Not sharpening a new and VERY Queen #9 Stockman

I'm probably the odd man out here, but getting a new knife that is not sharp is no big deal to me because:

1) I like to sharpen knives - I find it therapeutic. In today's fast pace society it's good to relax, sit back and sharpen knives.
2) As I posted earlier, I use diamond stones, so to re-profile and sharpen a full size Queen Trapper takes about 30-45 minutes.
3) I tend to use different bevels on blades depending on their intended use. In the example of the Trapper, I have a more acute bevel on the spey than I do the clip.

The only thing that bothers me about a new knife are when there are fit and finish issues. I can sharpen blades, but it's hard to fix gaps in backsprings, blade play, non-centered blades, etc. That's the kind of thing that irritates me.
 
I've pretty much just resigned myself to the fact that my GECs are not going to be what I would consider sharp. To be honest, though, I don't use most of them, and didn't buy them to use. Otherwise I wouldn't go through the trouble of getting serial numbers, much less low ones.

I have new Case Cheetahs that have edges that look like miniature saws. By comparison, I'd rather have dull than coarse.

I do sharpen the knives I use, though. Most recently, I've been using my Tidioute lockback, that needs sharpening now, and my Buck Vantage Avid, which is close to needing sharpening.
 
joe-bob, for me, if a knife edge is coarse because it was actually ground all the way to the edge and left a little ragged (due to burrs), I can live with that. And it is ordinarily easily remedied with finer grits.

On the other hand, a smooth dull edge with a fat bevel is a sign of much more work ahead.

(At least that's what I usually find to be the case.)
 
I don't have any Queen knives, so I don't know how they come. I have been considering a Mountain Man, though.
 
joe-bob said:
I don't have any Queen knives, so I don't know how they come. I have been considering a Mountain Man, though.
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The one I have in D2 is a slicing demon. As I recall, (and I may be wrong), I don't think I had to put in that much work to tune up the edge on that one.
I just now tested it after seeing your post.
 
joe-bob said:
I have new Case Cheetahs that have edges that look like miniature saws. By comparison, I'd rather have dull than coarse.
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I've noticed the newer Case knives come pretty heavily burred at the edge. That's pretty easily remedied on a ceramic stone, then I strop with green compound on leather, then on bare leather. The existing edge bevel on the Case knives (at least most of the post-2000 ones) is a good one, in my opinion. It's only the burr that needs dealing with. Once that's out of the way, these are some of the best slicers I have, for what's essentially a 'factory edge'.
 
Is the edge grind the last step of the process? If so, that may be where part of the problem comes it. It's probably easier to hold a knife at a higher angle and put on a thick edge, rather than lower the angle, and raise the risk of putting scratches on that newly polished blade. Just a thought....
 
GregFL said:
I'm probably the odd man out here, but getting a new knife that is not sharp is no big deal to me because:

1) I like to sharpen knives - I find it therapeutic. In today's fast pace society it's good to relax, sit back and sharpen knives.
2) As I posted earlier, I use diamond stones, so to re-profile and sharpen a full size Queen Trapper takes about 30-45 minutes.
3) I tend to use different bevels on blades depending on their intended use. In the example of the Trapper, I have a more acute bevel on the spey than I do the clip.

The only thing that bothers me about a new knife are when there are fit and finish issues. I can sharpen blades, but it's hard to fix gaps in backsprings, blade play, non-centered blades, etc. That's the kind of thing that irritates me.
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I am with you all the way on this one. I own about a thousand knives. I don't recall any of them being as sharp as I liked. I play some tunes and sharpen away to suit me. Those are the knives I carry. The safequeens I have no intention of sharpening anyway. Once you get it sharp, (guess what) if you actually use it, you will have to sharpen it again! I am very comfortable with the whole sharpening issue. By the way, I saw a fixed blade knife from Boker's Argentina operation which had a blade edge roughly equivalent to a schoolboy's wooden ruler. Remarkable, considering some of Boker's awesome German knives.
 
I bought four GEC's last year. They are as dull as butter knives. They should be ashamed to sell products like that to the public.
 
Ever since I gathered a complete slew of sharpening equipment, I have been forgiving when it comes to factory edges. It just takes the right knife, one that you really like, that you would actually want to take the time to sharpen.

I had to forgive queen, since they make the Dan Burke Barlow; my current favorite slip-joint. I am sort of in a love affair with the thing -I carry it ever day. If I were going to be a "one knife guy," that little Barlow would be it:p.

From DMT's XXC to their XXF and with a little stropping paste, I put a really nice edge on it. It took a fair amount of elbow grease and patience to deal with that D2, as I am sure many of you know.

When the job is all over and done with, you will be satisfied. At that point, you can put your name on it too:cool::thumbup::D.
 
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I recently came across a Case Swayback Jack in CV that had a very dull factory edge on the wharncliff blade. I guess it can happen with every manufacturer.

The reputation for dull edges has kept me from Queen and I have a pretty good assortment of sharpening supplies. I don't have much for D2 though and I would have to lay out some cash for that prior to owning a Queen.

They have some good looking knives though.
 
lwt210 said:
I recently came across a Case Swayback Jack in CV that had a very dull factory edge on the wharncliff blade. I guess it can happen with every manufacturer.

The reputation for dull edges has kept me from Queen and I have a pretty good assortment of sharpening supplies. I don't have much for D2 though and I would have to lay out some cash for that prior to owning a Queen.

They have some good looking knives though.
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Don't let a factory edge sway you from a Queen. Sometimes you even have to dress the back of the blade where it hits the spring to keep your pockets.
Even the 1095, once you get your edge you'll be a happy camper.D2 will take on a patina over time and is very rust resistant.

I'l be camping next week and this ones going in my pocket, er' filling my pocket.
(insert photo for affect)
P1010048-1.jpg
 
My Case SBJ in Pocketworn Red Bone came with different angles on the bevels. One side is steeper than the other. While I was able to get it reasonably sharp, I will have to get it fixed because it bugs me. Previously I had no coarse sharpening stones. Just picked up a 6" coarse Norton stone & will start working on the bevel profiles. If I'm unable to get it right I will send it off to someone who can. I love the knife though. Outside of the mismatched bevels everything else is great.
 
navihawk said:
I'l be camping next week and this ones going in my pocket, er' filling my pocket.
(insert photo for affect)
P1010048-1.jpg
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I've seen your Mountain Man before and was so impressed, I picked one up. It arrived a couple days ago ... smooth opening, no blade play and solid lockup. Very impressive.
 
Thanks Greg. It does have a nice sound to it. I can't wait to hear it in the woods. It'll have an echo. I found this one in the swap thread. Feels fairly sharp.You'll have to post it up.
 
It is to Queen's discredit and loss of sales to send out poor factory grinds.

That said......

I buy Queens knowing that I will spend some time getting a good edge
How much time?
10 minutes per blade
I use the DMT Aligner jig, and each blade takes about 10 minutes to get to very sharp
I start with E Course and step up one by one to E Fine

For me it is not a big deal


But there again, I resharpen all my knives when I get them no matter which manufacturer
 
neeman is right on , even the best factory knives need work. the only exception i've found is the ffg enduras. dennis
 
neeman said:
It is to Queen's discredit and loss of sales to send out poor factory grinds.

That said......

I buy Queens knowing that I will spend some time getting a good edge
How much time?
10 minutes per blade
I use the DMT Aligner jig, and each blade takes about 10 minutes to get to very sharp
I start with E Course and step up one by one to E Fine

For me it is not a big deal


But there again, I resharpen all my knives when I get them no matter which manufacturer
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As do I. I can't remember ever getting a knife and NOT putting my own edge on it.

If I do go the Queen route, it will be in 1095 steel.

Like I "need" another knife. I'm tripping over the things now. :D
 
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