paper sharpening wheels - when your time is important to you

Rayzcane said:
RoMo asked about reconditioning the wheels. This video shows the process
one guy uses: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LKEb6VoKLo8
Click to expand...

Thanks so much. That gives me a better idea.
Does anyone out there have a good explanation on the amount of wax to apply initially? I think that is where I messed up the first time. It still appears that I have a lot of wax on my wheel. I'm going to take a wire brush, as Richard j suggested and see what happens. Is there any way to describe how to know when there is enough grit still on the wheel, and when it's time to just clean the wheel and start over.

Thanks to all,

Romo
 
that's me in again the reconditioning video- i redressed the wheel when i started getting bare spots on the wheel and the corners started rounding off. as for the wax amount... im not sure of a definite amount to apply, i just make sure im using plenty as i try to remove as little metal as possible. if i see a spark i add wax. not sure if that's "correct" or not but i havent had any problems either.
 
I have read all 52 pages of this informative thread. Many thanks to Richard and others. I bought the 8"
set from WoodCraft. I got the 6" Porter-Cable grinder from Lowe's. It had a bad bearing that caused
the machine to "scream" when running. I just now returned it and bought this ugly orange 6" buffer
from Harbor Freight. It is this one: http://www.harborfreight.com/6-inch-buffer-94393.html
 
With one small modification, the HF buffer is IDEAL for my purposes. Here is the link again:
http://www.harborfreight.com/6-inch-buffer-94393.html

I choose to operate the buffer with the wheels turning away from me. If you simply flip the unit
around, the wheels turn away but the power cord comes out the front. And, the power-switch is
in the back.

I tilted the unit on its side and removed the four screws from the bottom of the base. Then I
removed the two screws securing the base to the motor. Then I flipped the base 180 degrees
and reassembled the unit. Now, the wheels turn away from me and the power cord is in the back.
And, the power-switch is in the front. This is the perfect setup for me.
 
KC8QVO, I spent last night getting the system together. Tonight I will apply the wax and rouge. Since the
wheels are spinning away from me, I plan to place the knife somewhere between 11 o'clock and noon. I
know it will take practice. My wife has donated a few "sacrificial" knives to the cause.....

I am an avid pool player, so am familiar with various angles. I also teach guitar. I believe the learning curve
will be a short one. I'll let you know.
 
Voodoosix said:
that's me in again the reconditioning video- i redressed the wheel when i started getting bare spots on the wheel and the corners started rounding off. as for the wax amount... im not sure of a definite amount to apply, i just make sure im using plenty as i try to remove as little metal as possible. if i see a spark i add wax. not sure if that's "correct" or not but i havent had any problems either.
Click to expand...

Thanks so much for that video! I have seen some more of yours, and they are on the money. Great lighting and great, great angles. That, in my opinion, is where a lot of people mess up.
I do have another question for you. How much work was left after you finished the video. What I mean is, how much sanding and cleaning was need to finish the wheels, to your standard? Did the glue hold the grit on? Would you use the same glue again?

Again, thanks to everyone on this site for all of your time and effort.

RoMo
 
RoMo said:
How much work was left after you finished the video. What I mean is, how much sanding and cleaning was need to finish the wheels, to your standard? Did the glue hold the grit on? Would you use the same glue again?

Again, thanks to everyone on this site for all of your time and effort.

RoMo
Click to expand...

i just held the sanding block to it for maybe a second or two, not much at all- basically only knocking off any high spots. the glue holds up fine, if anything i used a little too much in the video.
 
Rayzcane said:
Since the wheels are spinning away from me, I plan to place the knife somewhere between 11 o'clock and noon. I
know it will take practice.
Click to expand...

Whatever you do, don't angle the edge in to the rotating wheels, always away. If you are on the top of the wheels this means that the edge/wheel contact area will be hidden by the knife blade and the wheel rotating trailing off the edge, away from you. This is why I have the wheel rotating towards me on the top - I can see where the edge hits the wheel.
 
On knife placement on top, something that helps me out:

On my wheels I have several degrees lines marked out, like in the instructions.
I use a Harbor Freight so its easy to see and mark.
I take the wheel , a level, and set the wheel top dead center level.
Straight edge to the 0 degree on top of the Housing and draw a line with a sharpie.
I drop another at 10, 15, 20 all the way across the housing.

Now, just makes it easier and quicker lining up and knowing exactly where I am, even on a long blade.
Helps me with multi-bevels as well.
 
Attached is a template for marking the most common angles on the paper wheels.
I've set it up for both choices of wheel rotation, either clockwise or counter clockwise.

30 degrees is exactly at 11:00 o'clock (or 1:00 o'clock).
15 degrees is exactly at 11:30 o'clock (or 12:30 o'clock).

Markings are also included for 20 and 25 degrees.

I can't see how to include the .jpg file. If anyone would like a copy
PM me. Or if you have a place to host the file, let me know.
 
KC8QVO said:
Rayzcane - where do you hold your knife? Below the wheels? How to you gauge the angle?
Click to expand...

Figuring out how to guage the angle was a real breakthrough for me. On the surface, it seems almost impossible. But, the
solution is simple! THERE IS NO ANGLE!!! The blade is held completely flat.... In other words the blade is held parallel to the
ground. The correct angle is determined by where the blade contacts the wheel.
 
Richard, I'm sending my black paramilitary 2 you for putting on a convex edge, reply back to my email when you see it.
 
I have searched this thread but can not find any information on the "wax" used on the grit wheel. Is it beeswax or is it just paraffin wax or something similar. I hate to order from a supplier due to the shipping cost, if I can obtain locally. Thanks for any information you can pass on.
 
OHALLUM said:
I have searched this thread but can not find any information on the "wax" used on the grit wheel. Is it beeswax or is it just paraffin wax or something similar. I hate to order from a supplier due to the shipping cost, if I can obtain locally. Thanks for any information you can pass on.
Click to expand...

Don't quote me but as its yellow, its more likely bee's than paraffin. Paraffin is white.
I have loads of wax of all types ... don't ask me why, I do a lot of odd finishing and make candles ... but it is most like a bees wax, oily type base. It lasts so long and you use so little I wouldn't sweat it.
Feels like a floor's paste wax like Johnson's to me, a bit stiffer? I'll cross that bridge when I get there I figure. If it is, I got 6 tubes of Johnson's :)
 
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