Codger_64
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- Joined
- Oct 8, 2004
- Messages
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Paddle sizing is a very personal choice. A lot of variable are involved. I have four different paddle lengths myself, two of which I have come to use the most. One school of thought is to measure one to your armpit when standing. This doesn't make sense to me because people have different leg and torso lengths, thus when seated in the canoe, it doesn't matter how long your legs are. What matters is your torso length, seat to shoulder. So I sit, pit the grip on the seat (chair) between my legs and want the throat of the blade to start around my chin. But that is just a place to start. Your canoe seat height and paddling station width matter too. How far is it vertical from your butt to the water? How far out from center will you need to reach?
So the seated measure method is a good starting point, IMHO. I suggest that you buy a cheap "snake beater" (ABS blade, aluminum shaft, Tee or pear grip) Mohawk or Carslile paddle or two. Around $25-30. A stern paddler will likely need/want a shorter paddle since they have the narrowest paddling station. A bow paddler will want/need one a tad longer since that station is wider. A solo (center) paddler will want a longer paddle still since their station is typically wider still. Thus I have a "quiver" of cheap paddles which I choose from depending on the canoe I am paddling and my position. I only bought a more expensive laminated wood paddle in the length that suits my solo canoe and, it also works for stern station in my wider canoe when I tandem.
Chances are that what you are seeing is chalked gelcoat, not paint. You can buff it with car compound (white) after washing it well with mean green or the like. Then finish off with 303 Aerospace Protectant, applied lightly and wiped/buffed by hand. I don't suggest using car wax myself, though I hear some people do. Again though I would be interested in hearing what others suggest. My way is by no means the only way and not always the best.
So the seated measure method is a good starting point, IMHO. I suggest that you buy a cheap "snake beater" (ABS blade, aluminum shaft, Tee or pear grip) Mohawk or Carslile paddle or two. Around $25-30. A stern paddler will likely need/want a shorter paddle since they have the narrowest paddling station. A bow paddler will want/need one a tad longer since that station is wider. A solo (center) paddler will want a longer paddle still since their station is typically wider still. Thus I have a "quiver" of cheap paddles which I choose from depending on the canoe I am paddling and my position. I only bought a more expensive laminated wood paddle in the length that suits my solo canoe and, it also works for stern station in my wider canoe when I tandem.
What should I use on the hull?
Chances are that what you are seeing is chalked gelcoat, not paint. You can buff it with car compound (white) after washing it well with mean green or the like. Then finish off with 303 Aerospace Protectant, applied lightly and wiped/buffed by hand. I don't suggest using car wax myself, though I hear some people do. Again though I would be interested in hearing what others suggest. My way is by no means the only way and not always the best.
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