No more liner / frame locks for me !

R.G

R.G

Joined
May 24, 2013
Messages
341
After my spyderco tuff frame lock fail on me as I pulled it out from a wood log when I was out in the woods with my kid I finished with the frame locks / liner locks folders.
back locks , triad locks , axis locks , compression lock ???
I need good recommendation for a tuff folder with tuff steel , heavy duty lock and good wear resistance ( not aus8 )
It doesn't have to be stainless but I don't want it to rust just by looking at it for 5 min ( like o1 steel )
The adamas for example had side to side play after 2 months of use ( bike trips , 4x4 ...), but after my injury I look back for it and I think I can live with side play and no lock failure
thanks for your opinions / recommendations
Ron
 

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Ouch, bummer! That's why I like flippers, they act as a guard to protect the finger if the lock fails. You should be able to fix the play in the Adamas by tightening the pivot right? The axis lock
is not jostled when you grab the knife like a frame lock is, but if it gets sloppy loose that could make it less safe.
 
get a fixed blade. locking knives have limitations.. what exactly did you do to make it close on you?
 
If you succeeded in making an Adamas give you should seriously consider going fixed blade. If you're hell bent on folders You already know the answer to your own question meaning you'll have to settle for sharpening those AUS8A blades more often.
 
Sorry to hear you got bit (more like getting chomped down on) by a knife. It happens. I wouldn't swear off of frame/liner locks, I would just suggest taking this as a learning experience. Treat all folders like a slipjoint, and if there is a chance force can be applied to the spine go with a fixed blade. Fixed blades have no moving parts that can fail. Something like an Izula 2 will do everything you could need, and the Izula/Candiru are just compact versions in case you want size variations.

I can't really think of anything built tougher than a Tuff, only things that are equal. Cold Steel make them strong, but they only use AUS-8, so that is right out.
 
Natedog351 said:
Seems like abuse to me and not a lock types fault
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I agree. OP I think you need to be more mindful with your tools and understand that folders are not meant to chop and pry wood. if you expect fixed blade performance out of "hard use folders" those will not be your last stitches from a knife accident.
 
Honestly, the "hard use" folder is the worst thing to happen to knives since not naming steels. I don't care how "tough" you call your folder, it is still weaker than a fixed blade. Solid steel beats prices of steel wedged against each other every day. The blade can be thick for prying, but anything else is dangerous (chopping primarily). The purpose of a folder is space conservation at the cost of strength. It is convenience over function.

I'm not saying never carry a folder, I am saying know its purpose. Err on the side of caution. Better to carry two knives (fixed and folder) than lop a finger off.
 
dkb45 said:
Sorry to hear you got bit (more like getting chomped down on) by a knife. It happens. I wouldn't swear off of frame/liner locks, I would just suggest taking this as a learning experience. Treat all folders like a slipjoint, and if there is a chance force can be applied to the spine go with a fixed blade. Fixed blades have no moving parts that can fail. Something like an Izula 2 will do everything you could need, and the Izula/Candiru are just compact versions in case you want size variations.

I can't really think of anything built tougher than a Tuff, only things that are equal. Cold Steel make them strong, but they only use AUS-8, so that is right out.
Click to expand...

Exactely and truth be told I don't get the hate towards AUS8(a) in affordable folders. I'm not saying I'd like an AUS8a short sword but for realistic use of an EDC / Tactical knife 57/58 HRC AUS8a is plenty fine. Heck, a Vic SAK hovers around 55 HRC and that'll do just fine for everyday use.
 
I have always had a distaste for liner/frame locking knives, maybe it's the fact that you have to move the blade towards your finger or thumb to unlock. Any other locking mechanism does not require you to have flesh in the path when disengaging the lock. Just my opinion, Lockbacks are hard to beat, ball bearing locks are my favorite but aren't as prolific. I would stick with a fixed blade, tri-ad, or axis/ball bearing lock.
 
NetshadeX said:
Exactely and truth be told I don't get the hate towards AUS8(a) in affordable folders. I'm not saying I'd like an AUS8a short sword but for realistic use of an EDC / Tactical knife 57/58 HRC AUS8a is plenty fine. Heck, a Vic SAK hovers around 55 HRC and that'll do just fine for everyday use.
Click to expand...

If the steels weren't just fine, they wouldn't be huge sellers worldwide.
 
This almost reads like a thread designed to provoke discord. If you're reliant on mechanical devices as tools then a level of familiarity and responsibility is necessary. If you're just bored or tired of a type of knife, just change to another. This almost reads like blaming the hammer when hitting one's thumb driving nails.
 
Stick with a fixed blade (pun intended) R.G. when using a knife in that fashion. Your asking a folder to do the job of fixed blade. Chalk it up to education via experience, and be thankful you didn't loose your digit. Don't blame all locking systems. They're not all made the same, nor are they all at fault for your injury.
 
Razdrazchelloveck said:
I have always had a distaste for liner/frame locking knives, maybe it's the fact that you have to move the blade towards your finger or thumb to unlock. Any other locking mechanism does not require you to have flesh in the path when disengaging the lock. Just my opinion, Lockbacks are hard to beat, ball bearing locks are my favorite but aren't as prolific. I would stick with a fixed blade, tri-ad, or axis/ball bearing lock.
Click to expand...
What does putting your finger in front the blade to disengage a liner/frame lock have to do with lock failure if your disengaging a liner/frame lock then there's no reason for the blade to close on your finger.
ALL lock types can fail I don't know where everyone is getting the idea that an axis lock is going to hold any better to high pressure on the spine of the blade
 
Natedog351 said:
What does putting your finger in front the blade to disengage a liner/frame lock have to do with lock failure if your disengaging a liner/frame lock then there's no reason for the blade to close on your finger.
ALL lock types can fail I don't know where everyone is getting the idea that an axis lock is going to hold any better to high pressure on the spine of the blade
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...because the axis lock has been repeatedly demonstrated to hold up with high pressure on the spine of the blade.
 
I agree with some of the others, sounds more like misuse of the tool rather than a bad lock...
 
Did the lock fail structurally, or was it accidentally disengaged?

I really do like the AXIS lock, but in more than a few occasions I've been using it for something quite "robust" and had to be mindful to not disengage the locking stud accidentally. I think this could probably happen with most types of locks and depending on how peope use them and so on and so forth...

Personally I've moved away from folders and prefer fixed blades these days. But as far as folders go, a simple back-lock is a good idea too me. For the way I find myself using a knife, I think it would be really unlikely for me to accidentally disengage the lock on one. But I wouldn't swear off liner or frame locks either, except maybe for what you were using them for this time in particular...
 
fishface5 said:
Ouch, bummer! That's why I like flippers, they act as a guard to protect the finger if the lock fails. You should be able to fix the play in the Adamas by tightening the pivot right? The axis lock
is not jostled when you grab the knife like a frame lock is, but if it gets sloppy loose that could make it less safe.
Click to expand...

If you have a tight grip on the Tuff, shouldn't it press the lock in tighter and if the lock did fail in some manner, with the tight grip wouldn't this design act the same?

I just checked and with a tight grip, like most would have when using a knife hard, if the blade did fold the un-sharpened part of the blade would fold on your index finger and stop the blade. Of course I don't know what grip the OP was using when cut. Plus, my Tuff has a very tight lock, so if it can slip I would suppose any frame lock with a steel insert might do the same. But, I really can't see how mine would do that, unless I was doing something rather foolish like using it super hard and holding it in a sloppy grip.

33wbfr8.jpg
 
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Razdrazchelloveck said:
I have always had a distaste for liner/frame locking knives, maybe it's the fact that you have to move the blade towards your finger or thumb to unlock. Any other locking mechanism does not require you to have flesh in the path when disengaging the lock. Just my opinion, Lockbacks are hard to beat, ball bearing locks are my favorite but aren't as prolific. I would stick with a fixed blade, tri-ad, or axis/ball bearing lock.
Click to expand...

My thoughts exactly. I know there are excellent liner and frame lock knives available, but I prefer other designs.

After carrying a liner lock for an EDC I realized that I was developing a bad habit of releasing the lock with my thumb and then slapping the knive spine on my leg to close it. Bad idea if you don't coordinate your thumb withdrawal precisely! Axis lock I can close one handed without any digits in the way.
 
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