No snarky title

[Guyon]

Yeah, pretty much . My every day pack doubles as my day hike pack. I just drop a couple items and add a couple different items. I pack heavy no matter the situation really.

This is the direction I've gone as well. I have two set-ups though.

One rides in my truck as a get-home bag and impromptu day pack. Impromptu as in "Screw it. I'm going hiking right now!"
This pack has less expensive gear. More G.I. Issue than titanium expensive.

The other set-up has the more expensive, but lighter gear. Lately, this stuff shifts around between my Haglof's pack and the newer Camelbak HAWG.
If I'm going on a more extended hike, this is the gear I take.

They were kind enough to include a washer.

BONUS!!!

 

[ac700wildcat]

That suck Jerry. Hopefully a patch will fix it up. Looks like a lot of tread still on that tire.

 

[Jerry D.]

BONUS!!!

I KNOW!!!! RIGHT?

That suck Jerry. Hopefully a patch will fix it up. Looks like a lot of tread still on that tire.

Yea, I just bought the set back this past Fall. :grumpy: Fortunately though, a uni-seal patch/plug combination should do the trick well especially since the injury is smack dab in the middle of the tread. I'm just debating on if I want to be real lazy and take some time out of the office and drag a co worker up to a shop to drop it off today or if I just want to swap the tire out in the parking lot and put it off until this weekend...

Changing a tire in my trained office monkey clothes, then waiting to drop the tire off at the shop this weekend while I make an escape to the REI, gun store, or Gander Mt. just down the street from whichever shop I go to is winning to be honest.

 

[CamH_16]

I just calipered the steel and its actually .265" thick not 1/4" thick. Even better for me..... But does steel normally vary in thickness from what you order?... maybe i didnt say that right i mean, when you order a certain size steel does it often come a little thicker? Does it ever come a little thinner?

The 52100 I have is a little over .200" thick and I ordered it at 3/16" or .187" and yeah, steel can come thinner, I have some 52100 in 1/8" also but it comes up at about .100"

 

[Guyon]

Indeed I will be Trade. I havnt officially anounced it yet. But yeah, the money has been paid, and there's a few special projects in the works. One other thing I will say here before anywhere else. I will be closing my shop to new orders very soon in order to not only catch up with existing orders, but to have time to make stock for the Blade show. I hate it. But I had to do it last year and I will have to do it again this year. Just not enough hours in the day for me. Look for more info on my sub forum in the next few days.
Also, if any. Of you upstanding Beckerheads are planning on attending the Blade show, contact me about hooking you up with a VIP pass.

Okay, so this means I need to get on an order list so I can pick up a knife at Blade, correct? I've been thinking about a custom hunter from you.
I don't want to control every little detail. My thought is to give you some general ideas and just turn you loose. That way, it's fun for both of us.

 

[Eero]

When I bought my new wood cutting board it was reccomended that I oil it. I'm not experienced with this stuff at all and have so basic questions:

#1 is why exactly is this suggested. I know it will darken it but I'm wondering if it will serve a purpose beyond appearance.
#2 what kind of oil should I use and how much?

Here is a shot of the board (I posted one eariler in the snark I think):

 

[Chameleonbear]

Morning.
I kicked some breakfast butt today.

You know what your sausage needs? Some bacon to go with it!

 

[Chameleonbear]

Hey Bisucit, you did the Couch to 5k thing right? I thought I remembered you mentioning it.

 

[TMHunt]

Okay, so this means I need to get on an order list so I can pick up a knife at Blade, correct? I've been thinking about a custom hunter from you.
I don't want to control every little detail. My thought is to give you some general ideas and just turn you loose. That way, it's fun for both of us.

That sounds like a pretty cool deal. might wanna get a hold of me the sooner the better, I got a lot of money going out right now ordering lots of materials, If I need something special, if I know what it is i still got time to be selective for the nicer pieces.

 

[mrn8]

When I bought my new wood cutting board it was reccomended that I oil it. I'm not experienced with this stuff at all and have so basic questions:

#1 is why exactly is this suggested. I know it will darken it but I'm wondering if it will serve a purpose beyond appearance.
#2 what kind of oil should I use and how much?

Here is a shot of the board (I posted one eariler in the snark I think):

Oil keeps butcher blocks for cracking or warping when they go from being wet to dry constantly. It doesn't really serve a protective purpose to your food. If I understand correctly, wood cutting boards are naturally anti-bacterial on their own.

I would be shocked it that board warped, but I could see pieces exposing "checks" or cracks over time if it's not cared for.

Generally, food grade mineral oil is all you need. You can get that in bottles or wipes at many department stores. I saw a Rustoleum butcher block product at Ace Hardware not too long ago either. I have no experience with it, but thought I'd mention it's out there.

 

[daizee]

When I bought my new wood cutting board it was reccomended that I oil it. I'm not experienced with this stuff at all and have so basic questions:

#1 is why exactly is this suggested. I know it will darken it but I'm wondering if it will serve a purpose beyond appearance.
#2 what kind of oil should I use and how much?

The oil helps seal the wood so that water and bacteria do not soak in and cause problems as much. It also makes it easier to clean. If you get your board wet with water a lot, it will expand, contract, and crack. And allow more food particles into the grain, which causes sanitary problems. Since you'll be washing the board with soap and water, you'll be taking away the natural oils regularly.

Use a light or medium mineral oil, which can be had from the pharmacy. It should be food-grade, like the kind use as a supplement. Don't use vegetable or animal oils which can go rancid. Rub it in so it's a bit wet, then wipe off the excess and let dry. I'd do it every other day for the first week, then maybe weekly, then as-needed. It's more important on the cutting surface than the rest of the board, but the whole thing will dry faster after washing if the underside is a bit more waterproof. And since the underside will probably see less soap and scrubbing, that surface is pretty low maintenance. I like rubber feet under mine.

 

[bigghoss]

Yea, I just bought the set back this past Fall. :grumpy: Fortunately though, a uni-seal patch/plug combination should do the trick well especially since the injury is smack dab in the middle of the tread. .

When I bought my '84 K5 blazer it came with a set of Toyo M55 traction tires (expensive) but in the stock size which is about 28" tall. On a fullsize truck those tires looked horrible but tires cost money so I just lived with it. Then one day I picked up a screw in the tire. The shop patched it but it bulged out a day later. Priced a set of larger tires but that was even more money so I just go two new ones identical to the old. Then a week later I got another screw, luckily in one of the old tires. Ended up with a brand new set of tires I didn't want.

Tell ya what though. Those Toyos wear like iron and are great on slick winter roads.

 

[Guyon]

Hey Bisucit, you did the Couch to 5k thing right? I thought I remembered you mentioning it.

Yeah, I did the Zen Labs 8-week one. There are a bunch of 9-week ones too, but I only had eight weeks until the 5K I wanted to run.
Basically just interval training. You alternate walking and running, with more walking at first. By the end, you're just running.
There's a pretty good uptick in week 4 if I remember right. After that, it's a little smoother.

Don't get behind and try to make up ground by running back to back to back days. Give yourself time to rest muscles, joints, tendons, etc.
I made this mistake around Week 6, and I wound up running my 5K on an aching knee. The last 100 yards were a real PITA.

 

[crimsonfalcon07]

I just calipered the steel and its actually .265" thick not 1/4" thick. Even better for me..... But does steel normally vary in thickness from what you order?... maybe i didnt say that right i mean, when you order a certain size steel does it often come a little thicker? Does it ever come a little thinner?

Usually comes a bit thick for me. I haven't ordered from Aldo in a while. Got screwed by his system a couple of times, and he didn't seem particularly interested in making it right, although he seems like a cool guy and chatted with me some. S&B has been taking good care of me since then. I pretty much only work in CPM 3V these days though, and Aldo can't seem to get that in stock. Gotta make swords! Got 4 more blades to finish preliminary grinding on, and then I can send the batch out for HT, including your blades, WW. That chopper design feels sweet. I think it's going to be a sweet blade. I just got my mini-mill set up too. All kinds of possibilities with that bad boy. I'm pretty stoked to use it.

 

[Guyon]

That sounds like a pretty cool deal. might wanna get a hold of me the sooner the better, I got a lot of money going out right now ordering lots of materials, If I need something special, if I know what it is i still got time to be selective for the nicer pieces.

I have some ideas, but I'm going to poke around your site and picture threads to shore them up as far as materials.

I really like this hunting blade by a guy name kos up in Canada. You have any interest in making a blade exactly like one of his?

 

[james terrio]

My new Victorinox Climber

I scoffed at the idea of custom scales on a SAK... but I gotta admit, that looks gorgeous. :thumbup:

Then, on the other hand, I think that if we got stranded in the woods somewhere, I wouldn't have my tarp, etc.

I would never head into the boonies on purpose without a knife and a tarp and some kind of water bottle. I'd honestly rather be without a compass or fire-starting kit... although of course I'd prefer to have them all

Have to say im impressed with Aldo's service on this transaction.

Aldo Bruno and Chuck Bybee are the Ethan Beckers of cutlery steel purveyors. I say that with utmost respect for, and sincere gratitude to all three of them.

I just calipered the steel and its actually .265" thick not 1/4" thick. Even better for me..... But does steel normally vary in thickness from what you order?... maybe i didnt say that right i mean, when you order a certain size steel does it often come a little thicker? Does it ever come a little thinner?

Unless you buy precision-ground steel (which I recommend for various reasons), barstock from reputable dealers will generally come oversize. That allows you to grind off the mill scale/rough saw marks and get down to clean, "virgin" steel in the size you actually need.

Jim Beam Black is really quite good; definitely worth a try if you like a "classic" bourbon. The extra aging brings out the flavor and reduces the harsh overtones of regular JB.

 

[TMHunt]

I have some ideas, but I'm going to poke around your site and picture threads to shore them up as far as materials.

I really like this hunting blade by a guy name kos up in Canada. You have any interest in making a blade exactly like one of his?

Lol, I would have to respectfully decline. 710 might hook you up. I think there pretty good buddies! ...... (Sorry JD, couldnt resist! )

 

[Chameleonbear]

Yeah, I did the Zen Labs 8-week one. There are a bunch of 9-week ones too, but I only had eight weeks until the 5K I wanted to run.
Basically just interval training. You alternate walking and running, with more walking at first. By the end, you're just running.
There's a pretty good uptick in week 4 if I remember right. After that, it's a little smoother.

Don't get behind and try to make up ground by running back to back to back days. Give yourself time to rest muscles, joints, tendons, etc.
I made this mistake around Week 6, and I wound up running my 5K on an aching knee. The last 100 yards were a real PITA.

I was planning on doing the 9 week one. I'm not planning on running a 5k, however I want to be able to. I'm starting doing a couple things together on Feb 1. Trying to get into a shape besides round.

I scoffed at the idea of custom scales on a SAK... but I gotta admit, that looks gorgeous. :thumbup:

It does. It really does. Surprisingly so even. I never would have expected it to look that good.

I would never head into the boonies on purpose without a knife and a tarp and some kind of water bottle. I'd honestly rather be without a compass or fire-starting kit... although of course I'd prefer to have them all

I have a small (8'x8' maybe) tarp that I keep tucked into one of the pockets of my satchel I have a knife (or two) always on me, and I keep 2 (or 3... maybe even 4) near me at pretty much any given time. I keep a small FSK in my satchel as well including a firesteel AND a bic. Cause sometimes cheating will save your life...

 

[Guyon]

When I ordered my Hennessey hammock, I upgraded to the larger Hex rain fly.
I carry the standard sized fly that came with the hammock in my pack. It's roughly 6'x9'.

 

[iwouldhurtafly]

Does anybody make a carbon steel Trapper knife anymore?

Looks like your request may have already been answered, but Case makes a CV Trapper and mini trapper. Their CV steel is actually purty good although sometimes case's fit and finish is not all that great. Stress the "sometimes" LOL. On a user type blade its not anything that would hurt the function at all. They can be found online for around $30 bucks for the full size trapper and its a dang good knife. Been carrying around with me for awhile now. A CV sodbuster kicked it out of the pocket for awhile, but I just had to go back to it. The blades are not flat ground, but full hollow ground so it makes one heck of a good cutter. If you are curious about other case carbon steel blades they are not always the best about saying, "this is carbon, this is stainless," but the model number will have a CV in it if its carbon, SS if its their trusharp stainless. On their website they will have a "store finder" map that you can see if their is a local vendor near you. I get mine from my old hometown hardware store. Their are only a few things more nostalgic than that

Otherwise if you are wanting something higher end, fancier, better fit and finish, and a good variety check out GEC Knives (Great Eastern Cutlery). They make a lot of good traditional slippys, and 9 times out of 10 they are good ol 1095 carbon steel. Some are in stainless, and some are even in O1 tool steel. They have traditional style trappers and even trappers that have a wharncliffe blade instead of the spey. Its called an improved trapper if I remember right. GEC is good they are just more spendy.