Noah's Snark

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I've got that exact t-case behind an SM465 4 speed in my 49 y.o. Chevy.
I asked the mechanic who just saved my clutch linkage about swapping in an automatic. He asked, "Why?" 😁 I am just curious, I would like to re-gear the axles lower though.
 
tanglediver said:
I've got that exact t-case behind an SM465 4 speed in my 49 y.o. Chevy.
I asked the mechanic who just saved my clutch linkage about swapping in an automatic. He asked, "Why?" 😁 I am just curious, I would like to re-gear the axles lower though.
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My 79 Ford has the T18 manual trans. Granny gear in 4low is so slow it will stop in between engine pulses. I need to get some more work done to get her back on the road. I don't particular enjoy mechanical work, but thankfully these old girls are easy to repair if you can find parts.
 
Parts for sure!
I've heard good things about T18's, but I'm no auto mechanic.

Not much help to Daizee in his search for a new ride, unfortunately! 🤐
 
Hey Beckerheads,
Throwing it out there might be a trade offer for a BK 5 in the trade area…. Not sure if the request is off base.

Ron
Beckerhead #32
 
Will a Thneed be needed to cover that Chevy? Or would the Truffle Tree nature geek freak ecoterrorists come out and burn the Thneed on the Chevy?
 
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Super exited with this, like a kid on christmas day :D
Kelly Kettle Trekker

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Can't wait to use it :D
 
Now I have seen it all. The latest generation of Sloan IR faucets (the ones that come on when you put your hands under them) can be touble shot and set up by Bluetooth and a phone app.
 
daizee said:
really??
Is there a particular model of trailer frame/axle/etc. that one bolts them to?
Maybe I can save the bed and the leaf springs for knives... (poor truck 😢)
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A lot of folks just cut off the frame mid-cab, then use those frame rails to notch and create the hitch V. The only issue I have seen is the springs and shocks being overly worn, which causes the trailer to sway too much.
 
I suggest saving the bed and as much frame as you can - up to and including splicing in 3x4 angle to shore up the frame, then pick up a 3500# axle from Tractor Supply, Agri-supply, or whatever farm store you have up your way. a decent axle with springs and 5-bolt hubs should run less than $400, will be stronger than factory, weigh a chunk less, and have better ground clearance. With luck you can reuse the wheels off the truck.

as to brand of compact truck to harvest, pre-2012 Ford Ranger (Mazda B-series) is my preference -- they had a stronger/heavier frame than a 1500 Chevy/GMC.
 
I put old motorcycle coil-over shocks under our 30's Ford pickup bed trailer to help the soft leaf springs, that was back in the 80's. The axle situation is very odd, it was an old front, drop axle with welded steering knuckles. I bolted the bottom of the shocks to the steering knuckles. It's still there!

I would rather strip the sheet metal of the bed clean off the frame and start over from scratch though. New frame, new axle, not sure of which springs I'ld choose. Long truck springs flex way better than short, stiff, trailer springs.

YhOGCec.jpg


(I have been tempted to splice that bed onto the back of the Jeep.)
 
I'd be starting with the bed from my 2008 Colorado, which is the motivation. Frame is rotted and won't pass inspection. I'd just remove it from the frame and have the rest of the truck towed to the junkyard or to the local auto program at the high school. Fabricating a frame is beyond my skill and interest. if there's something that have some adapter plates bolted to it to mount the frame, that would be cool. Re-use the brake lights as designed. Obviously it would be hilarious to keep the same wheels, but I don't want all the weight of a the truck axle, differential, and who knows what else due to the 4WD parts. And brakes I wouldn't be using, so. This would be towed behind a modest CUV, mostly likely. The homebuilt trailer regulations in RI seem manageable, but I haven't found the exact safety inspection details yet.
 
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