Oiling old bone?

Probably :). I even took acetone to it just to see. Nada :)

As far as the advice from Bernard and Bill, well, anytime someone as experienced as either of those gentleman speak, I listen.

This has been a very cool thread. I have been following closely.

Kevin
 
Don't try to teach an old paint chemist about solvents. I know a walloping lot more about them than any wiki article.
 
richstag said:
Probably :). I even took acetone to it just to see. Nada :)

As far as the advice from Bernard and Bill, well, anytime someone as experienced as either of those gentleman speak, I listen.

This has been a very cool thread. I have been following closely.

Kevin
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Me too. I'm sure the color could be removed a lot of ways (e.g. 30% H2O2 overnight, etc) but mineral oil is something that most of us frequently use on our knives. I'm tempted to buy an old well preserved but inexpensive knife with brown bone handles and incubate it in mineral oil just to see what happens.
 
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Its worth a shot Jake :)

Before I knew any better I soaked my grandfather's old 62087 case that he gave me when I was a kid. I used food grade mineral oil. I did it to get the crud out of the joints and springs. I didn't notice any adverse effects to the brown bone, but I wasn't looking either.

Please keep us posted if you do. I would be interested for sure.

Kevin
 
If you guys think this is a good representative example, I'll test this Henry Sears & Son Equal End (knife on the left in the photo). I'll put it in a ziplock bag with mineral oil and take photos over 7 days. I like the knife a lot but it's one of my users and I'm not expecting anything drastic.

texasjack-bullhead.jpg
 
Idk that is one cool knife just the way it is. It would prove a point though one way or the other. I'm impartial on this one. I want to see, but I don't want to see anything happen to your knife.
 
Hmmm... Maybe you're right. I'll try a Rough Rider first and see if I can find an oldie that I'm less concerned about.

I'll post before photos of the Rough Rider tomorrow.
 
Jake, I found the following info on a woodworking site. Not sure how credible, but I will post it anyhow.

Potassium Permanganate is a dark purplish-violet chemical that is readily soluble in water. One or two ounces dissolved in a quart of water will stain most hardwoods a pleasant brown. If the color is too dark it can be lightened by washing the wood down with a solution of sodium thiosulfate (also known as hypo).
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From the same site a warning about fading from direct sunlight exposure:

Potassium Permanganate is a dark purple solid. Dissolving 1 ounce in a pint of water is used to stain woods a pleasant brown. The Potassium Permanganate decomposes on contact with the wood and leaves a brown residue that stains the wood. If the color is too dark it can be lightened by washing the wood with a strong solution of hypo. The brown color imparted to fairly woods will gradually fade when exposed to direct sunlight. Mix only enough solution to do the job at hand as the solution on long standing will lose its effectiveness. Use it with caution as it is a strong oxidizer.
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I found these when I was looking up info a while ago and last night on my phone I couldn't locate them. The info is for wood working so I don't know how applicable it is for bone or stag.

Kevin
 
Please, nobody take offense at the following.

All I'm seeing -- errrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr, reading in this thread are generalities.

Nobody can say Mineral Oil does x, y, or z to the covers of a knife unless they are talking about a specific type of bone with a specific age when killed and the specific time the bone was aged after it was collected -- i.e, the shin bone of a cow, killed at the age of 5-years old, and aged for 2-years after collection. Vary any of those variables and the results of the effect of mineral oil on the bones will differ.

The same goes for dyes. If you use the same dye on two or more different kinds of bone, the effects of mineral oil on the bone coloring will vary from bone cover to bone cover.

This has been a good general discussion of various chemicals on bone but to my way of thinking, it's been a bit overboard.

When I say that I use RemOil on my knives, I don't mean that I soak, saturate, or use excessive amounts. I just mean that I put a drop or two or three on the joints and when the excess runs off, I simply wipe some on the covers. It sure as heck isn't enough to effect my health or that of anyone else. I just use my phrase "Steak and Eggs and RemOil" more as a joke than anything. I seldom and I mean seldom use one of my pocket knives for food related duties in any way and when I have used it to cut an apple or a piece of meat, I really haven't gotten a taste of oil in the food. And I sure as heck have never gotten the taste of Carbon Steel when doing so either.

BACK TO THE OP:

A little mineral oil used on the joints of your knives and then just a bit of it lightly wiped on the covers/scales of your knives won't hurt them or you one little bit. The same goes for 3-in-One oil, RemOil, clean un-used motor oil (used if it's all you got and need to oil a joint for some emergency reason), and pretty much any other oil for that matter.

There's a heck of a lot of good info in this thread but take it with a grain of salt. Afterall, it isn't like you're oiling the pistons of the Titanic.

Just my .02¢
 
Modoc ED said:
Please, nobody take offense at the following.

All I'm seeing -- errrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr, reading in this thread are generalities.

Nobody can say Mineral Oil does x, y, or z to the covers of a knife unless they are talking about a specific type of bone with a specific age when killed and the specific time the bone was aged after it was collected -- i.e, the shin bone of a cow, killed at the age of 5-years old, and aged for 2-years after collection. Vary any of those variables and the results of the effect of mineral oil on the bones will differ.

The same goes for dyes. If you use the same dye on two or more different kinds of bone, the effects of mineral oil on the bone coloring will vary from bone cover to bone cover.

This has been a good general discussion of various chemicals on bone but to my way of thinking, it's been a bit overboard.

When I say that I use RemOil on my knives, I don't mean that I soak, saturate, or use excessive amounts. I just mean that I put a drop or two or three on the joints and when the excess runs off, I simply wipe some on the covers. It sure as heck isn't enough to effect my health or that of anyone else. I just use my phrase "Steak and Eggs and RemOil" more as a joke than anything. I seldom and I mean seldom use one of my pocket knives for food related duties in any way and when I have used it to cut an apple or a piece of meat, I really haven't gotten a taste of oil in the food. And I sure as heck have never gotten the taste of Carbon Steel when doing so either.

BACK TO THE OP:

A little mineral oil used on the joints of your knives and then just a bit of it lightly wiped on the covers/scales of your knives won't hurt them or you one little bit. The same goes for 3-in-One oil, RemOil, clean un-used motor oil (used if it's all you got and need to oil a joint for some emergency reason), and pretty much any other oil for that matter.

There's a heck of a lot of good info in this thread but take it with a grain of salt. Afterall, it isn't like you're oiling the pistons of the Titanic.

Just my .02¢
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Just when I started using RemOil like hot sauce on my scrambled eggs :D

Im just trying to raise your blood pressure Ed :)

Those seem to be real good points you brought up about natural variations, time factors etcetera. Thanks Ed.
 
Well said Ed, -however its way more important than oiling the pistons on the Titanic at this
stage of the game . Ed is dead right on the infinite variations possible

Ken.
 
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Good point Ken but if I'd said; The Good Ship Lollypop ................................:rolleyes:
 
Modoc ED said:
BACK TO THE OP:

A little mineral oil used on the joints of your knives and then just a bit of it lightly wiped on the covers/scales of your knives won't hurt them or you one little bit. The same goes for 3-in-One oil, RemOil, clean un-used motor oil (used if it's all you got and need to oil a joint for some emergency reason), and pretty much any other oil for that matter.

There's a heck of a lot of good info in this thread but take it with a grain of salt. Afterall, it isn't like you're oiling the pistons of the Titanic.

Just my .02¢
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That's about what I took from all this. I use mineral oil because it's food safe, easily available and doesnt stink. I do just kind of rub the excess from oiling the joints onto the bone, rather than soaking it. I was actually curious if that would help to prevent the bone from cracking. I don't have any expensive antiques- just users, so I wasn't really all that bothered if the color changes a bit. It has been fun to read about all this chemical theory, even if some of it is above my head (I got C's in high school chemistry(
 
r8shell said:
That's about what I took from all this. I use mineral oil because it's food safe, easily available and doesnt stink. I do just kind of rub the excess from oiling the joints onto the bone, rather than soaking it. I was actually curious if that would help to prevent the bone from cracking. I don't have any expensive antiques- just users, so I wasn't really all that bothered if the color changes a bit. It has been fun to read about all this chemical theory, even if some of it is above my head (I got C's in high school chemistry(
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You know -- I can't say with any certainty and I don't think anyone on this forum can say for certain whether or not mineral oil or any other oil can prevent bone covers/scales from cradking.

There is a "sticky" at the top of this forum on page one titled "Old Knives". Click on that and look at all the old knives with bone covers/scales. Most show no signs of cracking, shrinkage, etc.. We have to assume than many of those early knives were exposed to grease, oils of all kinds even fuel oil and of course kerosene (sp?) and yet they look as good today as the day they rolled off the cutlers table -- maybe even better.

A "C" huh? Heck, I didn't even take Chemisty in High School.
 
Ed, I'm sure you know but I was also teasing you about switching from RemOil to mineral oil. Bernard's recommendation that I quoted is in agreement with you just putting a few drops on the scales. This discussion went beyond that... and I suppose it is mostly my fault.

For me, this discussion is intended to be fun. This forum wouldn't exist if we all carried $18 yeller sodbusters and didn't get excited about knives.

Which steel is better? Thumb stud or Spydie hole? What's the best sub $400 knife for eating an apple? ...How should you properly care for an old knife?

You are correct that a lot of variables have to be controlled for a truly scientific experiment. To my knowledge we're just a bunch guys talking knives without any real qualifications other than we like knives. The age of the animal when it was killed and the length of time the bone was aged is a bit much for us internet knife nerds to control. We can however, stick a knife in mineral oil for a week an see what happens.

I was ready to give it a go with a Rough Rider. I have no idea what dye was used. I am just a curious knife nerd wondering what would happen. I'm sorry if this discussion went to far. Enjoy your sodbusters. ;)
 
supratentorial said:
Ed, I'm sure you know but I was also teasing you about switching from RemOil to mineral oil. Of course I know that. I took it as a good ribbing. Kind of enjoyed the poke in the ribs.

Bernard's recommendation that I quoted is in agreement with you just putting a few drops on the scales. This discussion went beyond that... and I suppose it is mostly my fault. What do ya mean your fault. A lot of people jumped into the discussion. Pretty lively discussion at that. A lot of good info was put forth and most likely enjoyed by all.

I'm sorry if this discussion went to far. Enjoy your sodbusters. ;) It didn't go too far. I simply told the OP to take all the info in this thread with a grain of salt meaning to considered everything said -- errrrrrrrrrrrr typed before coming to his own conclusion.
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I enjlyed all your input to this thread Jake. Thanks for taking the time to help out the OP and the rest of us.

EDITED to say -- This has been a fun thread Jake. That's what all this is -- "fun"!!
 
Others posted but I went through the checkout carrying only a bottle with "Lubricant Laxative" in big letters on the label. ;)

IMG_7488.jpg


I think I'll just let them sit for a week and then take an after photo. Since my photography skillz are rather limited, I will take a scan as well as a regular photo. The scan is easier for me to control the settings. This test will answer everyone's questions. ;) ...well, actually it won't but I hope it's entertaining.
 
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