"Old Knives"

Fantastic advice Primble. Thank you very much for taking the time to explain.
I fully agree that patience is the key.
Could you please explain the cold Balsamic wrap kind Sir- is Balsamic a type of Vinegar- please forgive me if this sounds strange - I haven't heard of it.
 
OVB cleaned and ready for patina

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Fantastic advice Primble. Thank you very much for taking the time to explain.
I fully agree that patience is the key.
Could you please explain the cold Balsamic wrap kind Sir- is Balsamic a type of Vinegar- please forgive me if this sounds strange - I haven't heard of it.

No need to worry, my friend. I was running low on mine and just bought a new 16 oz. bottle of Balsamic Vinegar at my local grocery last week. I think the cost was around 4 or 5 dollars. It is usually found in the condiments section of a grocery store and will be a dark brown color and labeled as Balsamic Vinegar. It is used on salads and other food endeavors. Sometimes, it will be found around olive oils in the grocery. After you buy it, just store it at room temperature.

Preparation: If the blades are high polish, like a new Case knife would be, dull the blades down with a Knife Eraser or 800-1000 grit sandpaper. Clean the blades with alcohol or windex, using a clean paper towel. I usually go over each blade a couple times, until they are spic and span. Do not handle the blades with your hand - use a clean paper towel to keep oils off the blade. Leave your main blade open to half stop.

I pull about an 18 inch section of Aluminum foil out and lay it on my kitchen counter, next to the kitchen sink. I then lay a 6"x6"x1" bare wood block on the left edge of the foil. I then take scissors and cut a section of paper towel - a bit longer than the blade I am working on and about 2-3 inches wide. Place a clean towel close to your work area, where you can quickly dry your hands or the knife handles.

Ready to Go:

I work on one blade at a time, with the blade around the half stop position. Turn a slow stream of water on from the faucet near you and leave it running. Your hands are going to be busy for a minute or two. Now take the section of paper towel and hold over the sink and saturate it with the vinegar. The rest is assuming one is right handed. Rinse your left hand with water and dry on the towel you laid out. Grab the knife by the front bolster and use your right hand to wrap the wet vinegar wrap tightly around the blade, covering the entire tang and a little past the tip. The knife should be laying on the aluminum foil during the wrap. I usually wrap it at least a couple wraps. Try not to get any wrinkles in your wrap. Once you have it nice and straight and wrapped pretty tight, check both sides of the handle for any vinegar and if present blot the handle dry with a clean paper towel. The vinegar can dull a bone handle, so just be sure there is no residual vinegar on the handle and all will be fine. Now lay the dry handle of the knife on the wooden block and let the wrapped blade drop onto the aluminum foil. The purpose here is just to have the knife handle elevated above the blade, so the vinegar can not seep under the handle. You can now walk away. If there is anyone else at home, instruct them to please leave your knife alone! :D

Look at the time and walk away. After 30-40 minutes, I usually return to examine the blades and re-wet with vinegar and re-wrap, a total time of around two hours per blade. The purpose of the re-wrap is to help keep the pattern of the paper from transferring in one place on the blade. This evens it all out and the blade should be a flat black after around two hours total. If they are not pretty even black, re-wrap a little longer, until you are satisfied. Always remember to keep the handles dry. ;););)

Almost Home:

Once you are satisfied that the finish is even, take a clean paper towel and gently blot the vinegar off the blade. Now take an oil, such as 3 in 1 oil and wet the blade with oil. Take you fingers and make sure the oil covers the entire blade. This will stop the vinegar process - if you skip this step the blade may continue to patina! Now wipe most the oil off and just leave a light coating. If you have another blade to do, open the main blade all the way and the second blade to the half stop position and repeat the whole process.

Finishing up:

Take a piece of steel wool and take the knife outdoors. Lightly rub the blade(s) from tang to tip, checking your progress often. This rub should lighten your patina toward a lighter and shiny gray color. I use a rocket blower to dust the knife off as I go. It is just up to you where you want to stop. The more you rub, the lighter the blade will get. Try to at least rub long enough to get highlights on the swedges and other sharp edges of the blade. Once you are satisfied, blow all the dust out of the crevices and wipe off with a clean towel. Coat blades with a thin film of oil. You are done.

It something goes wrong, please do not smash your knife with a ballpein hammer! Send me a PM and I can probably help you undo your bad deeds. This applies to only before you grab the ballpein hammer! :D We can even take it back to full polish - if you stuck to the instructions. ;)

I hope all this was as clear as mud to you and I wish you a successful endeavor!

P.S. - the OVB knife that Mark posted above is at a good stage of cleaning and ready for patina, in my opinion. ;):)
 
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Sample knives that saw the process:
Lightly rubbed:
25a3pt2.jpg

Rubbed a little longer:
bipfdz.jpg


;):)
 
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I think that that Bone is Pressed - not jigged, what do you say forum friends?
Lovely knife - I too love those Bolsters, Canada did good :thumbup:

It looks like popcorn stag IMO Markesharp.

If that is a Premier marked on the tang Markesharp I would like the opportunity to buy or trade it from you for it sir. I live close to Charlie and I would love to see it. As you know I collect Premier.
 
That's an impressively detailed and well-written description of your technique Primble :thumbup:
 
It looks like popcorn stag IMO Markesharp.

If that is a Premier marked on the tang Markesharp I would like the opportunity to buy or trade it from you for it sir. I live close to Charlie and I would love to see it. As you know I collect Premier.

I am actually sending the knife to Charlie today ( I promised him I would do it last weekend and got busy).

I think you are right about the scales being popcorn stag. :thumbup:
 
That didn't turn out very well Primble :eek: You should send me that junker and I will get you a nice knife with great patina! :D

Actually....that is just W:eek:W. That Schrade peach seed bone is some of the best ever done on a production slip joint IMHO.:thumbup:

Sample knife that saw the process:
25a3pt2.jpg


;):)

I need to "dial" my camera in better to get good outside photos...like yours.;)
 
I'm thinking this barlow might have been made by Winchester. Is anyone familiar? The reason is because it is well made, obviously NOT by Wards... and I see some similarities to Winchester's barlow pattern. This also looks like a display models since the bone is sun bleached on one side? Just a guess. I also guess 1930's. If anyone knows more, let me know. Otherwise just sharing ;)
 

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This is interesting- and it's great to get different opinions- popcorn Stag is in my opinon( please correct me if I am wrong here everyone ) more raised- a lot more " knarly" than shown on the Premier scales. Once the popcorn starts to smooth off it leaves the tale tale signs of of the tops being flattened off- the scales on the Premier from what I can see does not show this- they show an extremely consistent smooth pattern- which leads me to believe it may be pressed- but hey I just don't have the knife in front of me and it would be great for Charlie to let us know his thoughts when he receives the knife.
There was a time when pressing a bark- like finish into the Bone was common practice.
I believe the Bone was boiled or heated in some form to a certain degree then pressed- then dyed.
Charlie if you read this Sir could you help us with your opinion- either way I look forward to learning.

Primble Sir - I looked back and apologise I did indeed overlook you question. I have the tube downstairs and I would have looked it up- by guessing I would have been incorrect as I would have said Chestnut Bone.

Thank you for your detailed description on the Vinegar process. I will let you know how I am getting on friends :)


It looks like popcorn stag IMO Markesharp.

If that is a Premier marked on the tang Markesharp I would like the opportunity to buy or trade it from you for it sir. I live close to Charlie and I would love to see it. As you know I collect Premier.
 
I got this today and I haven't been able to put it down .
If anyone can shed some light on its heritage and age I would be be mighty appreciative .

Hornby & Wragg Sheffield.









Ken
 
Beautiful Bone on that Robeson Simple Man - just a beautiful old knife, I dont blame you carrying that one around Sir-great viewing!

Ken, that Sheffield is a stunner, A beautiful and typical mid to late 1800's knife ( imo) I had a look through Goins, and the 1st Edition of Tweedales and of course Wragg is very well known, but I found nothing on Hornby and Wragg, I do believe that 2nd edition of Tweedales Sheffield Knife Book is much improved with lots more Cutlers listed, so hopefully someone has this edition to help.
 
Thanks guys. Great old Sheffield, Ken. I love it.

Well, you can't tell it from the pic since I cut it off.....but the main blade is full and hardly used. Pen has some scratches, but still great. Snap and action is like new with 1/2 stops and firm opening without being a nail breaker - perfect. It does have a few issues though, there is a little bit of gap between the liners and springs and.....the worst part....arrived with a mark side scale crack from close to where the tips are closed to past the top center pin. I got it stabilized with some glue and we will see how it goes. You can see the repair just a bit if you know what you are looking for.
 
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