Ordered RD-4

Got a chance to take a small tree down today with my new RD-4. It performed very well at the task.

With that 4.5" knife, I was able to take a 4" diameter Sumac tree down. It did take a good amount of cuts but it got the job done. I am not sure too many other knives of that size could accomplish that feat. This is a great knife, there is no doubt about it. I also de-limbed the whole tree. With the thinner branches, only one or two swings was needed.

I always thought, I would need a large chopper to get branches for shelter making, but the RD-4 changed that.

My hands were a little sore but not that bad. Definitely would not be an issue in an emergency.
 
Glad your liking it bro, get some pics up soon !

I'm toying with having one made from 3/16", now you can see one in person how'd ya think one in 3/16" would be ?
 
Pitdog,

I am usually the guy who thinks 1/4" is overkill for a survival knife. I don't think 3/16th could take the tree down that I did today. I think your wrist would tire out first.

The RD-4 has got weight but not too much. I do some Kali knife work and this is not out of range for that. Of course, I would love a lighter knife but sometimes you need a versatile tool.

I have to agree with Skammer about this. He is always touting this line and

That all said, I still want a RAT-3 for short day hikes in accessible public wilderness.
 
It seems the only reasons for thick blades is to add weight and/or add lateral stiffness, presumably for prying. I suppose if they're really thick, they may be good for splitting, too. But thickness always comes at the expense of fine slicing ability. And lots of folks would never think of doing any significant splitting or prying with a knife. Thus, the debate goes on.

Personally, I find thick blades have much more aesthetic rather than practical appeal.
 
Shecky, I agree with you that alot of people like thick blades for aesthetic reasons.
However I have found, The extra weight digs deeper into the wood. There is no way a 1/8" blade will cut with the power of a 1/4" Also when carving bushcraft, the weight of the knife can decrease the amount of muscular force needed. In a smaller lighter knife you will have to push through it.

I don't think thickness alone determines slicing ability alot has to do with grind.
I have a 4" tanto with a cantled edge on a 3/16th thick blade and the RD-4 will out slice it because the Rd has a flat grind. I love Cliff's work on this.
 
The major reason I like this RD4 is that I don't want to take too much stuff with me. It usually boils down to 1 or 2 knives. And I need 1 or 2 GOOD strong knives.

That RD4 is small enough to carry easy and thick enough to split wood VERY easy, because of it's thickness.
For me this knife comes close to the "be all do all knife".
The RAT-3 is a great slicer, and fantastic overall small knife for EDC. I've split some small logs with it, but it's not giving so much confidence as the RD4. It's actually flexing a little during splitting! But there was no permanent damage to the RAT-3 at all. These 2 knives are 2 different knives of their own, both great and good users.

For better handling you could wrap some bike inner tube around the RD4 handle.

Tools allways have their trade offs, the only thing to deal with these trade offs, is to use your mind or just get over it and stop whining.....:D

CZ
 
Hey chrisaloia...congrats on getting the RD4!!!

Sounds like you are having fun with it...keep letting us know what you've done with it!
 
My apologies if you are tired of this thread.

More commments on the RD-4.

The grind was very steep out of box but razor sharp. It dulled quickly. I am familiar with 5160, which dulls quickly. I reground it and man is that thing is sharp and will hold an edge for a longer time.

The sheath is pitiful. I thought at first the sheath was acceptable. I would not even use it for a short hike. So I will be purchasing a kydex pretty soon.

I still think it is one of the best small survival knives on the market.

I am going to purchase an F-1 down the road and do a side by side comparison. I think the VG10 will be a big plus.

I would like to see for myself the edge holding abilities during same task usage between 5160 and VG10.
 
I've notice the blade dulls quickly too, but responds better to stropping than almost any other blade I've had, just a few swipes on the strop, and its shaving again. I think it dulls more due to oxidizing than blunting. I agree about the sheath, the closer is in the wrong place, it should be against the handle, not in the middle. The knife will slide right out if you turn it upside down. I had a IWB kydex made, and am having a leather pocket sheath made for my RD 3.5.
 
chrisaloia said:
My apologies if you are tired of this thread.

More commments on the RD-4.

The grind was very steep out of box but razor sharp. It dulled quickly. I am familiar with 5160, which dulls quickly. I reground it and man is that thing is sharp and will hold an edge for a longer time.

The sheath is pitiful. I thought at first the sheath was acceptable. I would not even use it for a short hike. So I will be purchasing a kydex pretty soon.

I still think it is one of the best small survival knives on the market.

I am going to purchase an F-1 down the road and do a side by side comparison. I think the VG10 will be a big plus.

I would like to see for myself the edge holding abilities during same task usage between 5160 and VG10.
Click to expand...

Why did it dull quickly yet hold it's edge after you re-sharpened it ?
 
I didn't notice any fast dulling. I've done some serious woodwork with it, as you can read above. And yes, it's very responsive to stropping. It gets really hairpopping sharp after a few strokes on the strop.
Again, I found it to keep an edge very VERY long. I reprofiled the edge to 25deg. And yes, the sheath could be a lot better, but hey, for the money I'm not going to complain at all. It's the steel that counts for me! :D

CZ
 
pitdog said:
Why did it dull quickly yet hold it's edge after you re-sharpened it ?
Click to expand...


Pitdog,
I find 5160 dulls pretty quick. A longer grind or narrower angle will hold an edge longer than a steep grind. Cliff Stamp has done tons of research on this. If you search on edge geometry, on this board or knife maintence board you will turn up his research.

Simply put a narrower angle has more edge, a steeper angle has less edge.
 
pitdog said:
Glad your liking it bro, get some pics up soon !

I'm toying with having one made from 3/16", now you can see one in person how'd ya think one in 3/16" would be ?
Click to expand...

Get one and don't look back! You'll regret the nonaction forever!:cool:;)

My 3/16th is much more of a slicer than a chopper. It handles well and has held it's edge quite well with a little reprofiling. It has even stood up aganst some accindental nail impacts when battoning with it. In short: it's a Mora 2000 with a little more heft.
 
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