"Old Knives"

[lambertiana]

Picked up an Empire curved sheepsfoot jack, etched For New England Whalers.


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Nice catch. I wonder if many of these were made after about 1880. The whaling industry died when the petroleum industry got going.

 

[Campbellclanman]

Not bad at all Mr Augie! isn't it great finding these old great names and in still fantastic condition.

I am extremely grateful that our Bladeforum friends share these amazing Knives and their knowledge throughout these pages.

 

[waynorth]

Picked up an Empire curved sheepsfoot jack, etched For New England Whalers.


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Real nice Whaler, John!! Empire made great cutlery!!

 

[waynorth]

Nice catch. I wonder if many of these were made after about 1880. The whaling industry died when the petroleum industry got going.

Empire was booming at that time!! The date could be close!!

 

[Luger1952]

Double post

 

[waynorth]

Here is a Schrade Walden Kon-Kav stockman in near new condition

Nice Schrade, Lloyd!!

 

[Luger1952]

Great out pouring of wonderful knives Cal and John

Here is a Schrade Walden Kon-Kav stockman in near new condition with the exception of a couple of barely noticeable bone splits. Gorgeous otherwise so I couldn’t pass it up I have another one that is in nice condition with darker red jigged bone handles but this one is definitely a step up at least in terms of the blade condition. Anyway, thanks for look and commenting if you feel so inclined!

 

[Campbellclanman]

Lloyd that’s just outright gorgeous! Great Knife my friend. So many attractive features in one small package.

 

[herder]

Picked up an Empire curved sheepsfoot jack, etched For New England Whalers.


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The "New England Whalers" blade etches were used by some cutlery companies as late as the early 1900s.
Enclosed is nearly the same knife from a 1906 Empire catalog less the "Whalers" etch, but with a stag handle and shield.
Also shown is a close match from a 1904 Russell catalog showing the "New England Whalers" blade etch.

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[Campbellclanman]

Great digging Herder! Love those catalog references posted!

 

[Augie]

The "New England Whalers" blade etches were used by some cutlery companies as late as the early 1900s.
Enclosed is nearly the same knife from a 1906 Empire catalog less the "Whalers" etch, but with a stag handle and shield.
Also shown is a close match from a 1904 Russell catalog showing the "New England Whalers" blade etch.

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Thanks for the catalog references Herder, always love to see those. I do know that Schrade used "New England Whaler" as late as the 1940's, Russell and Empire used "For New England Whalers", I find it interesting that Russell and Empire laid the etch out the same way. Would love to find one of the Russells someday.

 

[r8shell]

A new resident of R8shell's Home For Old and Worn Out Knives:
Zenith by Marshall Wells Hardware.

I think I can get it in usable shape with some epoxy & a whetstone.

The main sits so low I have to open the secondary first, but I couldn't resist the pick bone.

 

[ed_is_dead]

A new resident of R8shell's Home For Old and Worn Out Knives:
Zenith by Marshall Wells Hardware.

I think I can get it in usable shape with some epoxy & a whetstone.

The main sits so low I have to open the secondary first, but I couldn't resist the pick bone.

So worth salvaging.
I have a lovely old John Petty knife which has a period fix to the stag using using a shaped piece of bone instead of stag. The seller sold it to me stating the piece was essentially devalued due to this but I really admire it all the more for this reason, its so honest and speaks of its history and use all the more.
I'm on the lookout for such a piece to do likewise but I can get why you may use coloured epoxy and match the jigging.
Looking forward to seeing your results. Love the bolster caps!
Btw: regarding the main sitting low... I cut open a soda can and cut a piece that interference fits on the backspring where the kick hits and in so doing raising the nick to be accessible. If its too high I remove the shim and sand till just thick enough.
You've probably dome this before but just in case I said I'd mention it.

 

[Campbellclanman]

R8shell that old piece there still has the looks to get any knife enthusiasts attention immediately!

I agree, you gotta love that Pic Bone.
Have you tried getting a little bit of a matchstick and spend a bit of time to get the wee tiny square of wood a tight fit and get that right down the liner to sit below the tang to bring that main up slightly?

I also have read in a couple of places here in Traditional’s about the process of Peening the Tang to stretch that contact point out slightly- I haven’t tried it but it makes perfect sense.

I love seeing your oldies and like the results when you get stuck into them at times

 

[Rich S]

The main sits so low I have to open the secondary first, but I couldn't resist the pick bone.

A wee bit of folded paper under the kick will get the blade to sit up proper. I've done many times on Rough Ryders (probably half I've owned).

 

[wlfryjr]

Great to have those two matching pair John , now if you can get the trio or ever how many are out there.

That's a beautiful colored Schrade Lloyd, and etched too!

Great stamp Rachel.
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I've been into IDing and learning from comparing ever since I started collecting.

These are 3 separate manufacturers and except for the difference in coloration, you'd say these all have the same DNA. I can't remember the early company or consortium in NE that made handle material for many manufacturers. These must be the relatives peach seed (one is peach seed, two aren't).

I just find this stuff extremely fascinating.

 

[r8shell]

So worth salvaging.
I have a lovely old John Petty knife which has a period fix to the stag using using a shaped piece of bone instead of stag. The seller sold it to me stating the piece was essentially devalued due to this but I really admire it all the more for this reason, its so honest and speaks of its history and use all the more.
I'm on the lookout for such a piece to do likewise but I can get why you may use coloured epoxy and match the jigging.
Looking forward to seeing your results. Love the bolster caps!
Btw: regarding the main sitting low... I cut open a soda can and cut a piece that interference fits on the backspring where the kick hits and in so doing raising the nick to be accessible. If its too high I remove the shim and sand till just thick enough.
You've probably dome this before but just in case I said I'd mention it.

R8shell that old piece there still has the looks to get any knife enthusiasts attention immediately!

I agree, you gotta love that Pic Bone.
Have you tried getting a little bit of a matchstick and spend a bit of time to get the wee tiny square of wood a tight fit and get that right down the liner to sit below the tang to bring that main up slightly?

I also have read in a couple of places here in Traditional’s about the process of Peening the Tang to stretch that contact point out slightly- I haven’t tried it but it makes perfect sense.

I love seeing your oldies and like the results when you get stuck into them at times

A wee bit of folded paper under the kick will get the blade to sit up proper. I've done many times on Rough Ryders (probably half I've owned).

Thanks, guys!

I have used slivers of wood as a shim to raise the kick on a few knives in the past. ed_is_dead , I like your idea of a strip of metal. That way I wouldn't have to replace it from time to time if it gets dirty/wet.
The problem with this knife is that the tip already is sitting proud, and raising it up would necessitate grinding more blade away than I'd like.

I have used bits of scrap bone to patch chipped out covers before, but I also kinda like the idea of using clear epoxy to fill gaps. I did it that way on a mother of pearl knife, thinking it's in keeping with some art restoration philosophies.

 

[waynorth]

r8shell !! Seems to me if you notched the handle on the nick side, for the secondary, and lowered the secondary, the nick on the main would appear!!

 

[r8shell]

r8shell !! Seems to me if you notched the handle on the nick side, for the secondary, and lowered the secondary, the nick on the main would appear!!

That's a pretty good idea and I can see myself doing that on a different knife one of these days. On this old Zenith though, I'd hate to take a notch out of it. When I carry a knife this old, I use it for light tasks like sharpening pencils or cutting loose threads. If I have to take my time and open the secondary first, that's okay. I'll likely find the little pen blade sufficient for the task at hand anyway.

I've been into IDing and learning from comparing ever since I started collecting.

These are 3 separate manufacturers and except for the difference in coloration, you'd say these all have the same DNA. I can't remember the early company or consortium in NE that made handle material for many manufacturers. These must be the relatives peach seed (one is peach seed, two aren't).

I just find this stuff extremely fascinating.

What a wonderful trio you have there!

 

[waynorth]

That's a pretty good idea and I can see myself doing that on a different knife one of these days. On this old Zenith though, I'd hate to take a notch out of it. When I carry a knife this old, I use it for light tasks like sharpening pencils or cutting loose threads. If I have to take my time and open the secondary first, that's okay. I'll likely find the little pen blade sufficient for the task at hand anyway.

I was worried that my explanation was confusing!!