"Old Knives"

r8shell said:
It's somewhat beyond my skill set, too. :oops: I tried squeezing the bolsters together, but it all springs back apart, so I can't just peen it tight. I'd like to think I could just drive out the pivot pin and replace it, without having to change the center pin that holds the spring in place. I'm probably wrong about that as a possibility.
The fact that it's ivory, has a pinned shield and a well executed swedge on the blade told me that it was pretty old and of good quality. Enough for me to roll the dice, but it may just have to sit on the "cool old relic" shelf.


Thanks!
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Myself I'd try to make it usable again as much as is feasible. For me that isint wallpapering the Sistine Chapel as the greatest compliment you can pay it is putting it to use. I accept this ain't everyone's version of a good idea tho!
For me that would mean filling the gap in the missing bit of scales by matching the ivory by adding coloured dust to a clear epoxy/cracks. Blade play massaged out by peening the rivet to take up any gap with a view to retaining snap (not always possible for my amateur hands).
I have a lovely old Wade Wingfield and Rowbotham Sheffield example that Jack Black tells me may be around a similar vintage to your American Knife & Plymouth example that I did some of the above to, and am delighted everytime I cut something with it.


I also just did my first shield inlay on a H.G. Long oval senator, it's original shield missing replaced by a piece of stainless washer:)


If you do decide to have a go I'd love to see pics as it is a beautiful old tool! :)
 
ed_is_dead said:
Myself I'd try to make it usable again as much as is feasible. For me that isint wallpapering the Sistine Chapel as the greatest compliment you can pay it is putting it to use. I accept this ain't everyone's version of a good idea tho!
For me that would mean filling the gap in the missing bit of scales by matching the ivory by adding coloured dust to a clear epoxy/cracks. Blade play massaged out by peening the rivet to take up any gap with a view to retaining snap (not always possible for my amateur hands).
I have a lovely old Wade Wingfield and Rowbotham Sheffield example that Jack Black tells me may be around a similar vintage to your American Knife & Plymouth example that I did some of the above to, and am delighted everytime I cut something with it.


I also just did my first shield inlay on a H.G. Long oval senator, it's original shield missing replaced by a piece of stainless washer:)


If you do decide to have a go I'd love to see pics as it is a beautiful old tool! :)
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Those are both fine old knives, and you did a great job. :cool::thumbsup:
I've done cosmetic repairs to quite a few old knives (replacing shields, patching broken scales, re-shaping blades) But am not so confident when it comes to fixing the moving parts.
I'm good with the artsy-craftsy, but not much with the mechanical. ;):oops:
 
r8shell said:
Those are both fine old knives, and you did a great job. :cool::thumbsup:
I've done cosmetic repairs to quite a few old knives (replacing shields, patching broken scales, re-shaping blades) But am not so confident when it comes to fixing the moving parts.
I'm good with the artsy-craftsy, but not much with the mechanical. ;):oops:
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I have to confess that shield took me hours:D
I enjoy hands on and wrenching but like yourself have not ventured into the deep waters of disassembly.
A great vid linked here shows Stan Shaw making what appear to be casual adjustments of a pivot pins tension to get play Vs walk n talk "just so". When somone does something that difficult with ease I can't help but be wowed:thumbsup:
 
r8shell said:
I can't just peen it tight.
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My guess is that it's a tapered pin. That's quite common with stuff made in the 1800's and into the early 1900's. The taper would be very slight (0.002-0.004) but using one helps alignment and actually make assembly easier if doing piece work, provided you always use the same steps. To "set" one you determine the direction of the taper, put an anvil behind the large end, and peen the center of the opposing end to fill out the hole. Then you file both ends down and finish the bolsters.

If you want to PM me an address I have a piece of material that, I think, could be used to re-scale that knife. I think it was supposed to have been prepped for some scrimshaw. It's been sitting on the microwave for 5-6 years now.
 
ed_is_dead said:
I have to confess that shield took me hours:D
I enjoy hands on and wrenching but like yourself have not ventured into the deep waters of disassembly.
A great vid linked here shows Stan Shaw making what appear to be casual adjustments of a pivot pins tension to get play Vs walk n talk "just so". When somone does something that difficult with ease I can't help but be wowed:thumbsup:
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I've seen a few videos of Stan Shaw at work. After 70+ years of work as a cutler, he does make it look easy. :D
eisman said:
My guess is that it's a tapered pin. That's quite common with stuff made in the 1800's and into the early 1900's. The taper would be very slight (0.002-0.004) but using one helps alignment and actually make assembly easier if doing piece work, provided you always use the same steps. To "set" one you determine the direction of the taper, put an anvil behind the large end, and peen the center of the opposing end to fill out the hole. Then you file both ends down and finish the bolsters.

If you want to PM me an address I have a piece of material that, I think, could be used to re-scale that knife. I think it was supposed to have been prepped for some scrimshaw. It's been sitting on the microwave for 5-6 years now.
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Very interesting. I can imagine how that would keep the pin from working itself out, even though it's finished out flush with the bolster.
That's very generous of you. I wouldn't want to replace the covers on this 150 year old knife. I'm more likely to do that with a knife that has bad celluloid, but is otherwise in good shape.
Like this Western States:
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Picked up some nice ones this week... the Ulster stockman was a package deal with the gunstock jack, I haven't seen many old Ulster gunstocks so thought that was pretty cool :cool: Also from the same collector grabbed this Queen single blade trapper. The tang stamp is c.1935 to 1955 but Queen stopped using Rogers bone after WWII so this one is likely 1935-1945ish... it does have brass liners so probably closer to 1940.

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veitsi_poika said:
Picked up some nice ones this week... the Ulster stockman was a package deal with the gunstock jack, I haven't seen many old Ulster gunstocks so thought that was pretty cool :cool: Also from the same collector grabbed this Queen single blade trapper. The tang stamp is c.1935 to 1955 but Queen stopped using Rogers bone after WWII so this one is likely 1935-1945ish... it does have brass liners so probably closer to 1940.

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Very cool!
 
veitsi_poika said:
For comparison... this single blade Queen trapper is post WWII (late 50's) with the winterbottom bone and stainless blades.

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Love them examples, especially the two blade jack Veitsi P. As I've said before they're strange and exotic to an Irish fella who's been a knife fancier all his life but never seen them. Think Kirk looking at the exotic green dancing girl:) Well minus the corset, Jim's that is!
Your knife truck is hilarious. I'd be off the couch like a cat with a scalded arse hehe.
I collect from a parcel forwarding service where you elect a local depot and are given a code to open a box. My kids are young and have named it "Dads magic locker" haha.
 
Just got this short line Camillus 67 in Rogers bone. These seem to be fairly rare as I've been looking for one for almost two years and this is the first one I've seen come up. Main blade has been reprofiled and the springs are a bit weak but she's a beauty none the less.

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