've been flipping mine open and closed constantly since Saturday when I got it, but since I opened it (not caused by me) there are some imperfections that are bugging me.

My question is should I brush these off or ask for a replacement. Maybe they are minor and I sound whiny but I felt for a nearly 500 dollar knife it should be perfect. These were all present on the knfie since I unboxed it, I have not carried it or cut anything not even paper.

First there is a tiny little scratch or mark in the finish of the blade on the back that I can't unseee. Every time I look at the back of the knife my eyes are drawn to it. Second it may sound dumb but the paint or whatever is applied to the tri way pivot system logo is not crisp, it seems as parts of it have somewhat rubbed off and it kinda drives me crazy. Third there is a tiny gap between the g10 scale and liner. This doesn't bother me too much because it's really small and I plan on replacing the front with a titanium scale at some point anyway. Lastly I am getting some serious lock stick but only some times. I can't seem to tell what is causing it, most o the time it is fine, but then every so often it will stick hard.

Centering and action are good and everything else seems fine. I am worried that if I do ask for a replacement I will find little things with the new one to complain about.

Am I being too picky? I read the return rules before to make sure I followed them in case I need to send it back so i have complied with everything. The only thing I did was tighten the loose screws (they came loose) and switch the pocket clip to tip up carry.

What would you so in my situation. Does anyone have similar imperfections? Am I just being too picky? I would care as much on a much cheaper knife.
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On a knife this expensive I personally believe you have every right to be picky, but every person is different at the same time. What may bug you may not buy me. Mine has some imperfections in the Battle Black on the titanium scale as if the titanium wasn’t cleaned before the finish was applied, but it doesn’t really bother me so I am keeping it.

Bottom line, if you are going to see the imperfections every time you hold the knife and it drives you nuts, return it for a new one.
 
D Diablogt90 ...

The slight scratches I understand bother some people but just the finishing process whether the stonewashed or working finish or any of the battle finishes and less so but even the shinnier anodized can get scratches or a spot of slightly different shade ... I have a few knives of different brands that came that way ... but since they will be users the slight scratch doesn't bother me ...

but stonewashed or working finishes can come that way .. but they tend to hide future scratches as you use them as opposed to a satin which comes perfect but shows everything as you use it ...

I have several Hinderers and two of these DLT Exclusives one in stonewash one a working finish ... on the working finish the lettering is harder to see at some angles ... but I believe that's just the nature of the finish compared to the stonewashed ...

I saw one other person mention a small space between liner and scale ... and then Josh from REK Sharpening had one issue where the steel lockbar insert had a small gap between it and the Ti lockbar which there shouldn't be naturally ...

only you can decide if they bother you enough to return it or not ... to me the scratches if slight are not an issue because that's just the finish ...

the markings showing lighter doesn't bother me unless it were seriously different from other markings on the knife ... but on mine the angle you look at it changes it ...

the gap would be a non issue if you change scales to a Ti .. and could probably be taken care of on your own ... but I understand for the cost you expect the little things to be spot on ... but even the best brands have a few slip through with minor issues ...

so again only you know whether they are things that will bug you and if they are return it ... DLT will hand pick you one if you call and discuss your issues and tell them what to look for and they are great to do so ...
 
I think after hearing about your knives I've decided to just keep it. I am more paranoid about getting a second one with other imperfections on it that really bug me. Overall the small issues with mine are very miniscule. That tiny mark in the blade is on the back so it's not as bad, the front is perfect. The scale will eventually be changed as noted, and I've flipped it a few dozen times since getting home from works and the action to me seems really nice, and have not had the lock stick.

Overall I feel like the flipping action is important and I believe I got a good one. I don't have any other flippers to compare it to, but this shoots out every time without any wrist motion and closes very smoothly and falls shut. Thanks for the input guys.

Another random question. What is everyone's favorite part of the design of the xm-18? What originally drew me in is kinda weird but I really like the look of where it says HINDERER on the back. While looking at the ZT 0562 ti online it just looked kinda plain and boring by comparison. Don't get me wrong I still kinda want the 0562, but I had to step up to the original because of the design on the back, the ability to get black stonewashed DLC, and the customization options. Somewhere down the line when I recover from the cost of this knife I want to get a matching front scale for it and possibly some copper or bronze hardware for it. My inspiration is the picture on the hinderer homepage. The first picture at the top has this combo and it looks awesome.
 
Diablogt90 said:
I think after hearing about your knives I've decided to just keep it. I am more paranoid about getting a second one with other imperfections on it that really bug me. Overall the small issues with mine are very miniscule. That tiny mark in the blade is on the back so it's not as bad, the front is perfect. The scale will eventually be changed as noted, and I've flipped it a few dozen times since getting home from works and the action to me seems really nice, and have not had the lock stick.

Overall I feel like the flipping action is important and I believe I got a good one. I don't have any other flippers to compare it to, but this shoots out every time without any wrist motion and closes very smoothly and falls shut. Thanks for the input guys.

Another random question. What is everyone's favorite part of the design of the xm-18? What originally drew me in is kinda weird but I really like the look of where it says HINDERER on the back. While looking at the ZT 0562 ti online it just looked kinda plain and boring by comparison. Don't get me wrong I still kinda want the 0562, but I had to step up to the original because of the design on the back, the ability to get black stonewashed DLC, and the customization options. Somewhere down the line when I recover from the cost of this knife I want to get a matching front scale for it and possibly some copper or bronze hardware for it. My inspiration is the picture on the hinderer homepage. The first picture at the top has this combo and it looks awesome.
Click to expand...

If it does bother you ... then I wouldn't hesitate to contact DLT ... as I said they will hand pick you a knife and check everything on it you want checked from detent and fit and finish etc ... DLT has as good of customer service as you will find ...

and the Hinderer Gen 6s I now have four ... and before the new Gen 6 I preferred non flippers ... just fit my hand better ... but these Gen 6s are so smooth flipping that I have tried different grips and found comfortable grips so I could leave them as flippers ... they all fire out like a flipper should IMHO ...

and I have carried Hinderers for years ... my favorite thing about them I guess is they are so solid and lockup is about as crisp as a CRK and just as solid ... they hold up well under hard use and even some abuse ...

and there is that part that you can personalize them with hardware and scales very easily ... always like to do that.
 
I really like their Stonewash DLC. Never seen anything quite like it. Just a damn good looking knife in my opinion. I have a black hardware kit in my mailbox so guess what I’m doing tonight :D:thumbsup:

I can’t wait to see how it looks orange on black and battle black.
 
Looks great with that black hardware. If I wasn't planning on changing the front scale of mine I would probably do the same... or maybe I will anyways? All blacked out would look cool too.
 
Diablogt90 said:
Looks great with that black hardware. If I wasn't planning on changing the front scale of mine I would probably do the same... or maybe I will anyways? All blacked out would look cool too.
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I think it would look damn good all blacked out with a battle black smooth ti front scale, but $215 for that scale is insane...maybe in a year or two..
 
Murphjd25 said:
I think it would look damn good all blacked out with a battle black smooth ti front scale, but $215 for that scale is insane...maybe in a year or two..
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I agree. All of the RHK hardware is priced double at what it should cost. Which is fine because I typically buy second hand hardware.

Of course if you want something bad enough doesn't matter.
 
Murphjd25 said:
I think it would look damn good all blacked out with a battle black smooth ti front scale, but $215 for that scale is insane...maybe in a year or two..
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Agreed but I'll be going to the Philly auto show the beginning of Feb and will sign up at Ford for their free 50 dollar gift card with test drive and I have another 50 dollar MasterCard gift card so that will make it easier to justify if I basically get 100 dollars off.. still gonna wait a few months thought 215 for a scale hurts.. that would make it my 3rd most expensive knife purchase lol.
 
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