paper sharpening wheels - when your time is important to you

if anyone breaks the tip off a knife and you want to form a new tip, just work back a little ways past the belly to form a new tip. there is no need to remove metal from the entire blade. when the new tip is formed, blend the rest of the edge to match. if its a folder, make sure the tip is not sticking up out of the frame. if it is, grind a little off the kick to lower the tip back into the frame. take a small ammount off at a time until the tip drops back into the frame.
 
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Richard, this is a great thread...thanks ! Maybe I am blind but I can't seem to find a source for the paper wheels you are referring to.....sounds like they are the solution to my sharpening needs...thanks again
 
These paper wheels seem to be a good idea but what do you do if you're in the field and your knife needs sharpening? Can you establish a set degreed edge on the blade with the wheel that you can match with a stone or other sharpener in the field? 30º on the wheel and 30º on the stone. I guess you could carry a spare knife so as not to have to sharpen in the field but that isn't practical at all times. Hope this made sense.
 
Modoc ED said:
These paper wheels seem to be a good idea but what do you do if you're in the field and your knife needs sharpening? Can you establish a set degreed edge on the blade with the wheel that you can match with a stone or other sharpener in the field? 30º on the wheel and 30º on the stone. I guess you could carry a spare knife so as not to have to sharpen in the field but that isn't practical at all times. Hope this made sense.
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I mostly use the wheels when I am home. I carry DMT diafolds when I'm out and about. The edge you get from using the wheels isn't anything magical. You just get a high degree of sharpness in a short time. I don't really get all worked up with exact angles. I work the edge until I get a burr then progress through my DMT diafolds. If you know how to hand sharpen, you'll have no trouble with a knife that was initially sharpened on the wheels.
 
Modoc ED said:
These paper wheels seem to be a good idea but what do you do if you're in the field and your knife needs sharpening? Can you establish a set degreed edge on the blade with the wheel that you can match with a stone or other sharpener in the field? 30º on the wheel and 30º on the stone. I guess you could carry a spare knife so as not to have to sharpen in the field but that isn't practical at all times. Hope this made sense.
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Bring a small fine DMT stone and touch up in the field. Fix whatever when you get home.
 
Modoc ED said:
Ok. I just might have to give these paper wheels a try. Thanks.
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i would say you should try out the wheels. i tried them months ago and am in love with them after the learning curve,that is. imo its the best investment ive made due to this forum.
 
bkzk100 said:
i would say you should try out the wheels. i tried them months ago and am in love with them after the learning curve,that is. imo its the best investment ive made due to this forum.
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But the learning curve is mostly about two things. (1) Learning where on the wheel to hold the knife for your desired angle; (2) Learning the wrist movement required towards the tip of the knife. Once you get those down it's pretty easy to get quality results. This has been my experience.
 
How's recurves with the wheels? I sold all my recurves since they couldn't be done on my Edgepro. I would imagine it shouldn't be that hard, but I've been wrong about things before. :)
 
Splat said:
How's recurves with the wheels? I sold all my recurves since they couldn't be done on my Edgepro. I would imagine it shouldn't be that hard, but I've been wrong about things before. :)
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You can do recurves on the EdgePro... most with the stock stones without any issue. (Just knock the sharp edge off the side.) If it's a deep curve, EP sells a more narrow stone that works.

But since this is the Wheels thread, you can also do them on the Wheels. Most can be done on the standard wheels. They also have a narrow wheel that works well. But on the standard wheel, you just work it near the edge of the wheel. Just make sure you don't push the recurve into the edge of the wheel, or it will gouge it. But it's not hard.

cbw
 
I am looking to buy two motors 10" 1/2 HP for a paper wheel set up, speed on the motors is still up in the air at this point. ANY HELP IDEAS OR?
CLIFF
 
Splat said:
How's recurves with the wheels? I sold all my recurves since they couldn't be done on my Edgepro. I would imagine it shouldn't be that hard, but I've been wrong about things before. :)
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Nobody ever told me I couldn't do recurves with an EdgePro, so I went ahead and did them. :eek:
Been doing them for years with no problems.
Some of the Indonesian Kris that I have, with snaky blades and U-turn recurves take a thinner stone mounted onto a stone blank, but that's about the only ones I used different stones for. Are paper wheels more narrow than EdgePro stones?


Stitchawl
 
Splat said:
How's recurves with the wheels? I sold all my recurves since they couldn't be done on my Edgepro. I would imagine it shouldn't be that hard, but I've been wrong about things before. :)
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Paper wheels work wonderfully on recurves. I rounded off 1/4 of an inch on the outside of each wheel. Just put a radius on the edge. Sharpen and buff on the rounded edge. Works like a charm. :thumbup:

If you don't want to go thru that, the wheels can be ordered in 1/4" width. Perfect for recurves.
 
JCL said:
I am looking to buy two motors 10" 1/2 HP for a paper wheel set up, speed on the motors is still up in the air at this point. ANY HELP IDEAS OR?
CLIFF
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Why 2 motors? It'd be cheaper to just get a cheap 6" grinder off Ebay or a garage sale. Take the stones off and put your wheels on. Done. My grinder is variable speed. The slowest speed is 2000rpm and I haven't burned up any of my blades yet. Richard_J will pro'lly chime in with more help on this. Myself, I wouldn't go faster than 2500rpm, though the wheels' packaging recommends a 3000-3600rpm range.
 
SPXTrader said:
Paper wheels work wonderfully on recurves. I rounded off 1/4 of an inch on the outside of each wheel. Just put a radius on the edge. Sharpen and buff on the rounded edge. Works like a charm. :thumbup:

If you don't want to go thru that, the wheels can be ordered in 1/4" width. Perfect for recurves.
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I use the 1/4 inch wheels for recurves as well. They work well.
 
i have used nothing but a 1/2 hp motor that runs 1725 rpm. i can put my 8" or 10" wheel on and the motor runs each one just fine. i even run my new 1 1/4" wide 10" wheel on the same 1/2 hp motor.
 
since i use a single shaft motor to run my wheels on, i put some of the wax inside the arbor holes on wheels so they slide on and off easliy.

never tighten up either wheel as if it were a stone wheel. finger tight is plenty since the nut tends to tighten up when the motor is started anyways.
 
I've been seeing a lot of Paper Wheel sig lines lately. Is the Paper Wheel mafia running amok? ;)
 
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