Noob's Second "First Knife"

D

dmcmd

Gold Member
Joined
Jan 1, 2026
Messages
99
OK guys, given that I made a significant error with my first first knife and the pin holes, I decided to make a second first knife. I'm still going to use the first one to practice bevels, but hopefully this second one will turn out OK.

Again, it's that same 3/16 AEB-L. I figured I should go ahead and use it to practice even though it's too thick.

I used Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith idea of using a drill bit to make the radius on the finger choil. I used a 1/2" drill bit. I also used some hand files I bought from Harbor Freight 2 days ago.

A4edALZh.jpeg


I realized I was way too cavalier about the pins and holes and such in the handle on my first attempt. For this one, I marked out the pin holes in solidworks and transferred them to the blank with a punch.

FoRSl2lh.jpeg


Here are the two blanks next to each other. The top one has been heat treated at 1925 and tempered at 350 in my kitchen oven (I used a thermometer and made sure the temp was right). The bottom one has the center-punched pin holes in the handle. I have 3/16 416 stainless rods on order from Jantz that should be arriving tomorrow (on the recommendation of Richard338 Richard338 ).

iPjSBTFh.jpeg


Anyone see any issues with where I have the pins marked out?

Thanks everyone!
Darren
 
It may help to look at where the pins are located in a production kitchen knife.
 
It’s not necessary though, as shown here.
IMG_7543.jpeg
 
The other thing to consider is what style of sculpting will be on the handle scales.
 
If it’s octagonal, you’ll want the pins to be centered in the “flat.”
 
Sharp & Fiery said:
The other thing to consider is what style of sculpting will be on the handle scales.
Click to expand...
I hate to say this, but I have literally no idea what I'm going to do in terms of sculpting the scales. I was kind of hoping that would become self-apparent once I make them out of wood, but I honestly don't have a plan for that. But they're definitely going to be more western style than japanese. So not octagonal. More like my store-bought chef's knives.
 
dmcmd said:
I hate to say this, but I have literally no idea what I'm going to do in terms of sculpting the scales. I was kind of hoping that would become self-apparent once I make them out of wood, but I honestly don't have a plan for that.
Click to expand...
That’s ok! Learning is half the fun. :) I haven’t made a kitchen knife before, so you’re a step ahead of me. :)
I’ve rehandled them and made a few hunters and pocket fixed blades, but that’s it.

Have fun and keep the end goal in mind when you’re making decisions like pin locations. :)

I’m sure another maker will come along that makes kitchen knives with more experience and great advice for you. :)
 
Honestly, the pin holes in your first knife are not the end of the world, especially for a kitchen knife. If it was a hard use chopper it’s a different story, but something that will live in the kitchen it’s fine.

On your first knife, I would use the furthest right hole and the hole all the way to the left, to the right of the two holes at the end of the tang. Those look generally centered and would serve you well.

For your second knife, you generally want the pins to be equi-distant from each side of the knife. Having them be in a straight line is not as important as having them be “centered” on the handle as they are laid out.

Nice work for your first and second so far!
 
I actually like the inside curve on the first knife better. As for the pins in the first knife, put a pin in both of the holes at the butt. Or pin in top and thong liner in bottom.
 
The front pin in that last image looks off to me. If it were me, I would pivot the entire pinhole array a few degrees counterclockwise around the center pin. I would also make a rounded heel, as sharp heels are, in my opinion, a bit of a safety hazard.

1781064999612.png
 
Nothing at all wrong with first knife. Use only these three holes and treat the rest as weight reduction only. Handle will be secure and aesthetic pleasing.

1781065397342.png
 
lukusamongus said:
actually like the inside curve on the first knife better
Click to expand...

If you are talking about the curve down from the index finger groove to the heel: 100% agreed, as this lets the user get his or her hand even closer to the edge, which is great for control. Of course, I would still put a radius on the heel of that knife too.

1781066008238.png
 
I settled on a hole pattern. My 3/16 stainless rods came in today, so I center punched new holes and then center drilled them. Then, before I drilled the 3/16 holes, I gathered a bunch of 3/16 drill bits and drilled holes in cut offs to see which bit was the best. It's amazing the variability in my crappy drill bits. I found one that makes a hole that fits the rod pretty well and used that to drill the knife blank.

EyiI1Wch.jpeg


Then I wrapped the blank in stainless foil. Managed to cut myself for the first time on this stuff. I imagine that won't be the last time.

e6ddp1zh.jpeg


I've run out of time today to do the heat treat. My plan is 1925 for 15 minutes, then into the freezer for 2 hours, then let it get to room temperature and put it in the oven at 350 for 2 hours, then cool under water, then back in the oven at 350 for another 2 hours. So that's a full day right there. I'll get it done on Friday. Anyone have any suggestions other than what my plan is? This is AEB-L by the way. I know I could go a little higher than 1925, but the gain is small and the risk of overheating it could ruin it.

Thanks,
Darren
 
I cannot recommend enough to place some sort of heat sink in the kitchen oven to help regulate temperature swings. My wife has this huge, heavy stone baking tray (I guess that's what it's for), and I keep it in the oven at all times.

I made the same mistake with my first knife. I bought a 4' bar of 1/4" thick W-2 tool steel and made one hunting knife from it. Didn't have a grinder at the time, so I used files to do the bevels! Meanwhile, I still have almost 3 1/2' of that bar left, and one of these days I plan on making a wakizashi out of it.

Can't wait to see your finished knife!
 
Stuart Davenport Knives said:
I cannot recommend enough to place some sort of heat sink in the kitchen oven to help regulate temperature swings. My wife has this huge, heavy stone baking tray (I guess that's what it's for), and I keep it in the oven at all times.

I made the same mistake with my first knife. I bought a 4' bar of 1/4" thick W-2 tool steel and made one hunting knife from it. Didn't have a grinder at the time, so I used files to do the bevels! Meanwhile, I still have almost 3 1/2' of that bar left, and one of these days I plan on making a wakizashi out of it.

Can't wait to see your finished knife!
Click to expand...
Thank you! I forgot to mention I do have our pizza steel in the oven. Maybe I’ll add some more metal as well…
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top