paper sharpening wheels - when your time is important to you

it all depends on the edge you're putting on the knife. since i'm putting a half convex on the d2 knife i'm making for jatmat i'll use the belt sander and finish up with the buffing wheel. for any v edge i always use the grit wheel and not the belt sander unless its my only option such as a really wide edge.
 
Hi Richard,

I got a paper wheel kit this week after reading your posts. I tried them today and I am impressed with the results. A 2 or 3 minute regrind and buffing got me the same edge that used to take me hours on a sharpmaker and leather strop. I haven't gotten the hang of the grit wheel yet and I ended up with an ugly looking bevel, but it's a cheap folder I decided to use as my learning platform.

Thank you for all the time you've saved me.

Dan
 
I just sharpened my first few knives on my wheels. First one was a Chicom cheapie from Harbor Freight. It was too soft to take a good edge. I sharpened my dad's old slipjoint and got it cutting newspaper in a few minutes! I'm going to try a different technique tomorrow and see if I get better results. I got one of our kitchen knives cutting newspaper. I'm going to practice on some kitchen knives before moving on to my good folders. These wheels are great!
 
for the beginners i suggest using a hack saw blade until you get good at using the grit wheel. the best method is how i sharpen with the wheel rotating to me and with the blade held around the 1:00 position with the edge facing me. remember to NEVER go into the wheel edge first or you'll have a knife flying who knows where.
 
One more time Richard, Where do these wheels come from?

I got a deal going where I might get a set sent to me, but I gotta knhow from where!
 
Yes, My arbor is 5/8" There is a red plastic bushing in the holes that accommodates the 1/2" arbor. Just remove it and it fits the 5/8" arbor fine.
 
I just bought new safety glasses and plan on trying Richard's method next week. Being able to actually see the burr form is going to save lots of steel and really help me dial in my feel for the angle I'm putting on the blade. It sure will beat looking straight down at the blade and hoping for the best, though that technique still gets me tree topping edges. I really want that angle control and to avoid those big tin foil burrs I form when I get sloppy.

Mike
 
i'm suprised more guys arent trying my method of sharpening. i dont think i could have sharpened the 241 folders in the short ammount of time any other way. there were some single blade folders but most were 2&3 blade folders.
 
richard j said:
i'm suprised more guys arent trying my method of sharpening. i dont think i could have sharpened the 241 folders in the short ammount of time any other way. there were some single blade folders but most were 2&3 blade folders.
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I've tried both ways....edge facing towards me and edge facing away. I prefer to have the edge facing towards as richard has said, being able to see the burr form is an advantage on knowing when to stop and check your progress.

This also is nothing new but be careful not to turn the edge in to the wheel. I caught the tip of small slip joint last night and it went flying...scared the poop out of me.
 
morrowj_98 said:
I've tried both ways....edge facing towards me and edge facing away. I prefer to have the edge facing towards as richard has said, being able to see the burr form is an advantage on knowing when to stop and check your progress.

This also is nothing new but be careful not to turn the edge in to the wheel. I caught the tip of small slip joint last night and it went flying...scared the poop out of me.
Click to expand...

Just to clarify my post....I did not have the edge going in to the wheel. I was sharpening a small slip joint with the edge facing me. I had made a pass on the wheel. I picked the knife up off the wheel and as I was moving the knife above the wheel I got distracted, looked away and lowered the knife in to the wheel. The wheel caught the spine of the blade and sent it flying.
 
I've been practicing and I like the wheels turning away technique. I tried Richard's way and can't get used to holding my arms over the grinder. When I do it that way, my hands aren't steady enough to hold an angle. I've got the wheels spinning away and I stand and look down on the knife and hold it about 1 o'clock.

Now I just wanted to make sure I'm doing this right. When you raise a burr on one side and switch to the next, is your original burr removed?
 
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