OMG...I finally got a SNG STRIDER...I hope its worth it!

jimmy123 said:
Currently I'm not sure how to tighten the pivot hinge because i feel a tiny bit a blade play that I want to tighten up on.

Anyone know how to tighten this?
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You need a spanner wrench to tighten it. If you want a nice one find an Atwood SpannerBaby.

Is your play up and down or side to side?
 
I found this,

SMF / SnG Gen IV and above (bull pivot)
Tools:
1. Lube. Just about anything will do.
2. One 1/8” hex wrench
3. One T-10 Torx wrench
4. A good high heat Soldering iron. I use one of those dual range versions sold at Radio Shack. This may or may not be needed to break down the (blue) loctite used on the pivot. BTW, it is very unlikely you’ll have to do this after the first time…
5. A good flat blade screwdriver. I use a 5/16” Craftsman. You do not need a spanner…

Steps to Field Strip:
1. After warming up your soldering iron, insert the tip into the hole in the male side of the pivot (on the non-lock side). Hold it there for 10-15 minutes.
2. Remove the soldering iron, insert your 1/8” hex wrench into the lock side of the pivot. Use your flat blade screwdriver to loosen the half of the pivot on the non-lock side. Once that’s loose, remove the male (lock side) of the pivot. Leave the blade and the half of the pivot on the non-lock side in place.
3. Using your T-10 Torx wrench, remove the 4 screws holding the knife together. If you’d like, you can remove the clip. The clip on SMFs exert a small amount of pressure on the lock, which can make re-assembly a little bit harder. Not enough to matter, in my book, but YMMV…
4. Lay the SMF down on the G-10 side. Lift off the Ti (lock) side. Be careful to not lose your washer…
5. Remove both washers, the male side of the pivot, and the blade from the G10 side of your SMF. Using hot water and good dishwashing soap, wash all parts thoroughly. Let them dry.
6. Once dry, clean the areas on the lock side and non-lock side of the Ti and G10 slabs (especially the G10 slab) where the pivot is inserted of any crap left. It’s usually black crispy stuff. Removing this crap can have a positive effect on blade centering, a good thing…
7. Lube the part of the pivot that goes in the hole in the blade. Lube the hole in the blade that the pivot goes through. Lube the ball detent. Lube the areas of the blade that contact the washers. Lube the areas of the washers that contact the blade. Some people lube both sides of the washers. Washers normally rotate (very slowly), so that may be a good thing. Some use lots of lube, some use just a tiny amount. I prefer a medium amount of lube applied to everything besides the slabs. Again, YMMV…
8. Re-assemble your SMF. Stick the female side of the pivot into the G10 slab. Place one washer on the pivot, then the blade, then the other washer.
9. Place the lock side slab in place. Wiggle the blade and the slab around until the female side of the pivot comes through.
10. Tighten the pivot a little. Insert the four frame screws, tighten them a little. Check the pivot, to see if all looks centered, etc. Tighten the three frame screws (not too much), then open and close the knife a few times, HARD. This helps seat the blade and pivot, I think. I use that step with all frame lock folders, it works. Tighten the pivot to taste. Open and close the knife a few times, HARD. Tighten the pivot to taste. In my experience, no loctite needs to be added.

SnG Gen I – III
Tools:
1. Lube. Just about anything will do.
2. One T-8 and two T-10 Torx wrenches.
3. A good high heat Soldering iron. I use one of those dual range versions sold at Radio Shack. This may or may not be needed to break down the (blue) loctite used on the pivot.

Steps to Field Strip:
1. After warming up your soldering iron, insert the tip into the T-10 Torx insertion point in the pivot on the lock side. This is the male side of the pivot. Hold it there for 10-15 minutes.
2. Remove the soldering iron, insert your T-10 Torx wrenches into both sides of the pivot. Holding the non-lock side in place, loosen and remove the half of the pivot on the lock side. Leave the blade and the half of the pivot on the non-lock side in place.
3. Using your T-8 Torx wrench, remove the 3 screws holding the knife together. If you’d like, you can remove the clip. The clip on SnGs exerts pressure on the lock, which can make re-assembly a little bit harder. Not enough to matter, in my book, but YMMV…
4. Lay the SnG down on the G-10 side. Lift off the Ti (lock) side. Be careful to not lose your washer…
5. Remove both washers, the female side of the pivot, and the blade from the G10 side of your SnG. Using hot water and good dishwashing soap, wash the parts thoroughly. Let them dry.
6. Once dry, clean the areas on the lock side and non-lock side of the Ti and G10 slabs (especially the G10 slab) where the pivot is inserted of any crap left. It’s usually black crispy stuff. Removing this crap can have a positive effect on blade centering, a good thing…
7. Lube the part of the pivot that goes in the hole in the blade. Lube the hole in the blade that the pivot goes through. Lube the ball detent. Lube the areas of the blade that contact the washers. Lube the areas of the washers that contact the blade. Some people lube both sides of the washers. Washers normally rotate (very slowly), so that may be a good thing. Some use lots of lube, some use just a tiny amount. I prefer a medium amount of lube applied to everything besides the slabs. Again, YMMV…
8. Re-assemble your SnG. Stick the female side of the pivot into the G10 slab. Place one washer on the pivot, then the blade, then the other washer.
9. Place the lock side slab in place. Wiggle the blade and the slab around until the female side of the pivot come through.
10. Tighten the pivot a little. Insert the three frame screws, tighten them a little. Check the pivot, to see if all looks centered, etc. Tighten the three frame screws (not too much), then open and close the knife a few times, HARD. This helps seat the blade and pivot, I think. I use that step with all frame lock folders, it works. Tighten the pivot to taste. Open and close the knife a few times, HARD. Tighten the pivot to taste. In my experience, no loctite needs to be added.

AR/GB
 
OilMan said:
Ditto that. Like I said, I've got some that I'm definatly not parting with myself. The designs are excellent they just need to put a little more time into some of them before they go out the door.
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OilMan,
I saw how you got treated on that other forum, before Mick realized he had rushed to judgement, and I must say, I wasn't at all happy with it. Even though Mick called himself a bad name and apologized, after he was made aware that you were right, I still think you got treated horribly, especially for having been such a good a customer. Your poor treatment by him and the rest is another reason I no longer have an interest in any of Strider's offerings. I must also say, the way you handled the Adam Henry that kept posting towards the end of the thread was masterful. Good on you for not stooping to his level.

Regards,
3G
 
3Guardsmen said:
OilMan,
I saw how you got treated on that other forum, before Mick realized he had rushed to judgement, and I must say, I wasn't at all happy with it. Even though Mick called himself a bad name and apologized, after he was made aware that you were right, I still think you got treated horribly, especially for having been such a good a customer. Your poor treatment by him and the rest is another reason I no longer have an interest in any of Strider's offerings. I must also say, the way you handled the Adam Henry that kept posting towards the end of the thread was masterful. Good on you for not stooping to his level.

Regards,
3G
Click to expand...

Thanks 3G. Thing of it was I was in their house so I knew if I said anything back to the people who were being less than reasonable about it then they would really come out of the woodwork after me. But, as I've said, there were a lot of posters on that thread that were very nice and understood the frustration I was going through. My only real fear right now is if I use the heck out of the ones I'm keeping and I need them serviced will I get them back? Will they be fixed if I do? Will it take a year or two? I would hope they are above messing with me over this but I won't know til I need it. That's what's got me on the fence about selling even the ones I like. Damned if I do, damned if I don't kind of situation.:(

Jimmy, the flat head screwdriver won't work on the SnGs IIRC because the bolt is not flush or countersunk with the nut. It would work on a SMF because it's thicker and the bolt doesn't go all the way through the nut. A lot of do it yourselfers make a custom spanner wrench out of sheet metal. You might try that if you've got the tools available.

YMMV

ps. You might be able to pick up a good spanner wrench at a bicycle shop too IIRC. As far as what size you need take the knife with you to the store and see what fits.
 
OilMan said:
Thanks 3G. Thing of it was I was in their house so I knew if I said anything back to the people who were being less than reasonable about it then they would really come out of the woodwork after me. But, as I've said, there were a lot of posters on that thread that were very nice and understood the frustration I was going through. My only real fear right now is if I use the heck out of the ones I'm keeping and I need them serviced will I get them back? Will they be fixed if I do? Will it take a year or two? I would hope they are above messing with me over this but I won't know til I need it. That's what's got me on the fence about selling even the ones I like. Damned if I do, damned if I don't kind of situation.:(

Jimmy, the flat head screwdriver won't work on the SnGs IIRC because the bolt is not flush or countersunk with the nut. It would work on a SMF because it's thicker and the bolt doesn't go all the way through the nut. A lot of do it yourselfers make a custom spanner wrench out of sheet metal. You might try that if you've got the tools available.

YMMV

ps. You might be able to pick up a good spanner wrench at a bicycle shop too IIRC. As far as what size you need take the knife with you to the store and see what fits.
Click to expand...

thanks oilman, you have been a big help :)
 
ps. You might be able to pick up a good spanner wrench at a bicycle shop too IIRC. As far as what size you need take the knife with you to the store and see what fits
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Yes, my Shimano Tiagra chainwheel (the gears at the front) have that same screw type. I made one easily with a hand grinder and a thin steel cutting disk for my bike.
 
oops didnt realize this was an older thread...got a topic reply notification from gmail this morning?!
 
I have had many Striders, and they were all great knives. I would rather spend my money on custom knives.
 
I own bout 6 strider folders , never had any problems . Are they overpriced - not to me . I have put my PT ( fave EDC ) thru hell and back , still in perfect shape . A strider is no more overpriced than a Sebenza , another knife I own and dont consider overpriced . Limited productin shops like Strider and CRK cant compete on pricepoint with outfits like Spyderco , and Benchmade .

IMVHO , the best bang for the buck out there is Spyderco , the Glock of the knife world .

Kershaw / ZT would run a close second .

Chris
 
T.K.C. said:
I have had many Striders, and they were all great knives. I would rather spend my money on custom knives.
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I'd love to get a certain custom some day, but it would never see the use I'd put a Strider through. It would just take too long to get it to treat it like a hard-use tool.
 
As you can tell from my signature I've got a few striders including a couple sng's. I will not comment on price---one mans trash is anothers treasure.... I will say that my striders are all ROCK solid. On the other hand so are some of my Spydercos that cost 1/4 the striders(yeah, I kind of commented anyway!). If your pleased with your purchase and the knife lives up to the buyers expectations, that's all that matters. Good purchase!
 
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