On-line class Edge re-profile/convex your Busse.

LOL... Done??? I'm STILL waiting for my stones!!! :eek: ...But, while waiting, I did find a stripped & polished ABA in need of a sharp edge, so that'll be the knife chosen. I'm guessing backorder problems, so I'll follow the thread instructions when the package finally arrives.


Ok I will stick around..... i thought the rest of you got drunk and forgot.
 
Justabuyer,

Sorry about not keeping up with everyone..but this is what I've got so far.....

My FBM was VERY DULL....several days of hard work (chopping brush and roots) all with the factory edge (pic just before I started shapening).
PA300026.jpg

PA300025.jpg

Then I went to work.....I started with DMT X-course...about 3 hours the first day...still only had a bur on part of the blade...30 min the next day (started a second bevel YEEK...), another hour and I had corrected back to one bevel and had the bur full lenght of blade. I then moved on to 320 grit sandpaper for about 20 minutes, now I just started with 600 grit (see pics below).
PB010065.jpg

PB010066.jpg


I plan to finish up this weekend, but even just as I started with the 600 grit I could shave hair....WOW, never thought I could sharpen a big blade anything close to this...THANKS MAN, YOU'RE THE BEST.

I also noticed that one side removed more metal near the tip, is this normal? The view from the top of the point is almost perfect (before one side was ground differently)...is it possible I just evened out the grind? Or is it more likely I just need more pratice when switching sides?

Note: your comments about "Feeling" the where the stone contacted the blade made all the difference...I've used a DMT for years...meixed results...but when I paid attn to the feel I could hold it the same every pass and get the results I've always wanted.

PS: The start of the second day (started a second bevel) I wasn't in tune with the FEEL... and caused more work for myself...I went back and marked it with ink to ensure I had the FEEL right before trying to correct my mistake, worked great.

I'll try to post more pic's so any comments are welcome (from anyone), thanks again.
 
You are going to freak out when you go back and do some chopping with the big blade. My CGFBM gained more than any other knife so far from a sweet convex job. If I remember correctly BAN did some chopping with my "cheap" CGFBM and was impressed. Way more bang for the buck than fatties.

Great work and thanks for the feed back about the "use the force and FEEL the stone thing. I was not sure if I was explaining that clearly enough.
 
Thanks to all of you who posted here, and especially to Justabuyer- I can't wait to try this.

A couple of questions (also, I want to keep this up where I can find it!)- Will the three sided diamond thing from Harbor Freight work?

As far as "tooth", is it better to just leave the edge rough and polish the bevel? Would it make a difference if you polished and then roughed up the edge (as opposed to just leaving it rough)?

Also, Mikeymoto- that blade looks awesome- when you get it as sharp as you want it, can you post again as to just how well it cuts?
 
A bump to bring it to a end... seems like a number of you did not post finished pics or talk about your final results. Just a quick shout out to the guys that have finished since this died down.

What do you think?
 
I'm still working on perfecting this technique. I've done 4 blades with it now. I've resorted to taping the blade so I don't get the sides all scratched up, and that works pretty well. I still haven't fixed (polished out the scratches from) the sides of the warden I did and posted pics of in this thread.
 
I just spent the last hour or so reading this thread....

I cannot wait for the weekend to come so I can start putting a convex edge on my user LMS.

Thank you for taking the time to post this information. (This is why I enjoy Bladeforums so much) all the little gems of information that you find by surfing around from forum to forum
 
Wow. Was this really almost 2 years ago????

I've RE-convexed 2 knives. I still don't trust it. Edge-pro is SOOOOO easy I prefer it. The SAR4LE is gonna be my first foray into maintaining a convex edge.

OK, truth be told, I resharpened a convex'd Battle Rat pretty well. Then I got a beater BEATER Basic 7 that I had to restore both sides of the asym edge. That was a bit scary until I realized how little steel 400 grit wet/dry paper actually removes. LOL

My 1 tip - I put my sandpaper over a magazine. Mouse pads are too soft. Ditto for newspaper. (Maybe I use too much.) Field & Stream is my go-to mag for touching up a convex edge.
 
Hey, I'm sat here right now re-convexing a blade myself!

I've got a 12" long, 2" wide piece of wood, with a thick leather belt (cut to fit) and some 400 grit paper, all held together by ranger bands (cut-up bicycle inner tube) on the ends.

You are right, most mouse mats are too soft, although I have a few that are firmer and OK for light touching up. Not for removing stock for the initial profiling though; it's just too tempting to speed things up (a.k.a. screw things up) by pushing harder.
 
Wow. Was this really almost 2 years ago????

I've RE-convexed 2 knives. I still don't trust it. Edge-pro is SOOOOO easy I prefer it. The SAR4LE is gonna be my first foray into maintaining a convex edge.

OK, truth be told, I resharpened a convex'd Battle Rat pretty well. Then I got a beater BEATER Basic 7 that I had to restore both sides of the asym edge. That was a bit scary until I realized how little steel 400 grit wet/dry paper actually removes. LOL

My 1 tip - I put my sandpaper over a magazine. Mouse pads are too soft. Ditto for newspaper. (Maybe I use too much.) Field & Stream is my go-to mag for touching up a convex edge.


How about Playboy - too soft (core) for convexing? Penthouse? Hahahaha....:D

Seriously though, should I convex the edge on that FFBM I just got?

Hiya Dennis.....
 
Hey Jonesy. PB might be good. PH has that odd stapled spine. It could get in the way of a good stropping.
 
I was a big believer in standard v-ground edges, mainly because I destroyed a couple of edges by attempting to convex them. I used DMT pocket stones, from x-coarse to med, then on to x-fine. I usually finished my knives on a sharpmaker with the fine and ex fine stones, and finished on a strop with .5 micron diamond spray from Handamerican.

I loved the results I got from that setup for the last couple of years on my knives (before that I hate to say, I frequented a local knife sharpener), but after getting a Busse I decided it was time to learn to properly convex an edge. I thought that a fixed blade would be easier to learn with, and Busse's were my first fixed blades.

I learned from a couple of videos on youtube the proper techniques to begin convexing myself, and a few months later these are the edges I can do now!

DSCN0515.jpg

DSCN0516.jpg

DSCN0537.jpg

DSCN0501.jpg


I use a leather covered notepad for my base, and use sandpaper from the local auto stores. I use 220 grit to reprofile a badly damaged or V-ground blade. I progress to 400 grit for finishing of the profile. To start really sharpening, I use 600, 800, 1000, 1200, 1500, and finally 2000 grit papers.
I finish all my knives with the aforementioned strop setup.

The process gets faster the higher grit you go, but from start to finish the processs usually takes an hour or so. The biggest advice that I can give, that videos cant properly describe, is that there is a definate "feel" to hitting the edge perfectly. If you feel like there is a lot of resistance, odds are you are at the wrong angle. You need light pressure on the knife, but as many have said before, too much and you have a butter knife on your hands.....
 
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