Ontario RAT 3 review

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markksr said:
And starting 3 or 4 threads showing the same ridiculously contrived photos to back up your asinine complaints isn't a "review".

It is trolling with the intent to bash a company, and this is all you have done here, over and over again.
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Not a single word about " company ", just RAT 3. I don't care for any company at all. But if we talk about decent company Buck is such one for example (not the only one ).
 
cabala said:
Nobody asks till now. Choice of steel is absolutely wrong:
- 1095 isn't steel witch is easy to resharpen in outdoors
- canvas micarta soaks water, blood, gasoline etc. witch means can rotten, accidentally burned, or can hold tainted blood.
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Thanks for pointing out that you don't know the first thing about steel or Phenolic laminates.
 
The day ANY micarta will rot will not come. So, what have you cut with it and how did it do?
 
It is fair to say why I have such opinion about this knife. First of all, for price of one RAT I can buy three " true flight throwers " from Cold Steel. This knife is three times better of RAT 3 in every way. Second, for same price you can buy Buck mod. 119 who is maybe " old fashion " but absolutely winner for any outdoor use. If Buck have black version that would be number one combat knife in serial production.
 
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mmmotorcycle said:
The day ANY micarta will rot will not come. So, what have you cut with it and how did it do?
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P1060009.jpg


For your eyes only! In one cut!
 
cabala said:
Please learn me something, or you better go to " wine and cheese " too.
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canvas micarta, though somewhat porous, will not "hold" liquids. it will absorb, to some extent, but tends to dry very quickly.

i can't imagine it rotting either.

also, its density makes it very difficult to burn. even soaked in gasoline.

were your concerns valid, there would not be so many manufactures using the various types of micarta, they would all use some form of plastic.
 
MORIMOTOM said:
canvas micarta, though somewhat porous, will not "hold" liquids. it will absorb, to some extent, but tends to dry very quickly.

i can't imagine it rotting either.

also, its density makes it very difficult to burn. even soaked in gasoline.

were your concerns valid, there would not be so many manufactures using the various types of micarta, they would all use some form of plastic.
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I won't try to burn handle because of " review "! Too much is too much.
 
cabala said:
Canvas in micarta will rot.
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Ummmmm.....no, it won't.

When I was first introduced to the material I thought the same thing until I did a bit of research into the materials...Micarta is more absorbant than G-10 but will not rot liked stacked leather or some stabilized woods. Please, research it a bit youself....the results might surprise you!
 
cabala said:
Nobody asks till now. Choice of steel is absolutely wrong:
- 1095 isn't steel witch is easy to resharpen in outdoors
- canvas micarta soaks water, blood, gasoline etc. witch means can rotten, accidentally burned, or can hold tainted blood.

I sharpen both knives like razors, now my wife will test endurance, edge retention, fit and finish in " kitchen environment ". edge retention, fit and finish.
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cabala said:
It is fair to say why I have such opinion about this knife. First of all, for price of one RAT I can buy three " true flight throwers " from Cold Steel. This knife is three times better of RAT 3 in every way. Second, for same price you can buy Buck mod. 119 who is maybe " old fashion " but absolutely winner for any outdoor use. If Buck have black version that would be number one combat knife in serial production.
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I have to say that I find it odd that you prefer the True Flight Thrower in 1055 to the RAT in 1095.

While it is true that 1055 is extremely easy to sharpen, 1095 is only a little bit harder to sharpen than 420HC, which you find acceptable in a Buck 119. 1055 is terrible for edge retention. 1095 is considerably better than 420HC. 1095 is so much better than 1055 that you might be able to do the entire trip without needing to resharpen the RAT at all.

If you are having problems sharpening 1095 in the field, perhaps you need to refine your woodland sharpening skills.
 
The Cold Steal Thrower is worthless as a knife, and barely passable as a thrower.

cabala, you have no idea what you are talking about.
 
cabala said:
P1060040.jpg


Nobody asks till now. Choice of steel is absolutely wrong:
- 1095 isn't steel witch is easy to resharpen in outdoors
- canvas micarta soaks water, blood, gasoline etc. witch means can rotten, accidentally burned, or can hold tainted blood.
Click to expand...

cabala said:
Not a single word about " company ", just RAT 3. I don't care for any company at all. But if we talk about decent company Buck is such one for example (not the only one ).
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You say 1095 isn't easy to sharpen in the field...then you throw out the name Buck?! Just out of curiosity...which models are you referring to, and how much time have you spent actually working with these knives in the field.

I've owned several Bucks, fixed and folders...I explored lots of wilderness and swamps in the Hillsborough River area in Tampa and spent a lot of time on the bay the gulf and along the shores working with a Buck 119 as a kid and a teenager (long ago). At the time there were few options easily available with as good a rust resistance (which Buck 119s are great at) but has been my experience that the steel Buck used in those old 119s was hard and brittle and very hard to sharpen in the field. In my opinion that makes it a poor choice for edc. They may have changed their steel by now...I don't know, I haven't bought another since I broke the last one in the winter of 1979.
 
mistwalker said:
You say 1095 isn't easy to sharpen in the field...then you throw out the name Buck?! Just out of curiosity...which models are you referring to, and how much time have you spent actually working with these knives in the field.

I've owned several Bucks, fixed and folders...I explored lots of wilderness and swamps in the Hillsborough River area in Tampa and spent a lot of time on the bay the gulf and along the shores working with a Buck 119 as a kid and a teenager (long ago). At the time there were few options easily available with as good a rust resistance (which Buck 119s are great at) but has been my experience that the steel Buck used in those old 119s was hard and brittle and very hard to sharpen in the field. In my opinion that makes it a poor choice for edc. They may have changed their steel by now...I don't know, I haven't bought another since I broke the last one in the winter of 1979.
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The ones you used were 440C
Buck has changed steels twice since then.
Their current alloy (since ~1990 IIRC) for the 119 is 420HC, which they heat treat to ~58. Very easy to sharpen. Holds an edge somewhat less well than AUS8 of equal hardness. I find 1095 hardened to ~58 HRC to be a bit more resistant to sharpening than 420HC, but the 1095 holds an edge considerably better than AUS8, again of equal hardness.

420HC is a reasonable stainless alloy for an outdoors knife. But I would consider 1095 to be better.
 
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