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Ohhh. My hand hurts just looking at those drawings.

I won't say anything about your design concepts, familiarity with tooling, or anything else but...
I do applaud your can-do attitude, and your seemingly mild manners. Good luck to you.
 
lol, that's what I thought about the concept art. :)

Thanks.

Your smithing is exquisite. I love the blend of rustic and refined. It's very difficult to blend those elements, and you do it very well.
 
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For anyone still curious. My machinist friend doesn't have any drops that will work well enough for me to just grind down to shape. SO, we'll be ordering some bar stock. I'll be hard pressed to turn a prototype by my camping trip (next weekend), but I may be able to get it done.
 
He gave me a couple of mild steel drops about the right size. I'll be able to make a couple prototypes out of that, and test the shape and form, but I'll be bringing my sharpening kit camping.
 
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11" OAL rough cut, some filing, taking it to the belt grinder tomorrow. It doesn't even have any defined edges and it chops and stabs as well enough already (as seen in the picture!). I made the 14" OAL version too. I'll post pictures of both once I have them polished, blued, and the handle wrapped in para-cord. I drew the outline free-hand, while looking at my sketches, hoping to make some variation between the 2 knives, and my sketch. I varied a little too much on the larger version, it's grip is too odd. The grip on this one is dead on for m liking. I'll be able to make a template after some use with the 3d version.

I took a little more off the pinky cradle. I used it as a pry-bar (as I intend to) and it bent, so I made it a little stubbier, and was unable to bend it after that. I haven't made up my mind about the saw back. I can do something that will work, but cutting the teeth by hand with files would take all day just for one. I still like the idea of a teardrop nail puller or a whir breaker. Not sold on the idea though. I like the look better without them. I'm open to any suggestions!



I may make Rock's deadline after all. Not Plexiglas though, not high carbon either. I hope have it in D2 or 1080 in another couple weeks.
Thanks all!
 
Belt sander made a nice edge. Taking a polishing wheel to it tomorrow, then bluing it. I have high hopes.

I gave the larger version to my friend to form the edge. He does some metal work and a lot of tinkering. I hope he comes up with some different nuances to shaping the edge than I would have. We'll see what elements from both knives pan out.

I had an epiphany about forming the saw back. I'll let you guys know how it turns out.
 
Do you often pull nails in the field? Just something that changed my perception; I was reading about a guy who ditched his SAK for hiking when he realized he had never opened a bottle of wine and nothing on his gear had screws on it. It sounds like you are making it fit your specs based on what you're going to use it for. Don't add stuff just to add stuff.
Also, when you tried to use it as a pry bar, it was in mild steel, right? If so, of course it bent, it's mild steel.

Good on you for making your desire a reality. I sincerely hope it turns out to work perfectly for you. I have to say I'm definitely intrigued to see it in action.

Edited to sound less snarky. I need more sleep.
 
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Pull nails while hiking/camping? Honestly, never. I would like some sort of finger hold up at the body of the blade, and from that it would be easy to make it a nail puller, just in case. It may be too much going on though. A hole large enough for my finger may weaken the blade/change the balance too much. I really like the way it is weighted.

The shorter, stubbier pry-bar holds up great in the mild steel, and it feels a little better. I think it's a winner. I'm going to try for a wire breaker and some saw teeth today. I'll be taking videos of the prototype in action this weekend. I expect to ruin the blade entirely, but hope to skin some small game, and split a little wood first.

Thanks for the support.
 
I put the saw back in. I don't like it. Takes too much out of the strength of the blade. I'd do a serrated back if someone wanted it, but I'm happy with a straight back.

The saw teeth are going to be where I break this thing.

I have it polished (relatively, I need some more power tools :D) and blued. I love it!
 
Prototype BHX01

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Polished (emory, didn't bother fine polishing on this thing), blued (missed some spots [I used brake cleaner and a rag and didn't get all the emory off, would love any suggestions there!]) and wrapped. I'll go tear it up this weekend. LOVE it so far! I think the crude saw-back will do, but I don't like the reduced spine strength.
 
Barry, here's a couple of things I see so far design wise:
1: Why the huge forward guard? You aren't stabbing with this. I suspect it will get in the way. Same with the rear guard. If you smoothed it out down to a small nub, your retention would be similar but you'd still be able to comfortably use it in a reverse "pulling towered you" type of grip.
2: I'm still very very skeptical that the saw back is going to do anything for you except cause problems. Take it and test it, but I think it will cause issues. And I doubt it will be very effective at all.
3: What's the thing on the tip of the spine? Gut hook?

Please don't take my comments the wrong way. I am not being mean. I can't wait until you try this thing out. Prototype development and testing is fun!
 
1. It's a knife, for wilderness survival, it may very well have to stab at some point, and I don't think it'll get in the way, but if it does, I'll reduce the size. It's only just bigger than my finger. This is the 7" blade version, not the 9" (to give an idea of scale). I was persuaded to add a large quillon by a friend of mine who has been stabbed twice, and stabbed someone once. He said that all 3 knives had small quillons and the hands of his attackers slipped, as did his own, which is why, in all 3 cases, the stabbing hand was sliced, and the recipient lived. SO, at his urging I designed the largest front hand guard I felt comfortable with. I'll see if he was right (initial thrusting into wood is comfortable). The original design had sloping winged quillons, like those on the top of the designs linked. I could be happy with something more reciprocal to the pinky cradle.

2. I don't like the saw back. I love the idea of a saw back, but for the overall ruggedness of the blade, I feel it takes away more than it adds. I figured out how to make them more triangular/effectgive, but don't like the saw enough, as it is, to put forth the effort.

3. Yes gut hook. Forming it was easy, sharpening has proven problematic. I got it 'sharp' but not razor sharp, but I don't think it's as razor sharp as it should be. I'm open to any suggestions on sharpening the gut hook, as well as suggestions for making a more useful/consistent saw-back.


I'm going to add some sort of striking surface to the pommel. Probably just a squared end.
 
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WOW, ok, so I stumbled on the Puma White Hunter today. I haven't seen one since I was a kid. My dad had one and I thought it was one of the coolest knives I had ever seen. It REALLY struck me how much like my final design it is. There are significant differences but I think that knife I loved as a kid influenced me sub-consciously. The large quillon, the ridged thumb rest, the pot belly, sloped nose. It's all there.

In the end though, my design will be cheaper, heavier, longer, bigger belly, with prybar and more function oriented grip. With similar purposes in mind (wilderness and big game for starters) similar features couldn't be avoided. I also hope to keep the price down to about 1/4 of a Puma. Had I realized how similar they were, I may not have carried making my knife this far, but having come this far, I'll go the rest of the way for the differences that exist. Each design has advantages and weaknesses compared to every other design.

Great knives. It just strikes me that I never thought of them as being so like mine until after I made one.


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Made some traps and shelter and what not this weekend. A serrated or saw blade REALLY speeds things along and really helps you get those clean flat edges you need for triggers and such.

I still don't like the strength loss by a saw back, but I think I need a serrated back to fill out the knife as a do it all blade.

Do serration wheels work pretty well? Where can I find a decent one?
 
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