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mike nelson said:
nothing against your design but that is not a practical knife it would be ridiculous to sharpen and very front heavy
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Front heavy is good for chopping. I want a good hard steel anyway, I don't want I knife I have to sharpen often. It's much easier to sharpen than a Kukri, which has been a very popular knife design for many hundreds of years.
 
medicevans said:
Also Barry, something to think about regarding the saw back: Every time you saw, the teeth have to clear the chips from the width of the blade. With that thick of knife, that's a lot of wood. There's a reason saw blades are very thin. Also, looking at your handle's guards, I think they'd probably get in the way when sawing.
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I didn't link any designs. Your google foo is strong. The hand-guards are a bit stylized, and you may be right about the width. I'm thinking cross-cut type teeth, only good for going against the grain. The saw is really only needed for bones and getting perfectly flat edges, and notching, and isn't integral to the design. I have a blank space for saw teeth, why not have them? On my pre-prototype very crude saw teeth work amazingly well. I think with only a little refinement it will be useful enough.
 
Draft_X71.jpg


Interesting

You know, in the standard reply

"Knife Design:

Think thin. A paring knife slices, an axe doesn't.
Forget swords, Saw-tooth spines, guthooks, crazy grinds and folders for your first knife."


It's exactly the kind of thing you have drawn there.

Tom Brown had a :tracker or something like that.
there have been lots of variations on that since.

I think still think George Sears had a good idea, pocket knife, small fixed blade, small hatchet.
(plus a folding sweede saw - jhave a look at the thickness of a sweede saw - VERY thin.



Why not saw teeth ? it means you can't baton well with it.


what is the purpose of the long slot ?
 
holy text. . .

Thanks for the wealth of info.

I'll only say that I've been digging on this for a while, so I'm not totally ignorant, but if I thought I didn't need help, I wouldn't be here.

I'm quite sure my ban-saw was intended for wood. It was given to me because it's previous owner hadn't turned it on more than 2-3 times in 4-5 years.
 
12345678910 said:
Draft_X71.jpg


Interesting

You know, in the standard reply

"Knife Design:

Think thin. A paring knife slices, an axe doesn't.
Forget swords, Saw-tooth spines, guthooks, crazy grinds and folders for your first knife."


It's exactly the kind of thing you have drawn there.

Tom Brown had a :tracker or something like that.
there have been lots of variations on that since.

I think still think George Sears had a good idea, pocket knife, small fixed blade, small hatchet.
plus a folding sweede saw



what is the purpose of the long slot ?
Click to expand...

Suddenly, I'm scared at how easily I'm found. I need to come up with different user names.

This knife won't even be the most complicated thing I've ever made out of metal. I don't want something that just slices. I can buy those. I want something a little heavier/longer (no thicker) than a Kabar with exactly those features. I want it to slice too. I'll even make sacrifices for that, but I need it to chop too. Frankly, if that knife existed elsewhere I would have bought it by now. If it exists, don't crush my dream of making it now that I'm down to putting out the prototype for torture testing.

Long flat slot? Hand grip for power assist/using as a draw knife, or striking surface for batonning.

I'm intimately familiar with the Tom Brown Tracker. I discovered it after I started doing sketches for this knife, and decided it was a good "second" :) I want the hand grip/striking surface farther away from my other hand, and I want it longer for chopping. Chopping even thin stuff with a 7" kabar is silly at best.

Gut hooks I can do (forming is EASY sharpening. . . It'll do but I need suggestions on better tools than I'm using). Double Edge tips I can do. The saw teeth. . . Challenging, but I can do to at least the same functionality as the Tom Brown (yes, I need saw-tooth files). I've done it in every other medium available to me, and done the concepts in a smaller knife. I'm dying to get this baby into some steel.

Hand guards will shrink. Raised thumb rest is out. Wire breaker moved up to the forward hand grip. Blood blood groove out. Tear drop nail puller/finger hold IN (for leverage on the pry-bar-pinky-cradle).
 
BarryHalls said:
holy text. . .

Thanks for the wealth of info.

I'll only say that I've been digging on this for a while, so I'm not totally ignorant, but if I thought I didn't need help, I wouldn't be here.

I'm quite sure my ban-saw was intended for wood. It was given to me because it's previous owner hadn't turned it on more than 2-3 times in 4-5 years.
Click to expand...

"ban-saw"

the first time you wrote it that way, I thought it may be a typo, but after the 3rd, I have to mention this

It is a band saw.

They call it that, because the blade is one continuous metal band.

this is your cheapest decent option
http://www.harborfreight.com/portable-variable-speed-bandsaw-47840.html

image_11347.jpg
 
knifewhatisthisslot.jpg


So this circled in red, that is a fuller?

I agree, no value.



I predict as it is drawn, it breaks here.

knifebreakshere.jpg


Those groves and holes, they won't make it stronger.



and

For something that is so thick, the bevels you have drawn are very small, something like a 25 degree angle. per side

You keep comparing the slicing portion to a kabar, but have a look at the thickness vs bevel height on a kabar
The blade bevels have a much slimmer taper to them
KA-BAR.jpg



something to consider

You don't have to get every feature on the same blade.
but you can have it all in one package

build a "survival system," into your sheath, big blade, small blade, saw, firesteel, cordage, compass, maybe a fire piston or a blowgun?
 
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I wouldnt want to baton a curved like that. Be afraid it slide and cut my leg or something.
 
In my head I know it's "band" but my fingers and tongue have trouble with the 'd' :) I'm too reliant on spell checker!

Mine is a Delta Shopmaster by the way, and the previous owner used it for cutting sheet metal and my immediate reaction was "OOOO! I can use it to cut out my knife blanks!" He replied "I don't know if I'd use it on anything that heavy, but you're welcome to it" I've had it a couple months, have even turned it on (no blanks!).

I didn't get any literature on it, and the machine doesn't say anything about materials. If you guys say it'll do it, I'll give it a shot.
 
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No need to change user names, you can't hide from the Count !!!!

Your enthusiasm comes through. Follow your muse, listen to advice when possible and make what you want.

A few thoughts. You said not so big as to be unwieldy and usable as a fighter? You'd never get that blade into action cast enough to take out a 3 toed sloth... :-D wayyyyy too heavy.

As far as carbon steels and their "rusting", I think people over think that part. I am a plumber bi use Channel Lock brand pliers all day, every day in water constantly. NEVER need to wipe em down beyond a quick tap to shake free the majority of the water and they never rust. Why? Because they have a patina.

Have you been to the bushcraft forum? Look at Anviljaw's knives, AKA Rick Marchand he uses alot of 1095 and forces patina's.

Also. Perhaps The Count, AKA Sam, would be kind and help find Frank the Tanks recent WIP of a knife very much like you are wanting.

Have fun! Hope this helps!
 
12345678910 said:
knifewhatisthisslot.jpg


So this circled in red, that is a fuller?

I agree, no value.



I predict as it is drawn, it breaks here.

knifebreakshere.jpg


Those groves and holes, they won't make it stronger.
Click to expand...

Of course. That's the notch I'm moving up to the widest part of the blade, and that hole is out. I like it for tying too, but it's overall not useful enough to sacrifice any strength at its most critical point. The hole on the pommel will be moved to the middle of the pommel, rather than the front.

and

For something that is so thick, the bevels you have drawn are very small, something like a 25 degree angle. per side

You keep comparing the slicing portion to a kabar, but have a look at the thickness vs bevel height on a kabar
The blade bevels have a much slimmer taper to them
KA-BAR.jpg
Click to expand...

Of course. I just drew a little something there. I'll do the edge at 20 degrees (for prototype at least, but I'm sure that'll work well for a utility blade) with the bevel tapering/feathering off reducing the appearance away from the edge, for smoother cutting.

Yeah, I'm heavily influenced by the Kabar. It's an amazing knife, but I need something a little stouter.

something to consider

You don't have to get every feature on the same blade.
but you can have it all in one package

build a "survival system," into your sheath, big blade, small blade, saw, firesteel, cordage, compass, maybe a fire piston or a blowgun?
Click to expand...

I have a couple sets like that and wouldn't be totally opposed to using something like that, but I think my system can be done. For my local woodlands I need a hatchet, and this blade should do as a good stand in,and sharp enough to process game. That's 2 of my blades taken up, and given that it's not dissimilar form Kabar's machetes either, I suspect it will knock that one out as well. It has a nice little flat surface near the hilt for whittling and a decent point for making cradles and bowls and such.

This may be a pipe dream, but I have a vision in mind, and I just have to try it out.

I really appreciate all the input.
 
BarryHalls said:
In my head I know it's "band" but my fingers and tongue have trouble with the 'd' :) I'm too reliant on spell checker!

Mine is a Delta Shopmaster by the way, and the previous owner used it for cutting sheet metal and my immediate reaction was "OOOO! I can use it to cut out my knife blanks!" He replied "I don't know if I'd use it on anything that heavy, but you're welcome to it" I've had it a couple months, have even turned it on (no blanks!).

I didn't get any literature on it, and the machine doesn't say anything about materials. If you guys say it'll do it, I'll give it a shot.
Click to expand...


One of these?

No, it won't cut steel

41dFS4HkozL._SL500_AA300_.jpg
 
Brian Ayres said:
No need to change user names, you can't hide from the Count !!!!

Your enthusiasm comes through. Follow your muse, listen to advice when possible and make what you want.

A few thoughts. You said not so big as to be unwieldy and usable as a fighter? You'd never get that blade into action cast enough to take out a 3 toed sloth... :-D wayyyyy too heavy.

As far as carbon steels and their "rusting", I think people over think that part. I am a plumber bi use Channel Lock brand pliers all day, every day in water constantly. NEVER need to wipe em down beyond a quick tap to shake free the majority of the water and they never rust. Why? Because they have a patina.

Have you been to the bushcraft forum? Look at Anviljaw's knives, AKA Rick Marchand he uses alot of 1095 and forces patina's.

Also. Perhaps The Count, AKA Sam, would be kind and help find Frank the Tanks recent WIP of a knife very much like you are wanting.

Have fun! Hope this helps!
Click to expand...

Thanks! Yeah, I've used pipe wrenches and other steel tools in some VERY wet applications. It takes it's toll over time, but we always wore them out before rust got them. Still, I'd feel the need to coat steel blade with something rust preventative. Blood and sweat bring out more rust than water alone. No big deal though. If it reduces the cost of the blade and makes it fun colors, it's a plus! :)

Men have use short swords of similar weight and size for thousands of years to great effect. The gladius and kukri come immediately to mind. Naturally, a sword wasn't a weapon of surprise, and this won't be either. Too big to conceal.
 
Hey, thanks.

It did jut dawn on my that I'm well acquainted with the machine shop teacher at the local junior college. They have a 3d printer. . . Hmm. . .
 
Barry, your cart got so far ahead, your horse can't even see it anymore!!!! :eek:

How did you come up with a price of $100 to build that knife, when you don't even know things like whether or not your saw will cut the steel?!?!? (which it won't by the way).

Personally, I think the design looks like some ridiculous thing you'd see at the "As Seen on TV" store, but design is subjective and you probably wouldn't like what I make....

But my unsolicited advice is that you back WAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAY up, and start doing some reading and research and enter this craft with a much simpler knife.

I can say I want to go out and build a monster truck Ferrari in my shop with a screwdriver and a palm sander.... all for $500, but that doesn't mean it's going to happen. ;) :)
 
Like I said, this knife won't be my first, or the most complicated thing I've made out of steel.

Never had cause to know if my saw would cuts steel. Only had it a few months, and no steel to use it on. I've been using my grinder, and have always used a grinder or torch. The saw was a gift with no lit, and I suspected that it wouldn't cut carbon steel, and I was right. I know that there are band saws out there that cut engine blocks in half. So, my perception got a little convoluted.

I can make the shape. I need to know more about steel to use, and I think I've been pointed in the right direction there, and I'm tied in with a few people who know more about heat treating than the data sheet tells me.

I didn't really come up with $100 price of a knife. I want to keep cost as low as possible. The other guys that want one are all on hard times just like the rest of us.
 
cbr900son said:
http://njsteelbaron.com/ hard to beat price selection and service
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Not my experience. took over a month to get my order and I got something completely different then what I ordered when I did get it. Was a simple 36 inch order of s30v. I was compensated with two 24 inch lengths but that sort of messed up my plans for the projects I was going to work on. I might give him another chance in the near future though once Also's new site is up and running.
 
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