"No unnecessary weight in the poll."

An adze or even a broad axe never experiences the hard use that a felling, bucking or splitting axe endures. What you can get away with on a adze handle won't fly on an axe handle - not even close.

perfectaxehandles2.jpg

Doesn't come close to the curves in the adze handle you posted earlier. And that bottom one is weak. It ain't gonna last. Just because someone made one doesn't mean it's a good idea.

Adze%20handle%20curves.jpg


Like this very deep English felling axe (or so the originating website calls it) on a straight handle.
250-201494111229_original.jpg

I can't help but notice that this axe design hasn't exactly caught on yet. Lots of crazy things have been tried.

You keep digging yourself a deeper hole in this thread, Benjamin. I know you want to sell unbalanced axes but maybe you'd be better off finding a niche for them instead of trying to affirm their equivalence to balanced poll axes.
 
Haven't been on the forum for a while, it's great to see that some things haven't changed. It's great to see your still around Square Peg and still know what you are talking about. I wonder if 42 has learnt to chop yet and it's great to see what gets said about us Aussie axemen. Seems that as strange as we might be, we continue to teach the Americans a thing or two about chopping both in the USA and here in Aus. Keep up the fascinating conversation, it is very entertaining.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
Doesn't come close to the curves in the adze handle you posted earlier. And that bottom one is weak. It ain't gonna last. Just because someone made one doesn't mean it's a good idea.

I don't see how you're able to judge the strength without seeing the run of the grain. The appearance in profile can be very misleading, and what you see in the shoulder could be the results of a typical thick shoulder reducing. Also, the curves are very close to the adze example. However, please refer to what I actually asserted:

"Also, other tools have been made with very curved handles without issue, and many axes besides. With good grain alignment there's minimal runout of any significance."

I did not say that an axe must have a handle as extreme as that adze I posted. I said that very curved handles are feasible, and that with good grain alignment, there will be minimal runout beyond the superficial. This is a straw man.



I can't help but notice that this axe design hasn't exactly caught on yet. Lots of crazy things have been tried.

I posted that one as an example of one where the tendency for wobble would be severe--not as what I would consider to be good design. However, I'd like to see one in use in its original context before writing it off entirely as there may have been some rationale behind it that I'm not aware of.

You keep digging yourself a deeper hole in this thread, Benjamin. I know you want to sell unbalanced axes but maybe you'd be better off finding a niche for them instead of trying to affirm their equivalence to balanced poll axes.

Again with the financial motivation jab? How many times do we need to put that to bed?? I make less on the Italian axes I sell than the conventional American and American-style ones, and have to jump through all sorts of hoops to get my hands on them. If it weren't for the fact that I carry them because I actually like them from a performance standpoint I wouldn't be carrying them. Have you used them?

I'd like to think that I've been very frank about the strengths and weaknesses of poll-less axes. They offer a different spread of features than polled axes do, which can be useful for certain functional contexts--to the point where Australians were will to, in some cases, actually moved from using polled axe designs to using ones without, because they considered them better suited to their situational needs and wants.

I most emphatically am NOT saying that poll-less axes are universally superior. I am also saying that polled axes are not universally superior. But they offer strengths and weaknesses, and there are a range of different ways that the size of the poll may be made larger or smaller in accordance with the context of use for the tool and the priorities of the designer/user. How is that digging myself a hole?
 
Interestingly, a friend of mine who's an accomplished Native American craftsman did up these two axes the other day, both being very similar heads of nearly identical weight, which were altered by him to make them more suitable for his work. The one on the left is on a modified Gransfors SFA handle while the one on the right is his preferred handle type for a bush axe for his purposes. He's a man who very much relies on his axe to pay his bills. I think his preference may stem from the way that the presentation of the axe can be so readily altered depending on the grip point.

14732335_1378749212136429_5011195785562081063_n.jpg
 
Of course, but just because something is outside of your comfort zone doesn't necessarily mean it's a bad idea, either. :)
 
ICS- I did not mean to criticize Aussie axemen. I assume you are talking about competitive chopping when you talk about teaching us Americans a thing or two about chopping. In my case, yes, 40 yrs ago when I competed I was handed my hat by Ron Hartell (New Zealand or Tasmania I think) more than one time. I also like your competition axes, just not for everyday, all day, axe work. Besides, contrary to what was said, you did not completely eliminate the poll. Sorry, but I still think you guys are a little strange, not that there's anything wrong with that.
 
Read through the whole post... Interesting... I liked the attack of the Bush Axe... the most interesting to me. Wonder what the head weight is as opposed to the person using it and the lengths of the axe handle. I'm gearing up to finish a couple of spalted hickory axe haft's I started carving last weekend. I split the 8' x 4" D tree with a chainsaw and hewed it down past the core to make 2 handles so far. A friend of mine who is into Axes and woodwork and Greenwood work laid it out the longitudnial cut for me. He said the tree was a little small but it would do. He suggested making the whipped base of the log be for my new/old poorly hung R handed broad axe. He also said you will get used to any handle, for what that's worth.

So maybe I should post this in my own thread, but it seems related...

I'm hanging an old plumb hatchet. First off qualifications and specifics...I'm a woman about 5'8" was a certified journeyman carpenter since lets see 1985, started getting into greenwood working this spring... want to build a timber frame shop.

The Plumb weighs about 2 lb. I think. Cutting edge 3 3/4", the length is 5 3/4", and 2 3/4" poll. I'm guessing 2 lb. with the balance point 3 1/2" from the tip right through the front 1/8" of the eye. I was thinking of hanging it long for a pack axe/to carry in my truck and canoe mostly for bush work. I hewed out a handle that'll be 19-20" straight and thin (7/8" x 1 1/2" unfinished), there's enough stock to do a fawns foot.

R handed broad axe 6 1/4" long with 5 1/8" straight blade length, 2 1/4" poll, about the same weight as the plumb maybe a bit heavier. The balance point with a thin s-curved handle is 3 1/4"s from the cutting edge when I balance the side of the blade on a piece of metal. When I hang it with a plumb line from it's current s-curved handle its (the CoG) is closer to the eye. At this point I use it mostly like a carving axe for hewing out these handles/newly sharpened it slices and dices quite nicely with one hand, but it feels really heavy in the front, but doesn't wabble after striking.

Unfortunately I made the bent on a bit on the short side looks like only 14", with a half to 3/8" bow (laterally). This one is also stockier than the other one roughed out in the middle 1 X 1 3/16".

Just thought I'd bounce it off you guys till I have time to talk to Roy Underhill about how to proceed.

If you want to see some pics you can check out my instagram page.
https://www.instagram.com/carabnr/
 
Welcome to the forum (from a fellow carpenter).

I like the look of your spalted hickory. As a carpenter I'm sure you're aware of the lost strength of the wood from the spalting. Might not be a problem for a hatchet handle as it would be for a full size axe. Do you have plans to stabilize it? A good long BLO soak might give it some added strength and stop the work of the fungus if that hasn't been done already. Adding a thinner like mineral spirits or turpentine can increase penetration of the BLO.

I look forward to seeing your progress.
 
Welcome to the forum (from a fellow carpenter).

As a carpenter I'm sure you're aware of the lost strength of the wood from the spalting. Might not be a problem for a hatchet handle as it would be for a full size axe. Do you have plans to stabilize it?

Thanks Square Peg,
I was thinking about grinding off some copper to stabilize the fungus before oiling it. I think I'll try BLO after that. I've been using Walnut oil, and Carnauba Wax.

The thing I'm thinking about most is if I just need to go longer with the broad axe and how to deal with the fore and aft curve for 2 handed work with the bent shaft.

Hope my terminology is right.
Any thoughts or suggestions will be appreciated.
Should I start another thread?
 
I honestly don't know what an "axe's balance" is. It seems like a feely thing that frequently gets tossed out but never explained.

This explanation seems to be primarily for a felling axe.

30336177426_63e3ea8062_c.jpg


There are other points on an axe that it could be balanced from. An axe could be balanced vertically on one's nose. Does that make the axe a "balanced axe"?

This is a great post for several reasons. I like the last paragraph. I can't count how many times I've seen some clueless person find the balance point of a knife and, holding it there, proclaim that the knife has good balance. Every tool has a balance point. That doesn't make it well balanced.

But I really want to talk about the meat of this post and that's the image and its explanation of balance when referring to a felling axe. When making that horizontal swing you don't want the axe twist down because it's lacking a poll and is unbalanced. And we've shown that trying to compensate for the unbalanced axe with a screwy haft isn't practical or durable.

Example, when I'm hewing my axe has an offset handle. I've mentioned before that this makes the axe want to twist in your hand. You're constantly expending effort to counteract gravity.

Now imagine doing this all day......
Falling%20Crew%20%231225.jpg

...with an unbalanced axe. A logging crew often worked 60 hours/week. Think about doing that with an unbalanced axe. You'd fall behind the guy working next to you. The camp boss would notice right away. One day you'd pick up that other guy's axe and give it a few swings. You'd feel the comparative ease of swinging it right away and realize why you couldn't keep up. Next payday you carefully put aside Papa's axe that he brought with him from France or Italy and you'd buy yourself a blocky American poll axe or later on, a double bit. And if you didn't you wouldn't be around long.
 
Should I start another thread?

Yes you should.

Thanks Square Peg,
I was thinking about grinding off some copper to stabilize the fungus before oiling it. I think I'll try BLO after that. I've been using Walnut oil, and Carnauba Wax.

The thing I'm thinking about most is if I just need to go longer with the broad axe and how to deal with the fore and aft curve for 2 handed work with the bent shaft.

Hope my terminology is right.
Any thoughts or suggestions will be appreciated.
Should I start another thread?

What you have is a broad hatchet not a broad axe. There's no reason why a broad hatchet couldn't be outfitted with an offset haft for hewing. Typically they come with a straight haft and are used for lighter work than hewing. They were sometimes referred to as a 'stump axe' because they were used for shaping wood atop a stump used as the chopping block. I've tried hewing with a straight handled broad hatchet and it's awkward. It's also difficult to avoid 'barking your knuckles'. That's what the offset is for. I'm gonna stop here for now. Please do start another thread.
 
...To get beyond any appearance of speculation and conjecture, can you give some specific examples that demonstrate the following claim:

The desire to tilt forward or back is significant (not negligible, not insignificant).

...

Like this very deep English felling axe (or so the originating website calls it) on a straight handle.

250-201494111229_original.jpg


...The front/back thing will always be pretty insignificant except in the heaviest axes and even then you're not holding it there long. It's more of the triangulation thing that can start causing issues when you have deep bits on handles that aren't offset to at least minimize triangulation if not fully eliminate it.
....


Please keep in mind that the following is meant as constructive criticism.

Your response is still largely speculation or conjecture. (If you would argue that it's not speculation or conjecture, then for starters can you tell me how you determine whether the "desire to tilt forward" is negligible or non-negligible? What quantitative values do you have for this "desire to tilt forward" for the different cases you present, what values are negligible, and at what point does it become non-negligible?)

This is not a critique of you (although presenting conjecture as fact could be criticised), it's more about the limitations of the concepts you present such as "axle" when applied to 2-dimensional motion, for example. You're using some Center of Gravity concepts where other concepts would do a much better job. This results in convoluted "explanations" such as:

"...The handle may be in the same position as before, but the tool is going to desire to pivot forwards because the axle is now rear of its prior position. Thus, the actual travel of the axle has been moved back by however many degrees. In adding the weight and yet holding the handle and edge positions constant you have essentially moved the axle backward but then pushed the tool forward again in order to retain the original edge position. If the user were to hold it in the same position as before they will have the axle sitting rear of where it was prior, and when it arrives at the target it will, again, have the axle rear of where it was prior."


There are better, and simpler, "tools" to use for describing what you want to describe. Here's a suggested approach, starting with the axe being held by one hand at the usual end of a straight handle:

-------------------

An axe is held with the handle making an angle α with the horizontal. What the hand feels has two parts: (1) the weight W of the axe pushing downward (in the direction of gravity), measured in pounds; and (2) a type of "torque" (more properly called a "moment") that's measured in foot-pounds. The "torque" is equal to the weight of the axe multiplied by the horizontal distance from the axe's center of gravity to the hand.

The weight of the axe stays the same no matter which position it's held, but the "torque" will vary. When the axe is held upright, with the center of gravity directly above the hand, the weight is felt but there is no "torque" (because the horizontal distance is zero). When the axe is held straight ahead and horizontal (with the center of gravity at the same level as the hand), the hand feels the weight W plus the "torque" (the weight W times the distance from hand to center of gravity, which I'll call H, the handle length). The "torque" is at its maximum when the axe is at this horizontal position, because the horizontal distance is at the maximum.

For example, for an axe where W = 4 pounds, and H = 36" (or 3 feet), when held as described, in the vertical position (90 degrees) the hand feels 4 pounds weight and zero torque, while in the horizontal position (0 degrees) the hand feels 4 pounds weight and 12 foot-pounds "torque" (since 4 times 3 is 12). Slowly moving the handle from upright 90 degrees to level 0 degrees, the hand feels the torque gradually increasing from 0 foot-pounds up to 12 foot-pounds.

It's relatively easy to calculate what the hand feels for any position that the axe is held (using some basic trigonometry), for any combination of Weight, Handle length, and center of gravity location. I made a quick spreadsheet this afternoon to do these calculations. For the purposes of this thread, with discussion of the effects of changing the location of the axe's center of gravity, I added a variable D for the distance the center of gravity is located from the handle (distance measured at a right-angle to the handle).

Now the effects of moving the center of gravity back one inch, or forward one inch, for example, can be determined, to remove the speculation and conjecture from such concepts as "the desire to tilt forward or back".

A quick example of some results:

W = 4 pounds
H = 36 inches

For the case where the straight handle axis is aligned with the center of gravity, the torque ranges from 12 ft-lbs (at 0 degrees) down to zero ft-lbs (at 90 degrees), but it's not a linear decrease:

Degrees----Ft-Lbs
0----12.0
22----11.1
45----8.5
67----4.7
90----0.0

For the case where the center of gravity is moved 1 inch forward (toward the bit), the torque ranges from 12 ft-lbs (at 0 degrees) down to 0.3 ft-lbs (at 90 degrees):

Degrees----Ft-Lbs
0----12.0
22----11.3
45----8.7
67----5.0
90----0.3


Comparing these two cases, the torque increases when the center of gravity is moved 1 inch forward (toward the bit), and the increase in torque ranges from zero (no difference at 0 degrees) up to 0.3 ft-lbs (at 90 degrees):

Degrees----Increase in Ft-Lbs
0----0.0
22----0.1
45----0.2
67----0.3
90----0.33

With this method, we can quantitatively estimate (instead of just making educated guesses) for the effects of different locations of the center of gravity, etc. And the terminology and methods are the same as used by textbooks and other sources. I will gladly share the spreadsheet, or formulas, or run more cases, if there is interest in this.
 
This is a great post for several reasons. I like the last paragraph. I can't count how many times I've seen some clueless person find the balance point of a knife and, holding it there, proclaim that the knife has good balance. Every tool has a balance point. That doesn't make it well balanced.

Agreed.


But I really want to talk about the meat of this post and that's the image and its explanation of balance when referring to a felling axe. When making that horizontal swing you don't want the axe twist down because it's lacking a poll and is unbalanced. And we've shown that trying to compensate for the unbalanced axe with a screwy haft isn't practical or durable.

Not true. All you need is good grain alignment to eliminate runout. It requires a larger starting piece of wood, but otherwise isn't any more work than making your own handle for a polled axe.
 
Read through the whole post... Interesting... I liked the attack of the Bush Axe... the most interesting to me. Wonder what the head weight is as opposed to the person using it and the lengths of the axe handle. I'm gearing up to finish a couple of spalted hickory axe haft's I started carving last weekend. I split the 8' x 4" D tree with a chainsaw and hewed it down past the core to make 2 handles so far. A friend of mine who is into Axes and woodwork and Greenwood work laid it out the longitudnial cut for me. He said the tree was a little small but it would do. He suggested making the whipped base of the log be for my new/old poorly hung R handed broad axe. He also said you will get used to any handle, for what that's worth.

So maybe I should post this in my own thread, but it seems related...

I'm hanging an old plumb hatchet. First off qualifications and specifics...I'm a woman about 5'8" was a certified journeyman carpenter since lets see 1985, started getting into greenwood working this spring... want to build a timber frame shop.

The Plumb weighs about 2 lb. I think. Cutting edge 3 3/4", the length is 5 3/4", and 2 3/4" poll. I'm guessing 2 lb. with the balance point 3 1/2" from the tip right through the front 1/8" of the eye. I was thinking of hanging it long for a pack axe/to carry in my truck and canoe mostly for bush work. I hewed out a handle that'll be 19-20" straight and thin (7/8" x 1 1/2" unfinished), there's enough stock to do a fawns foot.

R handed broad axe 6 1/4" long with 5 1/8" straight blade length, 2 1/4" poll, about the same weight as the plumb maybe a bit heavier. The balance point with a thin s-curved handle is 3 1/4"s from the cutting edge when I balance the side of the blade on a piece of metal. When I hang it with a plumb line from it's current s-curved handle its (the CoG) is closer to the eye. At this point I use it mostly like a carving axe for hewing out these handles/newly sharpened it slices and dices quite nicely with one hand, but it feels really heavy in the front, but doesn't wabble after striking.

Unfortunately I made the bent on a bit on the short side looks like only 14", with a half to 3/8" bow (laterally). This one is also stockier than the other one roughed out in the middle 1 X 1 3/16".

Just thought I'd bounce it off you guys till I have time to talk to Roy Underhill about how to proceed.

If you want to see some pics you can check out my instagram page.
https://www.instagram.com/carabnr/

No way I would use spalted hickory for a working axe handle. Just to much work for something that could snap at 90°. Hickory rots faster than any hardwood I know of.
 
...

Comparing these two cases, the torque increases when the center of gravity is moved 1 inch forward (toward the bit), and the increase in torque ranges from zero (no difference at 0 degrees) up to 0.3 ft-lbs (at 90 degrees):

Degrees----Increase in Ft-Lbs
0----0.0
22----0.1
45----0.2
67----0.3
90----0.33

...

Just a comment that the resulting maximum increase in "torque" for this case (0.333 ft-lbs) is about the same as holding a yardstick in a level position with a smallish banana resting on the yardstick 12" from your hand.
 
Just a comment that the resulting maximum increase in "torque" for this case (0.333 ft-lbs) is about the same as holding a yardstick in a level position with a smallish banana resting on the yardstick 12" from your hand.

Which would actually get surprisingly tiring if you were working all day fighting it.
 
Which would actually get surprisingly tiring if you were working all day fighting it.

Perhaps, but why would you be working all day fighting it? The maximum additional torque is at the upright position (90 degrees), when moving the axe a little more will reduce it to exactly the same as the first case. When the axe is at a 45 degree angle from the horizontal, there would only be a 2% increase in torque, decreasing to no increase in torque as the axe is lowered to horizontal.

That comment is another example of conjecture or speculation, presented as fact: "would actually get surprisingly tiring..."
 
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