On-line class Edge re-profile/convex your Busse.

The Swamp Warden is now WICKED sharp, like a laser. The only other knife I have held that was sharper was a Krein piece with some ridiculously thin edge. The .5 micron paper was amazing at bringing out the sharpness, much like a loaded strop. You can get the paper from Veritas, but it doesn't last long and it's like $1.50 a sheet. I think you can get about 3 good sharpenings out of one sheet.
 
Great results man... Did sand paper impart enought convex for your likeing?

As you resharpen you will prolly never need to drop below 600 grit again. You can 'evolve your edge to be slightly thicker or thinner and vary the convex by hand now. Specially since you GROK the convex by feel concept
with the paper. In truth that may be the most important thing that has come out in this thread.
 
Surprisingly the extra time spent on the 600 grit is really what made all the difference. There is a nice convex to the edge, not straight in the least. The 1000 grit did some major polishing but the sharpness only went up slightly. I think that with the toughness of SR101 and the prevelance to rust I will probably go back down to 1000 for EDC. I think for wood work 600 is as you said, the best all around. It feels like D2 with that 600 edge, toothy and aggressive. GREAT PROJECT!!!!! :) Makes me think about my RD9 though............
 
007 Agent ZZero said:
Surprisingly the extra time spent on the 600 grit is really what made all the difference. There is a nice convex to the edge, not straight in the least. The 1000 grit did some major polishing but the sharpness only went up slightly. I think that with the toughness of SR101 and the prevalence to rust I will probably go back down to 1000 for EDC. I think for wood work 600 is as you said, the best all around. It feels like D2 with that 600 edge, toothy and aggressive. GREAT PROJECT!!!!! :) Makes me think about my RD9 though............
Click to expand...


Just to be clear when I said you will never need to go lower than 600 again I meant as a starting grit for re-sharpening the knife as you use it.

600 in My opinion is to toothy for a final finish. The edge last longer with more polish. But your right man...at 600 grit that is where the magic happens. Also the finer the polish..the more rust resistant.
 
My blender warden is done. The edge was a success even though I can't whittle hairs like Vassilli, but it is past shaving sharp. I tried to go for a zero edge and was not successful, but nevertheless I have ended up with an extremely thin edge. This is a slicer for sure, though I'm also quite sure the edge isn't very strong.

For the bad news: I really horqued up the flats on this warden. I got lazy using sandpaper to clean up the flats so I made the grave error of trying to use my HF belt sander to quickly take the scratches out of the flats. This resulted in a slight bevel along the spine and some scuffing from the joint on my 40 micron belt. I also ground off most of the logo on the left side....that 40 micron belt hogged it off in no time.

So after that disaster I decided to work on the edge and forget about making the flats pretty for the time being, this class being about the edge and all. I will go back sometime and clean up the flats, and try to remove the logo altogether.

I went from XXC, to course, to fine on the Dia-Sharp stones, then I used 400, 1200, 2000 wet/dry SiC sandpaper, then I finished it off on leather charged with the green stuff from Lee Valley. I can shave hairs, push cut newspaper, but I can't whittle hairs. I am pretty sure if I went through the sandpaper and stropping again with a lighter touch I could do it, because I probably used too much down force on the blade during those stages.

I'll see if I can go take some pics of my nasty looking but sharp blade.
 
mikeymoto said:
I have ended up with an extremely thin edge. This is a slicer for sure, though I'm also quite sure the edge isn't very strong.

For the bad news: I really horqued up the flats on this warden. I got lazy using sandpaper to clean up the flats so I made the grave error of trying to use my HF belt sander to quickly take the scratches out of the flats. This resulted in a slight bevel along the spine and some scuffing from the joint on my 40 micron belt. I also ground off most of the logo on the left side....that 40 micron belt hogged it off in no time.
Click to expand...

Stronger than you may think. Look forward to seeing it.

Then we are going to have to burn you for being a witch. ( belt sanders are witch tools) :D
 
I really am embarrassed posting these pics here, but for the sake of showing that I completed the course (with, maybe a C-) and for the entertainment of others I will do so. I apologize for the bad focus on the macros :barf:. I've been drinking tonight and just wanted some quick photos.

This first pic shows the logo mostly gone, and the reflected light gives a good idea of the new edge profile (and, errr the new profile of some parts of the flats :mad:):
1813095332_7736792fea_b.jpg


Just the blade on the logo side. Trust me, I know it can use lots of work. There's time.
1813094348_d88cb31fe9_b.jpg


Now here are some shots comparing the new edge to the .220 edge from Busse. The tip has had some dramatic work on the Dia-Sharp stones:
1812252443_213748ad59_b.jpg


Bevel shot:
1812254389_44c4acafee_b.jpg


And lastly a side view of the tips:
1813096758_7e57503ffa_b.jpg


:foot:
 
I think it looks like a very good start to a full convex grind mikeymoto. If you go to sandpaper back with 2 mousepads and start from 400 grit and work all the way up to 1000, SLOWLY, you could probably get a very nice full height convex and high satin finish. Just remember to concentrate your pressure midway between the spine and edge.
 
mikeymoto said:
I really am embarrassed posting these pics here, but for the sake of showing that I completed the course (with, maybe a C-) and for the entertainment of others I will do so. I apologize for the bad focus on the macros :barf:. I've been drinking tonight and just wanted some quick photos.

This first pic shows the logo mostly gone, and the reflected light gives a good idea of the new edge profile (and, errr the new profile of some parts of the flats :mad:):
1813095332_7736792fea_b.jpg


Just the blade on the logo side. Trust me, I know it can use lots of work. There's time.
1813094348_d88cb31fe9_b.jpg


Now here are some shots comparing the new edge to the .220 edge from Busse. The tip has had some dramatic work on the Dia-Sharp stones:
1812252443_213748ad59_b.jpg


Bevel shot:
1812254389_44c4acafee_b.jpg


And lastly a side view of the tips:
1813096758_7e57503ffa_b.jpg


:foot:
Click to expand...

Yowza that is a nice thin edge you have there. I am sure that thing can slice like crazy. You can fix up those scratches with some lower grit sand paper and some elbow grease.
 
I agree man, forget the cosmetic stuff for now. THAT IS A GREAT OUTCOME.

That thing is going to out cut factory by a factor of 10 I bet!! You really captured the intent of this class. Further more the tip profile is just about perfect.

GOOD WORK MAN!
 
Thanks for the feedback. :thumbup:

Usually when I'm sharpening and want to knock off a burr I take a couple orthogonal swipes at the edge of my workbench...it's a pretty soft wood but generally does the trick. I knew I was doing *something* right because when I went to knock off the burr before hitting the 2000 SiC paper the edge really went deep into the table! That was reassuring.

I tried to get a feel for when the paper was grinding too high (above the secondary bevel, but in my case there isn't a big delineator there) or too low (i.e. on the edge itself) and that helped a lot, even though it was hard to tell at all times.

What range of grit do you normally go through with the paper? Again I used 400, 1200, then 2000. Would you argue for using more grits inbetween?
 
You went from what looks like a 70 degree edge angle to a 25% edge angle.

I bet that thing slices like crazy now. :thumbup:
 
Well guys are we done? Time to call this one done?

I hope you guys enjoyed it as much as I did. I also hope that because of the basic skills we talked about in this thread. A few more Busse collectors and admirers have the confidence to use the knives now knowing that they can not only restore but improve the edge.

Woot!

Jim
 
I would imagine that this thread will live a long life as we continue to learn and experiment.

I suggest that we keep posting sharpening-related ideas and questions here so that we can all continue to improve and refine our skill.

Justabuyer, thank you for taking the initiative and getting us started! :thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:
 
Justabuyer said:
Well guys are we done? Time to call this one done?

I hope you guys enjoyed it as much as I did. I also hope that because of the basic skills we talked about in this thread. A few more Busse collectors and admirers have the confidence to use the knives now knowing that they can not only restore but improve the edge.

Woot!

Jim
Click to expand...

LOL... Done??? I'm STILL waiting for my stones!!! :eek: ...But, while waiting, I did find a stripped & polished ABA in need of a sharp edge, so that'll be the knife chosen. I'm guessing backorder problems, so I'll follow the thread instructions when the package finally arrives.
 
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