Opinion on non-traditional wood for axe handle

[FortyTwoBlades]

You'll note that the eye dimensions on Euro axes seems to trend towards the large side. I think this was likely to compensate for the comparatively lower strength of beech.

 

[chuxwan]

I made an ipe handle for an old axe head that I totally reshaped and sold. It was only about a 24" so the shock really didn't feel bad and I loved the added stiffness in feel. Customer is more than satisfied as well.

 

[killa_concept]

I think the question should be more based around the intended length of the handle than the weight of the head - after all, handle length dictates the sort of usage the axe can realistically be called upon to accomplish. While I really like the look of Alocksly's axe, the fact that the head was previously a full sized 3.5 lb has no real bearing when it's mostly being used for hatchet chores - not being subjected to the stresses that would go along with high velocity two-handed swings.

Personally, I'm confident a person could use just about any wood that isn't incredibly brittle for a 10 to 14" hatchet handle - it probably won't see enough stress to cause catastrophic failure. I've used cherrywood to good effect and have been thinking about giving osage orange a go. I'd be willing to experiment with non-traditional woods (if they have decent grain and some give) until about 24" in length for up to 2.5 lb heads. Past that all bets are off and I'd stick to tried and true woods like hickory and ash just for fear of serious injury should the handle break.

Really though, if you're wanting to have a fun time woodworking, you can always go the route I did: play around with handle designs/patterns on softwood then order up some hickory handle blanks to finalize your efforts. They don't list it anywhere on their site, but I contacted House Handles and they did sell me blanks. The cost was (to me) very reasonable and I opted to pay a little extra for each to be hand selected for good grain and orientation:

Admittedly, the shipping did end up being a bit spendy and I didn't quite anticipate it (though I really should have, considering I ordered 7 of them and the total weight was nearly 40lbs).

They did make for some nice woodworking projects though and I have been very happy with how these two handles turned out:

Still have five full sized blanks and one hatchet blank to use too!

 

[Nathan Welsh]

Osage Orange is often used in tool handles where it grows, and it's absolutely tough as hell. Right up there with hickory, if not better. Also, as OO ages, it tends to change color from a lighter yellow/green to a darker and darker orange color. It might not be everybody's cup of tea, but I think it's really pretty.

Problem is that if you can't find old growth of it, the young trees tend not to be particularly straight, so getting good working pieces can be tricky. I suggest getting on ebay. A lot of mom and pop sawmills have started up and sell their wood on there. I've seen several osage orange staves for bows, which would be perfect to make a couple of axe handles out of.

 

[chuxwan]

The local ironwood here (muscle wood) is unbelievably tough. If you could get a straight enough section for the length of handle you wanted and dry it properly, I have no doubt it would perform at level with hickory.

 

[300Six]

The local ironwood here (muscle wood) is unbelievably tough. If you could get a straight enough section for the length of handle you wanted and dry it properly, I have no doubt it would perform at level with hickory.

Much like you, up this way Blue Beech (the Canadian name for the 'Muscle-Wood' version of Ironwood) is not uncommon but rarely straight nor large enough diameter to produce a decent handle. But you ain't kidding about it being tough! Ordinary Ironwood (Hop Hornbeam, the more specific name for it) is similarly strong and durable and does grow to diameters of 10-12 inches around here but to gather up blanks that are straight and free of burls, knots and blemishes requires a lot of work and wasted material. You just cannot split that stuff! None of these are available commercially despite the historical reputation for being so incredibly tough that they quickly dull a sharp axe. In a perfect world we should be able to buy and use Ironwood handles but the economy of supply, demand and harvest are just not suited to large commercial operations.

 

[Skiv]

Not to imply that I think this is a great tool, but I have seen laminated handles on hatchets like this one. I'm not sold on the handle, the design overall OR on the stainless head. But at least somebody's offering a laminated handle, birch in this case. I suspect it's the "Baltic Birch" I can get at the lumber yard. I'd make the top of a treadle sewing machine table out of it (in fact, I am) but as a striking tool handle it just seems wrong. But I might be talking out from under my hat; if anyone has further insight I'd love to hear it.

300Six: I'd love to have a chunk of hop-hornbeam to make a handle! Got just the head for it, too.

 

[300Six]

Not to imply that I think this is a great tool, but I have seen laminated handles on hatchets like this one. I'm not sold on the handle, the design overall OR on the stainless head. But at least somebody's offering a laminated handle, birch in this case. I suspect it's the "Baltic Birch" I can get at the lumber yard. I'd make the top of a treadle sewing machine table out of it (in fact, I am) but as a striking tool handle it just seems wrong. But I might be talking out from under my hat; if anyone has further insight I'd love to hear it.

300Six: I'd love to have a chunk of hop-hornbeam to make a handle! Got just the head for it, too.

Baltic Birch is not very hard nor resilient to outdoor use but it is way better than domestic plywood. It is not rated 'marine grade' meaning it cannot be expected to hold up (the glue) to repeated soaking or humidity. If ever I get the gumption to tangle with some nice clear Ironwood lumber I most certainly will alert everyone here. Most folks steer clear of the larger trees only because the wood is hard and heavy and can't be split on site unless you have the benefit of heavy duty hydraulics. Dealing with 3 and 4 foot lengths would be a sonuvagun.

 

[chuxwan]

Wood names are funny, eh? I guess you wouldn't call it American Hornbeam like we do here
Carpinus Caroliniana in any case. I did find some about 10" diameter and 12 or so feet of straight trunk, but I'd never cut it down for handles because I never see it that size and shape. I doubt a storm'll knock it over either so I may just never have a proper handle out of the stuff. Actually once I had a piece that had almost perfect handle shape to it. I hiked out of the woods, drove half an hour to the shop and it was already too checked.

 

[300Six]

..... But at least somebody's offering a laminated handle, birch in this case. I suspect it's the "Baltic Birch" I can get at the lumber yard. I'd make the top of a treadle sewing machine table out of it (in fact, I am) but as a striking tool handle it just seems wrong. But I might be talking out from under my hat; if anyone has further insight I'd love to hear it.

Many years ago a retired engine/airframe mechanic, who had serviced de Havilland Mosquito fighter/bombers during the war, showed me a bin full of 'aircraft patches' of various sizes and thicknesses that he'd squirreled away. This was birch plywood (presumably White Birch because of the pale colour) but somewhere in the order of 4-6 (or maybe even 8) ply every 1/8 inch. Some of us know that Mosquitoes were entirely constructed of plywood (along with being powered by two 1800 hp 1320 cu. in. gas engines!) and that they were capable of enduring a proverbial pounding. If that manufacturing technology were resurrected (white birch must have been relatively easy to peel into thin sheets) and adapted for making tool handles I'd be the first one to want to try it out.

 

[300Six]

Wood names are funny, eh? I guess you wouldn't call it American Hornbeam like we do here
Carpinus Caroliniana in any case. I did find some about 10" diameter and 12 or so feet of straight trunk, but I'd never cut it down for handles because I never see it that size and shape. I doubt a storm'll knock it over either so I may just never have a proper handle out of the stuff. Actually once I had a piece that had almost perfect handle shape to it. I hiked out of the woods, drove half an hour to the shop and it was already too checked.

Found an excuse, because of this thread, to walk(?) my cabin fever-ed Beagle through my local and favourite woodlot this very warm and sunny afternoon.






All of the pictured trees are "Ironwoods" (yer basic Hop Hornbeam). First is a "beaut", 12 inches across and 60 feet high (that's my glove lying in the deep snow, by the way) and the second picture is an example of what these trees are like in the other direction. It's gnarly and 10 inches across and there is nothing there (except for the decorative woodwork lathe turner) for any of us in the way of predictable tool handles. Other two pictured trees are what is considered 'normal' for a mature Ironwood. First tree has useable (but marginal at best other than for a few straight slabs) wood for the first 8 feet and that's about it. This particular bush lot (Ottawa, Ontario, Canada), nearby me, also has magnificent Bitternut Hickories (rare in Canada), Sugar Maples and Red Oaks (plus a few Black Cherries, White Oaks and White Ashes) that are big and straight, and any single one of those trees could easily produce more good quality axe handles than all of the one-two hundred on site mature Ironwoods put together.

 

[lightsoutcalls]

Anyone ever try black locust for handle material? It is a very hard wood that is used for decking, fence posts, etc. I have never tried it, but would think it hard enough to use.

 

[Skiv]

(that's my glove lying in the deep snow, by the way)

...and tomorrow, when you realize you only have ONE glove in yer coat, you'll take the dog out again. But you'll know exactly which tree to head for because you have pictures. (Stop looking at me that way. I do it all the time.)

This particular bush lot (Ottawa, Ontario, Canada), nearby me, also has magnificent Bitternut Hickories (rare in Canada), Sugar Maples and Red Oaks (plus a few Black Cherries, White Oaks and White Ashes) that are big and straight, and any single one of those trees could easily produce more good quality axe handles than all of the one-two hundred on site mature Ironwoods put together.

I get what yer sayin', and you're right -- in a lot of ways it makes no sense to cut down an ironwood to get a small batch of handles and maybe a lot of wood that you can't use. I can't see ME doing it, anyway. I probably will never have that ironwood axe handle, but if one comes my way I will for dang sure cherish the gift from the tree and be properly thankful.

 

[300Six]

I get what yer sayin', and you're right -- in a lot of ways it makes no sense to cut down an ironwood to get a small batch of handles and maybe a lot of wood that you can't use. I can't see ME doing it, anyway. I probably will never have that ironwood axe handle, but if one comes my way I will for dang sure cherish the gift from the tree and be properly thankful.

Ironwoods are considered 'garbage trees' by forest management types and are invariably marked with a red "X" when woodlot owners seek a professional opinion on what to cull and what to promote. So don't give up hopes on getting hold of a slab of this stuff. My major obstacles are finding a way to get useable lengths out of the forest and on to a sympathetic mill owner that is willing to cut it up. The word "Ironwood" seems only to be appreciated by local folks that enjoy overnight hot coals in their campfires, stoves and fireplaces.

 

[Alocksly]

Ironwoods are considered 'garbage trees' by forest management types and are invariably marked with a red "X" when woodlot owners seek a professional opinion on what to cull and what to promote. So don't give up hopes on getting hold of a slab of this stuff. My major obstacles are finding a way to get useable lengths out of the forest and on to a sympathetic mill owner that is willing to cut it up. The word "Ironwood" seems only to be appreciated by local folks that enjoy overnight hot coals in their campfires, stoves and fireplaces.

Sounds like good company.

 

[300Six]

[/B]
Sounds like good company.

The very truth! After spending 2 weeks of living in a tent and burning 'pecker poles' (severely stunted Black Spruce) for warmth and cooking while caribou hunting along the edge of the tree line north of Yellowknife, North West Territories I air-freighted my host a 50 pound box of seasoned Ironwood rounds so that his kids could experience a real hardwood fire. He knew what the stuff was (former resident of Ottawa) and saved it for a cold spell during a midwinter snowmobile foray out to a sort-of winterized cabin with a woodstove. His son and daughter were suitably impressed that it didn't hiss and spark and that they didn't have to feed that fire for quite a while.

 

[chuxwan]

Nice pics. I wish we had sugar maples down here.

Lightsoutcalls, I think black locust might do alright.

 

[M3mphis]

One of the key features of hickory that makes a great axe handle is the elasticity. Look back at the link from Square Peg. Just being "tough" is not the only consideration.

In my experience, hornbeam dries and hardens for years and years. After hornbeam has had a chance to really cure, it is so hard that it does not handle shock well at all. I can only image that a full size axe on a hornbeam handle would be uncomfortable to use. That's just my experience in a semi-arid desert where things really get dry. I suppose if you don't intend to use it much, the wood properties don't really matter anyway.

Curly grained woods are pretty, but very unpredictable. There's just no way to know where they will let go. An axe or hammer application involves shock and leverage; curly wood is not well suited for either.

 

[300Six]

Nice pics. I wish we had sugar maples down here.
Lightsoutcalls, I think black locust might do alright.

From what I understand Black Locust is strong and durable. Finding a nice straight piece with good grain orientation might be a problem but I'll be the first to say "Go for it". I happen to have a vintage chopping axe with an American Elm handle and it sure looks to have endured nearly a century of use and abuse without any protest.

 

[blasto9000]

Just popping by since I haven't logged in for a few days. I've read every post carefully and copied/pasted a lot of notes to my OneNote notebook. Just want to thank you all for sharing your knowledge and experience and carrying on an overall stimulating an informative conversation!

Last weekend I did pop by Rockler and picked up a few sticks of maple and red oak to practice carving on. Coming from a machining background (where the machine does all the cutting), experiencing the sensation of severing wood fibers with a simple, sharp hand tool has been a very interesting, fun, and relaxing pursuit. It's a great way to unwind after my hour-and-40-minute commute home from work.

BTW, here's something you guys will get a kick out of. Home Depot had a set of three made-in-USA Buck Bros. chisels for $20. I fingered the package for a while, but had other chores to do so left the chisels, all the while my lizard hindbrain was telling me to purchase them.

Next day I was in Horrible Freight to get a cleaning stick for my belt sander. Wouldn't you know, they had a knockoff set of Buck Bros. chisels for $7. I bought them, but only out of convenience. I'd still rather have had the Buck Bros.

So I got the HF chisels home, stripped the varnish, machined the faces and edges true/square on my milling machine, ground the rest on oilstones, and finally sharpened and honed the edges. They turned out SUPER sharp, with a mirror finish on the edge. Cut the oak and maple like butter.... but! Only for about three small strokes!

Now, I was only driving the chisel by hand, not even palm-strikes. The HF chisel edges just rolled up and went jagged.

I thought maybe I didn't fully strop them, or maybe the bevel angle was too acute (20.0° exactly -- as determined by a sine bar).

So I pulled out some old rusty Stanley (U.S.) chisels that I bought from a pawn shop for a dollar each, and squared/stoned/sharpened/honed them in the same exact way as the HF chisels. And they just cut and cut and cut with no problems.

Yeah, I should have known better, but it didn't really occur to me that there would be such a wide difference in the quality of a simple carbon steel. The HF chisels were only $7, but let's just say that three hours I spent truing them would have been better spent elsewhere!

ETA: I especially enjoyed the links provided with technical info on wood strength/stiffness... will have to dig deeper on that front just because these types of specs make sense to me. My usual source for quick research on materials is matweb.com. I just went there, typed in "Hickory," and, well, the results were irrelevant. ;-)