paper sharpening wheels - when your time is important to you

I just finished putting my rat rc-4,5, and izula to the paper wheels. I am very pleased with the result! I wanna thank richard j for opening my eyes to what I believe is the best sharpening system out there :)

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Hey all, this paper wheel thing sounds interesting, I'm skimming through this long thread and I'm still a bit unclear on exactly what the paper wheel is. Is it like using a felt/cloth buffing wheel? How/why is it better?

Are there any links to pics, or vids that show just what this is, and how it works?

Thanks in advance. :)
 
All those questions are answered on this thread. The wheels are made of compressed paper. One has grit and the other is used for buffing. It will get'em sharp.
 
panch0 said:
All those questions are answered on this thread. The wheels are made of compressed paper. One has grit and the other is used for buffing. It will get'em sharp.
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Sounds cool, call me lazy but I started reading through this thread and realized it'd take me all day to get through all of it, and I couldn't find any pics or vids that would make understanding much more simple. (a pictures worth a thousand words, and all that)

Anyway, I'm always game for learning better ways to sharpen. :)
 
BryFry said:
Sounds cool, call me lazy but I started reading through this thread and realized it'd take me all day to get through all of it, and I couldn't find any pics or vids that would make understanding much more simple. (a pictures worth a thousand words, and all that)

Anyway, I'm always game for learning better ways to sharpen. :)
Click to expand...

Here's a pic of the set up.

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Hey Richard,

I want to thank you for this thread. I bought some paper wheels and am learning how to use them properly. Do you only use the rouge on your slotted wheel? I was curious if there are finer compounds whose scratch pattern will be finer than the rouge supplied with the wheels.

Getting and maintaining a consistent bevel angle seems to be my main skill to learn. I turned a hacksaw blade into a razor and was impressed by how well it turned out. Thanks again.

Bill
 
the rouge is for the slotted wheel only and the wax is for the abrasive wheel. i have used red rouge but i didnt notice any difference. more passes across the buffing wheel should polish the edge more. it takes practice to keep hte same angle. which way do you have your wheels rotating? to you or away from you?
 
after getting an email from a member who is having problems getting enough grit applied to his abrasive wheel, i started looking for a supplier of loose abrasive grit but in a larger grit size other than what is supplied with the wheels. a slightly larger grit might work better but i havent had any luck finding any suppliers that sells in small quantities. (50# bags for around $18. are the only size i have found)
 
Hi Richard,

I have the wheels turning toward me, working at or below the midpoint of the wheel. Edge faces down, of course. Interesting that the red rouge seemed no different than the white. Is it meant to be finer than the white?

As I learn the wheels, I have been using a 100x pocket scope to see what is going on at the edge, and it is very instructive. I am using 10" wheels on an 8" HF buffer. It starts a lot better if I spin the wheels by hand right before I switch it on. It makes me feel like an early aviator. "Clear!"

Bill
 
Interesting that the red rouge seemed no different than the white. Is it meant to be finer than the white?
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Red is not even meant for use on ferrous metals and is technically too soft to be effective. If you want a finer compound then chromium oxide at 0.5 microns would be the next step. This link tells you a little more about it http://www.hobbytool.com/jewelers-rouge.htm
 
i have used red to buff a blade that i was putting a mirror finish on. it worked better than white rouge but it got all over the place.
 
Well my grit wheel wore out. I was able to see the lines of the layers of paper compressed together. So I followed the directions last night and tried it out tonight. It worked just like new. It was easier than I thought and I still have a whole bunch of the grit powder left.
 
Searched the thread and couldn't find the info I needed. I am looking at a 1/2 HP motor. But I managed to find one that turns at 1000 rpm. I like that better because I want a nice slow turn. It has a 1/2" by 3&1/2" shaft. Where might a guy find the best arbor attachment. I want a really durable solid one. Thanks in advance.
 
i have a boker ceramic knife that was sent to me without any kind of an edge. after about 10 minutes with a small diamond wheel i now have a working edge on the blade. i'll try putting it on the abrasive wheel and see what happens. if it works i'll make a post here.
 
infi-del, i have an arbor that will fit your motor but its not very long. there is a member who works at a machine shop that might be able to make you one. i'll ask him for you.
 
richard j said:
after getting an email from a member who is having problems getting enough grit applied to his abrasive wheel, i started looking for a supplier of loose abrasive grit but in a larger grit size other than what is supplied with the wheels. a slightly larger grit might work better but i havent had any luck finding any suppliers that sells in small quantities. (50# bags for around $18. are the only size i have found)
Click to expand...

I came across this at Lee Valley, hope it helps. http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=33017&cat=1,43072

I love my paper wheels. Thanks for the recommendation.:thumbup:
 
infi-del, that arbor will work just fine. i think the grit is 320. i think a 280 grit would work better when it comes to coating the wheels. it would also cut faster on harder steels.
 
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