New Steel CPM MagnaCut available today

I had 2 bars in my cart and then there was a issue with my card so I held off to ask the wife what one I could use and then it looks like @Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith fixed my budget problem for me.

Larrin Larrin can someone make a update post when the other goes up for sale. I want at least a piece that I could make a chef or even a petty for myself minimum. July is just so far away and I have time now.;):(:mad::p:D
 
Willie71 said:
How is it better? They test nearly identical in toughness and wear resistance?
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I find Cruwear to be a lot easier to sharpen (deburr specifically) than 4v for whatever that's worth. Probably more a testament to my lack of skills as a sharpener than the steel though, lol.
 
Willie71 said:
How is it better? They test nearly identical in toughness and wear resistance?
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Ovet 4 years of using both steels in the woods, I find 4v to have better edge stability. I have sent out sample knives on multiple occasions and 4v has always been the favorite. Yes I understand they are close in the test but there is something special about 4v that makes it shine above CPM Cruwear in actual field use.
 
Seedy Lot said:
Ovet 4 years of using both steels in the woods, I find 4v to have better edge stability. I have sent out sample knives on multiple occasions and 4v has always been the favorite. Yes I understand they are close in the test but there is something special about 4v that makes it shine above CPM Cruwear in actual field use.
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Larrin might have something to say about that .... but maybe it could be more about processing in the mill (grain structure, homogeneity, etc, etc) than composition??
 
Hey Larrin Larrin . Would it be possible to have someone like Diondamascus.com weld a copper Damascus San mai on this and still get a heat treat to work?
 
Seedy Lot said:
Ovet 4 years of using both steels in the woods, I find 4v to have better edge stability. I have sent out sample knives on multiple occasions and 4v has always been the favorite. Yes I understand they are close in the test but there is something special about 4v that makes it shine above CPM Cruwear in actual field use.
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I would suspect not optimum heat treat on the cru-wear. I cannot tell the difference between the two other than the cru-wear has better corrosion resistance.
 
DevinT said:
No, recommended austenitizing temperature is 2050’f.

Hoss
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I know this is probably a really stupid question but are there alloying additions that can increase the melting temperature? I think most bronze has a lower temp. I have a friend with a roller setup and was thinking I could try to make a custom alloy. It doesn't need to be perfect because it's just for looks or at least that's what my limited mind came up with. I have been making some bronze and it has been fun and would love to try something made for a purpose.

With that copper mai do you know the max temperature that it can be heat treated at? Is it as simple as just being below the melting temp? I was looking at possible cores for it and both CruForgV and 4V can be heat treated below melting temp.
 
Storm W said:
I know this is probably a really stupid question but are there alloying additions that can increase the melting temperature? I think most bronze has a lower temp. I have a friend with a roller setup and was thinking I could try to make a custom alloy. It doesn't need to be perfect because it's just for looks or at least that's what my limited mind came up with. I have been making some bronze and it has been fun and would love to try something made for a purpose.

With that copper mai do you know the max temperature that it can be heat treated at? Is it as simple as just being below the melting temp? I was looking at possible cores for it and both CruForgV and 4V can be heat treated below melting temp.
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Not sure
 
Got my bar the other day. Thinking about cooking up a few coupons for figuring out spring temps. Anyone else HT'd any yet? I'm wondering can the envelopes go into the oven cold as it comes up to 2050* then hold for 20 minutes or is it recommended they go in as the oven hits 2050* then soak for 20 min.? Larrin Larrin
 
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I usually recommend letting the furnace equalize at the target temperature prior to putting in the steel. Start the timer for the hold after the furnace rebounds.
 
Couldn’t find on their website listed. Maybe not received Would love some .09375 and some .125.
 
I called SB a few days ago after finding nothing on the website, and they didn't seem to know anything about it....

so I'm not sure whats happening on that end

let's hope more is produced quickly :)

PS - have any of you worked it under a hammer? please report?
I know it's higher in chrome than typical forging steels, so I'm curious
 
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
I was thinking Rc 62, near zero edge thickness, sharpen at 10-15DPS. I'll definitely do a post on my results.
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And this is for very thin super slicers. Nobody has jumped on you to say you're crazy yet, so that's a good sign! I know from one of our previous discussions that you like to run AEB-L a little softer than I do (the impetuosity of youth, perhaps? :oops:), so would I be right in assuming that your plan is a conservative one? I'm just trying to discern the hardness I should request from Jarod when I send my blanks off to him. There will be mostly EDC and outdoor knives in there in 5/32" and 3/16" stock, but I do like to grind my bevels thin... Just wondering if you, @JTknives, @DeadboxHero or anyone else might be so kind as to offer some further insights. Thanks!
 
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