The BladeForums.com 2024 Traditional Knife is ready to order! See this thread for details:
https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/bladeforums-2024-traditional-knife.2003187/
Price is $300 $250 ea (shipped within CONUS). If you live outside the US, I will contact you after your order for extra shipping charges.
Order here: https://www.bladeforums.com/help/2024-traditional/ - Order as many as you like, we have plenty.
Sounds like fun to me as well. The USFS video "The Crosscut Sawyer" is a great watch for anyone who hasn't checked it out already. I think it does a great job of explaining the forces that cause bind and other issues.
SO.....who's going to be the first to post a bunch of photos and/or video of a felling with a Puget Sound axe????? There's a 3.5lb Kelly Perfect double bit or a yet to be named vintage boy's axe for the first person to post it up!! (Must be your own work and must be done after this post.) Just for fun!!!!!:thumbup:
More pics to follow but consider it done.
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Pegs, did that fall backwards on you????????????????????
So did you cut the felling cut below the directional or did that tree misbehave?
So Pegs....
I was wondering, how does the PS chop compared to say a jersey or a Connecticut, etc?
Good, bad, better, or indifferent...
So Pegs....
I was wondering, how does the PS chop compared to say a jersey or a Connecticut, etc?
Good, bad, better, or indifferent...
I was wondering that, too. By the way, I don't think I have the strength to keep swinging that axe like you did without sliding one had toward the head before each swing. With a 4-pound head on a 40-some inch haft, swinging like that is impressive.
Thanks for that, Steve. Now the long handles make sense. I see stumps of trees like that all the time. Many still show the springboard notches. But I never really considered what it would take to notch one. An axe with longer reach would mean you wouldn't have to move the board so often. Our NW Doug Firs are pretty hard stuff so I can understand why they used the narrow bits.
I have a couple too including this true temper stiletto
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I was a little surprised recently when I learned that TT made axes for Stiletto. I have a couple Stilettos that I really like, a DB and a 4 pound Michigan which still needs hanging. The DB has about the hardest steel of any axe I've filed. It's holds its edge great even limbing thru hard knots. Plus I like that Stiletto was one of the few west coast axe makers (when they made their own).
I was waiting for the saw part; Puget Sound all the way to the end!!My buddy uploaded a couple videos to youtube.
[video=youtube;BSEf3fXug5w][video=youtube;wbGHsTuoBX0][video=youtube;uBGNIQMT990]
Do you still have that last one SQ, if so can you see any marks that line up with those on the opposite side?A couple more pics. In the first post of this thread I showed 3 axes.
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The one in the middle is a 1938 Sager Chemical Axe. The one on the right turned out to be a Kelly-Charleston. The one on the left is a beat up no-name. So which one did I pick for this project? Bearhunter knows. Of course I picked the no-name basket case.![]()
My reasoning was this, it had little to no collectable value so I felt free to treat however I saw fit. It was also the widest of the 3 axes, measuring 12-3/4" bit-to-bit. The long narrow head exemplified the Puget Sound felling axe.
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I bought a new handle from Tennessee Hickory. It had a nice grain but it was thick as a bat - needed some major spokeshave work to get down to the thickness and shape that I like.
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The eye was well-aligned to the head so it hung pretty straight.
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I found only a faint remnant of a makers stamp on this axe. It looks like a row of tear drops forming an arch. If anyone recognizes this please let me know.
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