Out of the Box Sharpness Doesn't Matter?

Out of the box sharpness is important for me. Mostly because I usually just do freehand touchups with my sharpmaker rods and prefer greatly not to have to reprofile with the sharpening tools I have.

That said what is more important than the actual literal sharpness is that the edge bevels are smooth, fairly even and consistant. That makes it way easier for me to feel when my edge is laying flat against the rod. I also tend to prever wider edge bevels (wider in the edge to spine direction, not wider as in thicker edge inclusive) because it is more flat surface for me to feel laying on the stone.

Agreed! Out of box sharpness is definitely a nice touch.
 
I wouldn't be too happy if I bought a brand new car and they expected me to install the gas tank myself.;)
Buy are you, personally, supposed to swap out tanks once this one goes bad?

A knife edge is expected to be maintained by the end user.

A more accurate comparison was if you were to buy a new car and it didn't have washer fluid in the reservoir when you left the lot...
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Personally, I don't care either way. If a knife is sharp, I will often let it die from a factory edge, if it is an alloy that I am not familiar with. This will give me some idea as to what I am in for, in regards to maintenance schedule and the properties of the alloy.

If I know the alloy already, I will often hand sharpen prior to use. Especially considering that having a factory burnt edge is a possibility. Granted some brands are more prone to this than others, but it is accepted that some knives will perform better after a few sharpenings. Why not get one out of the way early...
 
I prefer a perfect edge myself but never expect one. The edges are sooo much better now than when I was younger.
My main concern with edges nowadays is over grinding from the factory.
 
I agree. I have found most Benchmade knives have decent factory edges, whereas, years ago they weren't impressive.
My first 940 had a very obtuse edge. My second 940 was way overground and required a blade replacement. At least the obtuse edge gave me plenty of steel to create an edge to my liking.
 
My first 940 had a very obtuse edge. My second 940 was way overground and required a blade replacement. At least the obtuse edge gave me plenty of steel to create an edge to my liking.
I've had goodluck recently with Benchmade edges. But, every single ZT knife I buy has a bad edge. I have a 566, 562, 770 and they are so asymmetrical. I am by no means an expert but I need someone to reprofile them.
 
I've had goodluck recently with Benchmade edges. But, every single ZT knife I buy has a bad edge. I have a 566, 562, 770 and they are so asymmetrical. I am by no means an expert but I need someone to reprofile them.
My wife and I both have Manix 2 LWs with asymmetrical grinds. Both very sharp mind you but one side is noticeably higher than the other. Mine is in BD1 steel and I have gotten it pretty close on the Sharpmaker.
 
I've purchased many different kinds of knives, for work(construction in concrete, as an electrician, and systems support), home(kitchen, and tasks like cutting rope/tile/carpeting), and pleasure(a Chris Reeve, RMJ Tactical, or military grade knife) and I always expect them to be razor sharp.

Can you imagine buying a tile or carpet cutting tool and finding that the enclosed razor blades are not sharp? Is there an unwritten rule?

How abt a wire stripping tool that I used as an electrician? If it's not sharp, I'd immediately take it back. All professionals expect their tools to cut out of the box.

Also, in all the kitchen knives I've purchased, NONE has ever been dull they've been extremely sharp. I hit them carefully with warm water and soap and we are ready to go.

So, I expect my "other" knives from whoever it may be to be razor sharp. It is a defect any other way.
 
Buy are you, personally, supposed to swap out tanks once this one goes bad?

A knife edge is expected to be maintained by the end user.

A more accurate comparison was if you were to buy a new car and it didn't have washer fluid in the reservoir when you left the lot...
-----
Personally, I don't care either way. If a knife is sharp, I will often let it die from a factory edge, if it is an alloy that I am not familiar with. This will give me some idea as to what I am in for, in regards to maintenance schedule and the properties of the alloy.

If I know the alloy already, I will often hand sharpen prior to use. Especially considering that having a factory burnt edge is a possibility. Granted some brands are more prone to this than others, but it is accepted that some knives will perform better after a few sharpenings. Why not get one out of the way early...
Good points. I was trying to look at it from the point of view of someone that doesn't sharpen their own knives and will send them to someone when they need edge maintenance. Personally I like my knives to be sharp out of the box to see what they can do with the factory edge. Then I like to compare the edge that I put on them once they're dull with the factory edge.
 
Good god. These people write for a living? I’m no grammar nazi but damn. OP, do you read this junk often? I’d rather sit quietly staring off into space then read that crap.
 
A knife should definately be sharp out of the box as its purpose is to cut things of course.
To not have a good cutting edge from new is more like buying a car and finding out the engine doesn't run .
Sharpening is fine and to be expected after use but its not so clever having to sharpen a blade to use it for the first time.
Feels like sloppy work to me sending out a cutting tool which cuts poorly or not at all .
 
Sharpness expectations should be related to price too. A $ 1-50 knife is just getting run thru a machine (usually) to sharpen the blade. You can't realistically expect much time or effort put into sharpening with a *budget* knife. Too much machine time, hand time, or sharping steps would add to the cost.

Bark River I know sharpens by hand, but your at the $180-300 range now. I would expect a Chris Reeve knife to be sharp for $400+. I would expect a $1000+ custom to cut like a hot knife thru butta.
 
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I expect a serviceable edge. As I get older, I seem to be lowering my expectations, that way I don't get disappointed on a regular basis. My previous sentence applies to many things.

This a good example of why I encourage people to get sharpening stones and learn to sharpen freehand. Old school = cool. Plus, if you are a camper/hiker/outdoor person, you don't need to worry about carrying a fancy jig or electric doodad to sharpen your knives.
Haha definitely. Same here
 
Good god. These people write for a living? I’m no grammar nazi but damn. OP, do you read this junk often? I’d rather sit quietly staring off into space then read that crap.

The same reason I read their stuff is basically the same reason I listen to NPR...
I like to have a finger on the pulse of upside down world.
 
I like a knife to come sharp so I can just keep the factory edge touched up, but I can put a good edge on an old knife that finds it's way to me so it wouldn't be a huge deal with a new knife .
 
Sharpness expectations should be related to price too. A $ 1-50 knife is just getting run thru a machine (usually) to sharpen the blade. You can't realistically expect much time or effort put into sharpening with a *budget* knife.

^^^^^^^
FWIW, only 1 out of the 7 Benchmades I bought in the last 2 months didn't have a perfect edge. That knife was near perfect with a wire edge on about 1/4 of the blade. I bought it anyway because it was a first production #2/1200. I bought other brands too, and all of them would cut hairs. Most of them cost under $175.
 
I have never had a folding knife with an original edge I like or am satisfied with.
Typically, they come with overly polished and slightly rounded edges, judged from their performances.

I have been wondering why they don't put a better edge, like some high-end Japanese kitchen knife makers do.
My current guess is that they put that kind of edge because it is good enough for utility cutting and durable.

I sharpen all knives soon after I get them, so I don't really care the factory edge quality.
What bothers me the most is non-flat and uneven edge bevel.
 
I remember getting Old Timers at the store and sharpening them up when I got home. I got no problem putting an edge on myself. Takes a couple of moments and doesn't even interrupt the Mariners game.

What I find important in a knife is whether it will take an edge. If it will, I'll have it sharp in a jiffy.

If it won't, then that's where I become disappointed.
 
Unlike Reitwagen, I don't mind sounding like a condescending old phart.
Stop whining. You are a knife knut, sharpen the knife and go enjoy it.
I've been using knives since the late 60's. Pocket knives to modern knives, production knives don't come sharp. Usable yes, sharp no.

First define sharp, is sharp defined by my standards or your standards. Is sharp 20dps or 15 dps, 320 grit belt finish or mirror polished. Different steels and different uses require a different edge finish.

How is a maker supposed to know what you want.
Victorinox has been mentioned a couple times as being sharp out of the box. I disagree usable yes, sharp no.

As long as it has an even bevel and something close to 20 dps also known as usable.
I'll take it from there.
I'm a knife knut I sharpen.

Car analogy that might apply, I expect oil in my average production car. I don't expect expensive synthetic oil.
 
Sometimes when you just got a folder and your getting to know it, its safer when is not that sharp right of the bat.

Then there’s a liability factor. A razor sharp edge is dangerous.
You are far more likely to cut yourself with a dull blade.
A sharp knife is always safer than a dull one. With a sharp knife it takes less pressure to make the cut.
 
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