New Truck advice requested

SPXTrader said:
add a 75 to 100 shot of NOS,
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Adding nitrous oxide injection to a bone stock truck is a terrible idea, especially a 75hp to 100hp shot of NOS (NOS is a company, the gas used is called nitrous oxide or NO2)

There are also 3 different types of nitrous injection.

Dry-the NO2 is simply sprayed into the air intake. Since the gas is cold, the mass air flow sensor tries to add more fuel. This may or may not result in a good A/F mix and will definitely run lean over 50hp shot or so. Doing a 75 to 100hp shot would most likely ruin the engine

Wet-The nitrous is mixed with fuel and then sprayed. This negates the fuel problem and allows you to run the same fuel map whether or not you are using nitrous. This is much more expensive and requires modifying the fuel rails. Here a 75 or 100hp shot could be used, but may need other modifications (I am not an expert on modifying Tundras)

The final type is direct injection but that is much too expensive.


Also the typical way to trigger the nitrous is through a sensor which can tell when the accelerator is a pushed all the way down. The Tundra has a drive-by-wire system and doing this could result in nitrous being injected into the manifold while the throttle is closed due to the truck shifting gears. This may result in a detonation or other engine damage.

But you knew all that right?:rolleyes:

The typical modifications to look at first are ECU/fuel map, exhaust, intake and then go from there.
 
spyder10 said:
Adding nitrous oxide injection to a bone stock truck is a terrible idea, especially a 75hp to 100hp shot of NOS (NOS is a company, the gas used is called nitrous oxide or NO2)

There are also 3 different types of nitrous injection.

Dry-the NO2 is simply sprayed into the air intake. Since the gas is cold, the mass air flow sensor tries to add more fuel. This may or may not result in a good A/F mix and will definitely run lean over 50hp shot or so. Doing a 75 to 100hp shot would most likely ruin the engine

Wet-The nitrous is mixed with fuel and then sprayed. This negates the fuel problem and allows you to run the same fuel map whether or not you are using nitrous. This is much more expensive and requires modifying the fuel rails. Here a 75 or 100hp shot could be used, but may need other modifications (I am not an expert on modifying Tundras)

The final type is direct injection but that is much too expensive.


Also the typical way to trigger the nitrous is through a sensor which can tell when the accelerator is a pushed all the way down. The Tundra has a drive-by-wire system and doing this could result in nitrous being injected into the manifold while the throttle is closed due to the truck shifting gears. This may result in a detonation or other engine damage.

But you knew all that right?:rolleyes:

The typical modifications to look at first are ECU/fuel map, exhaust, intake and then go from there.
Click to expand...

Yes, I knew all that. I've been playing with NOS for years. I've run dry 150 shots with no problem. Yes, they are easier on the combustion chambers when they're sprayed wet. I also mentioned proper installation of all the window switches. I also mentioned a dyno tune. I mentioned learning how to drive and use a car/truck equipped with NOS. I am certain STeven can find a few places in southern California that can do this, even to your specifications. I mentioned it to him as an alternative to adding a supercharger.

So yes, I knew all that. I've run NOS on cars since 1972. I know what I'm talking about. Thank you for your contribution. :rolleyes:
 
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SPXTrader said:
I mentioned it to him as an alternative to adding a supercharger.
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Not that I am entirely sold on the idea, but the TRD Supercharger is a dealer installed option that is covered for 3 years.

Besides the heat, which is understand, what other problems could be experienced?

This vehicle is not intended to tow anything, but it must emphasized, when fire season comes and we have to evacuate again....anything in my house that is valuable and will fit goes in the back of my truck...it's a big deal. The setup will include a camper shell and internal carpet kit.

Have been driving a pickup for the last 14 years and have no intention of changing that any time soon.:)

Looked at the new F150....not even remotely in the running....I think it's butt ugly.

Best Regards,
 
Even though the dealership is quite a ways away from where I want it to be, went and looked at the Dodge Hemi Quad cab yesterday, and it IS available with buckets(using the Build my Own on the website up until last month did not offer that option)....willl keep you all posted as to my final decision...it's between the Ram and the Tundra....test driving the Ram on Sunday....what is the speed limiter set at, and can it be chipped?.....would like a top speed capacity of 150 mph...might have hit 120 mph going downhill with my Dakota many times:D

Best Regards,

STeven Garsson
 
Not familiar with the Ram, but top speed would be regulated by a combination of rear gear, max RPM, and fuel cut-off. Pulling timing might be an issue also.

Hey, you're in Southern CA! Ya ought to be able to find a speed shop that can give you a good, safe tune. But as I mentioned, and good tuner will have a dyno. There are a lot of variables to consider. I'd personally shy away from a mail order tune, even if they are available.

The old Ford Lightnings would certainly scoot!

[youtube]HjeqE7DZcsw[/youtube]
 
SPXTrader said:
Not familiar with the Ram, but top speed would be regulated by a combination of rear gear, max RPM, and fuel cut-off. Pulling timing might be an issue also.

Hey, you're in Southern CA! Ya ought to be able to find a speed shop that can give you a good, safe tune. But as I mentioned, and good tuner will have a dyno.
Click to expand...

I have access to a number of top flight speed shops, that is true....and they have dyno's....that is how I knew that my Dakota numbers were dismal(135 hp at the rear wheels).

Best Regards,

STeven Garsson
 
Superchips has a tuner available for the Ram. I have it.

The user can adjust Speed Limiter(140mph), Rev Limter(6200rpm), and Disable MDS. You can also select from three performance settings based on which octane level of fuel you want to use. There is a 87oct, 91oct(performance), and a towing setting.

The performance setting basically advances the engine timing, removes torque management, and increases transmission line pressure allowing for VERY firm shifts(like a shift kit) and guys are getting around 15-20rwhp on the dyno from the timing advance.

This is an actual plug n play tuner and not a chip, it uses your OBDII plug to reprogram the PCM. It also reads engine trouble codes so dealerships can't screw with you.

Plus the tuner is updated with firmware online, and superchips is always adding features and improving the tunes.
 
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