Outdoor survival blade under $60?

By "straight" he clarified that he meant not recurved, so "belly" as such is not an issue. The Becker Campanion, for example, has lots of "belly" but is "straight."

Communication is hard.
 
Thomas Linton said:
By "straight" he clarified that he meant not recurved, so "belly" as such is not an issue. The Becker Campanion, for example, has lots of "belly" but is "straight."

Communication is hard.
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Particularly, when, in the end, he opted for a blade that appears to be recurved. :confused:
 
marcinek said:
Ah. Going against everybody (but one's) suggestions. Since we answered some of your questions, seems only fair that you answer a couple of mine! :)

So....what about this knife makes you feel it will do what you want it to do? And what do you want it to do? I was never clear on that. What about a 6.75 inch hollow ground, recurve makes it a good"straight edge/no belly" bushcraft/survival/chopper/batonner to you? I'm genuinely curious, because I've never been quite able to get my head around this thread. :thumbup:
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The edge itself has no curve in it. All I want to do is baton though wood, be easy (kinda) to sharpen. I was just looking for advice on a good fixed blade based off your guyses opinion. I was already looking at the reaper you guys just sold me more on it. I'm still not a 100% that I'm Going to buy that specific blade it's just the closest to what I was looking for. The biker bush buddy looks good too.
 
youknowwhatimsayin said:
The edge itself has no curve in it. All I want to do is baton though wood, be easy (kinda) to sharpen. I was just looking for advice on a good fixed blade based off your guyses opinion. I was already looking at the reaper you guys just sold me more on it. I'm still not a 100% that I'm Going to buy that specific blade it's just the closest to what I was looking for. The biker bush buddy looks good too.
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Hey, man. No worries. There is no such thing as the perfect knife. The Buck looks like a serviceable knife, made in the USA :thumbup: I would not close any doors to carbon steel; lots of great blades you will miss out on. Outdoorsmen have used carbon for centuries...
 
For a little over $60, the Buck Short Nighthawk
BU0655BKSTP.jpg
 
I would go to condors website to see all your options, then buy from a paid dealer here on the forum. Also, would you consider carbon steel with coating?
 
30ZappHappy30 said:
I would go to condors website to see all your options, then buy from a paid dealer here on the forum. Also, would you consider carbon steel with coating?
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You know I'm on there site and they have a LOT that meets my specs but there all carbon! The only reason I don't want carbon steel is because I'm lazy and don't want to maintain it. But carry on with your point.
 
The ONLY thing necessary to maintain carbon steel is just wipe it down with some 3 in 1 oil after you use it. It takes about 10 seconds and you can buy oil for about 3 bucks. Did you see the varan?
 
dogstar said:
For a little over $60, the Buck Short Nighthawk
BU0655BKSTP.jpg
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theres one of the bigger models in the exchange right now for super cheap. these things are tough and they are 420C or HC which is 'stainless' but it's easy to sharpen. I had one before and batoned the crap out of it. they are very tough for the money, really comfortable handle.

also:
Condor bushlore, tavian, sub tavian, bushcraft basic, kephart, rodan
Gerber big rock
Schrade SCHF13
 
Binalith said:
theres one of the bigger models in the exchange right now for super cheap. these things are tough and they are 420C or HC which is 'stainless' but it's easy to sharpen. I had one before and batoned the crap out of it. they are very tough for the money, really comfortable handle.

also:
Condor bushlore, tavian, sub tavian, bushcraft basic, kephart, rodan
Gerber big rock
Schrade SCHF13
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Do they make a big rock xl? Like a boulder? (See what I did there:cool:)
 
In my experience, I find that the edge is the easiest part of the blade to keep rust-free -- regular use/lubing/sharpening of the edge seems to keep it free from problems. However, the sides and spine of the blade (which have much less contact with medium in actual use and, of course, are never sharpened) are more prone to staining/rusting. One solution is a coating, another is a forced patina.

Thomas Linton said:
Coating protects everything except the important part - the edge. But at least it increases resistance to cutting.
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The varan has an 8 inch blade which is a little bigger than your limit, but you also mentioned chopping and batoning. Also glad i got you thinking about carbon steel. :D
 
I do not own that knife in particular but i have had other boker magnum knives and I have been pretty disappointed. If I understand correctly, they are just cheap imported knives with boker stamped on them. Also there is no telling how the steel/heat treat is.
 
30ZappHappy30 said:
The ONLY thing necessary to maintain carbon steel is just wipe it down with some 3 in 1 oil after you use it. It takes about 10 seconds and you can buy oil for about 3 bucks. Did you see the varan?
Click to expand...

Or mineral oil. Which is cheaper and allows you to actually use your knife for food prep in these survival situations the OP is asking about.
 
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