Not sure what to think of Fallkniven...

I just emailed Fallkniven about the uneven lamination and got a very rapid response: Hi,

In general, we accept variations from the all perfect symmetric ground solution as long as the edge still is formed by the powder or VG10 steel. Largely asymmetric ground blades are rejected.



A problem in using laminate blades is that the lamination lines become visible only when the blade get polished which is the final step in the production. Should we reject blades which aren’t 100 % perfect with regards to a symmetric grinding, very few blades would be accepted and the knives left would become so expensive that almost no one would consider to buy them.



We make several blades as laminates and the good reason is that such blades become much stronger and cause less problems for the customer. The negative matter is that the lamination lines seldom are all symmetric but, as a manufacturer we have accepted that as a cosmetic detail with no negative function.



Best regards



Eric Hjortberger


Kinda not that satisfied considering many have said that theirs is perfect, but I still don't see it affecting so the function so I don't care how uneven it is.
 
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I just looked at my F1 which is a real looker with the ivory micarta handle and there is a small variation (2 mm max) between the two sides but I don't consider it a big deal one way or the other.
 
HardTripper said:
Wanted small, stainless, no choil, lefty sheath, and affordable. I think anyone can agree F1 is the best choice with those specs.
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Ah, well those requirements weren't mentioned in the thread. A stainless Mora would also fit those specs if you got a different sheath for it, which I'm sure you could find for relatively cheap from any number of makers on the forum. I'm a lefty too, and I hate how most sheaths aren't lefty friendly. With a Mora I just clip it on and it's backwards, but whatever. I might get a custom sheath for it at some point. With an ESEE or Becker the sheaths are reversible at least (with the MOLLE backing on the ESEE). Aside from the Mora you could look at Queen and GEC's fixed blades. Queen has some nice fixed blades in D2 for under $60. D2 is practically stainless. I haven't gotten mine to rust yet and I don't oil it at all.
 
The F1 is an attractive knife. I wouldn't say it's as attractive as a custom knife with attention to every detail, using the best steel and material handles, but it is an attractive knife. It appeals to me in a artistic functional sense.

It chips. Mine has twice in over 4 years I owned it. The chip was only truly noticeable when I ran my fingernail down the edge. Sandpaper and a mouse pad removed the chip and keep the edge super sharp. I don't have to carry a stone with me, just a mouse pad cut 3x8 and a sheet of wetdry. I've used the F1 with no intentions of keeping it pristine. Fearless in its use in dirt, wood, water, it digs up rocks, it scrapes paint of metal, it does whatever I ask it to do and all I have to do is run it over some sandpaper and it's ready to go again.

I have better knives in this size and I use them often. But I'd be lying to myself if I said they out perform the F1 buy anything more then the slimmest of margins. I like them more because of aesthetics and a percieved exclusiveness more then anything else.

If someone is looking for a "the best knife ever" to sit in their safe, this isn't it. There are much better options worthy of investing a lot more money into then this knife. If someone is looking for a great user, this is an option. Not everyone likes the same things.

Buy the knife, use it, if you dont like it toss it. I'm confident you can sell it on the forums at a minimal loss.
 
Fanglekai said:
Ah, well those requirements weren't mentioned in the thread. A stainless Mora would also fit those specs if you got a different sheath for it, which I'm sure you could find for relatively cheap from any number of makers on the forum. I'm a lefty too, and I hate how most sheaths aren't lefty friendly. With a Mora I just clip it on and it's backwards, but whatever. I might get a custom sheath for it at some point. With an ESEE or Becker the sheaths are reversible at least (with the MOLLE backing on the ESEE). Aside from the Mora you could look at Queen and GEC's fixed blades. Queen has some nice fixed blades in D2 for under $60. D2 is practically stainless. I haven't gotten mine to rust yet and I don't oil it at all.
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If they werent mentioned how can you quote them? Seems like they were, right there.
 
HardTripper said:
If they werent mentioned how can you quote them? Seems like they were, right there.
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See posts #19 and #20. You didn't mention what you wanted until after I posted about ESEE, Becker and Bussekin in #19. My post #63 offered suggestions based on the requirements you enumerated in #20. Those requirements were not in place when I made post #19, which is why I said the requirements weren't in the thread. They were not in the thread when I posted #19.

Enjoy your knife.
 
meanwhile said:
It isn't if you write something like "Is it possible that the chopping board and not the pineapple as the problem? For instance, did you use a granite chopping board?"

But if you write "I call bullshit!" then people are going to get testy. If you don't get this, you may want to get tested for mild autism. Seriously.
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You felt the need to continue off-topic and quote me, you must also feel that I have “insulted” A.L.

Well, thank you for your concern, I am not autistic or even mildly so.

Calling BS is a relatively normal slang in some corners of the world, even the poster claiming I insulted him used the same term and given the manner of his post I felt it to be an appropriate responce.

Again I fail to identify any insult.


meanwhile said:
- If you'd done a google search you'd have seen that chipping with F1's is a widely reported problem in all sorts of situations where chopping boards are not involved.
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Oh yes! the internet facts...

I am not in denial of the occurrence of chipping of Fallkniven edges, I am however w.r.t. the circumstances posted in #25 which IMO is just a troll post.

meanwhile said:
- A knife shouldn't chipped if used with a granite chopping board; early blunting from rolling should be the result. Chipping would only reasonably occur if you did something like chop at the edge of the board.
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I look forward to your empirical evidence of Fallkniven edges and granite chopping boards.
 
I just think VG-10 can chip easy. I have an endura and it chipped a tiny bit after use. Easy to sharpen out, but it happened.

Still think you'd be better served with a swamp rat. It would take all of your worrying away. Their warranty is uncanny. If you go crazy batoning granite and somehow snap your blade or do some major damage; they will replace it.
 
I already have the knife so suggestions while appreciated are useless. I looked at bussekin and decided I have no use for any of the designs in my knife line up, I have to much similar stuff already. In terms of convenience, I dont see myself ever getting one. They are costly, have no sheath, and will cost a bunch to ship to me. I wanted a small stainless bushcraft knife, It was between the F! and an Enzo Trapper in aus-8, obviously I took the F1. It has a left handed sheath and ironically a better warranty than Enzo, I still havent tested it yet.
 
Big Mike said:
I'd look at Bark River Knives.




Big Mike
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Big Mike Stewart!!! :D Yeah I looked, and I liked what I saw for the most part. In terms of price and ease of shipping, I cant explain to you the horrors of waiting 5 to 9 weeks for a knife in the mail, the F1 was the one for me. I carved with her a bit, I love the feel and the blade geometry.
 
augostos said:
Hello!

How do you find the F1 handle? Is it comfortable or rather short?

Thanks!
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I don't have an F1, but I believe the handles on Fallknivens are quite similar. On that account, I love the handle on my A1. It never develops pressure points and it fits my hand quite comfortably. The kraton is a very pleasant material, and you can get as dirty with it as you want :D
 
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