paper sharpening wheels - when your time is important to you

kwackster said:
- Repairing the point of the knife (about 2 mm was broken off) was done on the Tormek by grinding the back of the blade until there was a new point.
- Flattening the old edge was also done on the Tormek (by grinding off about 1/10th of a mm on the side of the stone.
- Sharpening to burr was done exclusively on the 15 micron Paper Wheel.
- Deburring was done exclusively on the 0.25 micron Paper Wheel.
- Rounding the heel of the knife was again done on the Tormek (by grinding off a tiny bit of steel on the side of the stone.)
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You made/make a custom Tormek support bracket for edge-trailing sharpening On the tormek yes? I can only assume that you use a similar support for the paper wheels sharpening you do, so that you can use a tormek knife jig to get consistently precise bevels. Do you predominately only do edge-trailing sharpening. Why did Tormek not make such a support?

http://knifegrinders.com.au/05Equipment.htm
 
Some time ago i did indeed make a small knife rest for my Tormek, but i use it for edge-leading sharpening only.
My guess is that sometime in the future Tormek will recognize the usefullness of this accessory and start producing one of their own.

The work on the Takamura R2 gyuto was all done freehand (no jigs), both on Tormek and on Paper Wheels.
All the reprofiling/sharpening/deburring on my Paper Wheels i do freehand, no jigs or lasers involved.

For sharpening in general i use both edge-trailing and edge-leading, whatever i think works best in that specific situation.
On Paper Wheels it's obviously only edge-trailing.
 
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kwackster said:
Some time ago i did indeed make a small knife rest for my Tormek, but i use it for edge-leading sharpening only.
My guess is that sometime in the future Tormek will recognize the usefullness of this accessory and start producing one of their own.

The work on the Takamura R2 gyuto was all done freehand (no jigs), both on Tormek and on Paper Wheels.
All the reprofiling/sharpening/deburring on my Paper Wheels i do freehand, no jigs or lasers involved.

For sharpening in general i use both edge-trailing and edge-leading, whatever i think works best in that specific situation.
On Paper Wheels it's obviously only edge-trailing.
Click to expand...

In regards to the knife rest you made for the Tormek, you say that you used it for edge-leading only. That is the way Tormek's are typically setup, so it must have been something different than what Tormek supplies.
I mistakenly got you confused with the user who is "Knife Grinders" wootzblade, sorry. On his website he shows a bracket he made for edge-trailing sharpening on the Tormek, and I initially was mistaking you for him. Sorry I'm new here.
 
oceanrider said:
I have an old Jet 10” wet sharpener that I have had for many years and it is time to replace. I am wanting to get a paper wheel setup mainly for speed and it seems a very sharp edge after acquiring the skill to use it. I will need both the wheels and a dedicated bench polisher/buffer.

From reading A bit of this thread I see that some use the Razor Sharp Edgemaking wheel set. Some use the wheel sets from Grizzly. Is there a difference in quality that is worthy of the price difference?

Regarding the bench grinder/polisher. On this site, linked below, that sells the Razor Sharp Edgemaking they sell what looks like the Harbor Freight 6” buffer https://sharpeningmadeeasy.com/paper.htm. What is the best speed for paper wheels? Would a variable speed bench polisher be of any use. From what I read it is best to have 3000-3600. I would assume that 6” Central Machinery unit from Harbor Freight would have less rpm with 8” wheels.
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Update here, in regards to my search for a Bench Polisher for a Paper Wheel setup. I went to Harbor Freight and looked at the 6" Central Machinery Buffer they have that I linked above. It has a 1/2" arbor. I see the wheels can accept both a 1/2" or 5/8" with use of the bushing, which I assume is just a plastic insert into the wheel arbor hole. I didn't pick it up as I'm going to keep reading up a bit first before I make the bench polisher/buffer purchase. Would using a polisher/buffer with 5/8" arbor be of any benefit? I know that most likely the speed would be greater and probably closer to the 3600 upper end recommendation.

Would there be any benefit in having an 8" Variable Speed Polisher/Buffer that goes up to 3600? How important is RPM speed of the wheels for either the gritted wheel or the slotted wheel?
 
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Sharpeners in the USA that wrote to me speak well of the Palmgren-9682107 8” variable speed grinder.
Some use 8" half-speed Rikon grinder.
 
wootzblade said:
Sharpeners in the USA that wrote to me speak well of the Palmgren-9682107 8” variable speed grinder.
Some use 8" half-speed Rikon grinder.
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Does it have to be a grinder or any variable speed motor will do the job well? What is targeted RPM?
 
sackman said:
Yes, I understand that you rotate the blade as you move up the belly toward the tip. My question was does the hold angle of the blade remain constant? Or, like on stones, do you increase the angle as you get toward the tip?
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In what was described above (which is easiest to me to keep accurate), you are maintaining the blade on the same plane and as shown rotating the knife to keep the edge perpendicular to the wheel, which can appear to be lifting the handle if the plain you are maintaining isn't level.
There is another method used by some in which you do lift the handle and in this situation you are keeping the spine of the knife perpendicular to the wheel. BUCK KNIVES uses this method, you can tell by looking at the grind marks on the edge, they continuously stay the same direction and are not perpendicular to the edge after it gets to the belly and tip.
 
oceanrider said:
What is the best speed for paper wheels? Would a variable speed bench polisher be of any use. From what I read it is best to have 3000-3600. I would assume that 6” Central Machinery unit from Harbor Freight would have less rpm with 8” wheels.
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I realize this is a few months late, but just incase someone else isn't sure. No matter what size wheel you put on the grinder/polisher the RPM's will not change. What will change is the surface speed the bigger the wheel the faster the surface speed.
 
For people using diamond compounds on Paper Wheels like i do; give Nano-Oil 5 weight a try.
I have been using this oil exclusively for quite a few years now, and so far it's the best i've come across.
It remains speculation if that is because of the special "fullerene" additives or something else entirely, but it seems to make the diamond particles cut cleaner than anything else i've experimented with.
Certain steels like ZDP-189 and S35VN come off the 15 micron diamond compound wheel completely burr-free and ready to use, which is something i've never been able to do with any other oil type.
 
Neither.
In the past i've bought several "naked" Paper Wheels and charged each one with a combination of diamond paste & oil.
A while ago i also replaced the SiC grit on my old grinding Wheel for diamond grit (still experimental)
 
kwackster said:
Neither.
In the past i've bought several "naked" Paper Wheels and charged each one with a combination of diamond paste & oil.
A while ago i also replaced the SiC grit on my old grinding Wheel for diamond grit (still experimental)
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How do you charge the wheels with the compound?
 
On page 93 in post #1847 i wrote down how i do things.
It's not overly complicated, just make sure you wash that finger before and after, :D
 
I'm looking into getting some paper wheels, and a couple of questions:

1. How is tip sharpness off the wheel? 90% of my cutting is done with the very tip of the knife against things like cling film.

2. Can you maintain the edge (light touchups) using just the buffing wheel? Or do you need to use the coarse wheel every time?

3. Could the buffing wheel be used for burr removal / polish work after using a regular sharpener? IE sharpen on a Sharpmaker or Work Sharp preicsion adjust, then knock off the burr with the polishing wheel.
 
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